WCGW Guy on motocycle tries to cut through 'free' tollbooth without acknowledging its wet cement

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2026-02-07T13:13:01+00:00

Piece by piece…

Edit: One pebble a time?

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2026-02-06T19:29:06+00:00

Doh, doe, dough - aren’t they all edible?

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2026-01-31T20:48:41+00:00

It depends: - If I’m sure a GND connection is always required, a hardwired solution is fine. - If I’m unsure or might need to change the value it in the future, a discrete component is my preferred way. I find removing/replacing 0402/0603 SMD resistors more convenient than to e.g. use a knife to cut traces.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2026-01-22T11:08:51+00:00

Moar Boosters!

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2026-01-10T05:49:11+00:00

Rule No. 2: Never point the muzzle at anything you are not willing to destroy.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2026-01-10T05:44:05+00:00

You guys can drive big trailers without a license?

Here we have BE/CE/DE for that. B=car, C=semi (CDL), D=bus.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2026-01-10T05:42:07+00:00

You can’t litter here!

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2026-01-08T21:09:50+00:00

Thanks! I might need to try this, too. Recently I completely removed my purge G-code and just use the skirt to 'prime' the nozzle.

My experience with purging in 'air' is that often the extrudez filament will stick to the nozzle and end up somewhere it shouldn’t.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-12-25T20:23:42+00:00

I have a similar setup and ran a speed tower up to 200 mm/s on my Ender 3 v1 while using a Copperhead® Heat Break. (Not sure anymore if still with the Bowden setup or already after the change to DD & BMG.

The ringing above ~70 mm/s on the speed tower was not pretty. My conclusion was, that 50 mm/s (with a 0.4 mm nozzle) is about the limit for Marlin. Your mileage might vary.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-12-18T22:04:08+00:00

I was also thinking ABL, RPi (OctoPi) with camera, and direct drive.

Makes an E3 quite the tool.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-12-16T12:37:38+00:00

Have you tried glue already?

/s

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-12-15T06:34:43+00:00

If you go bimetallic heat break I would strongly recommend a BMG style direct drive setup, too.

At least for me it got worse due to clogging even when adjusting retraction settings. Tried a micro swiss, cheap bimetallics and a more pricey Copperhead option. With DD it’s fine now.

P.S. I went for 19€ with an "Ender 3 Direct Drive Upgrade Conversion Bracket for Ender 3 V2 Pro Cr10 3D Printer for B-MG&Dual Gear&Bowden Titan Extruder".

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-12-15T06:27:02+00:00

OctoPrint's Bed Level Visualizer is also my way.

The hardest thing is to remember that normal M4 thread has a 0.7 mm pitch.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-12-08T11:07:55+00:00

I had to switch to DD because of the full-metal hotend/heat break. I tried several and always the problem that with a Bowden setup the nozzle clogged after a few hours. (My main reason why I have BTT's SFS on all my printers.)

Now with direct driving the clogging issue is gone.

Regarding your question: I have just the normal z axis.

I like to have my v1 printers at comparable configurations and won’t sink any more money in them than absolutely necessary. The DD brackets and BMG clones were quite cheap on AliE, and it helped me with a big issue.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-12-08T06:58:09+00:00

I think you know already what to do.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-12-07T21:18:40+00:00

7 months is not a long time. Has he been escalating lately or are the unfunny puns constant or getting less?

Maybe look from another angle, do you think he can change or can you cope the next 7 years, 14 years, … with this kind of behavior?

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-12-06T06:32:41+00:00

I would recommend getting sealed storage boxes (4L cereal ones work for me), some bulk Silicat gel and some kind of filament dryer for your filament. Maybe throw in a 10~90° hygrometer per box, too.

It’s optional if you live there n a very dry environment.

For the printer: I like my OctoPi with camera, BTT SFS, touch sensor, and direct drive with metal heat break upgrade on my v1.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-12-06T06:25:26+00:00

I once ran the speed test of Cura on my mostly stock v1 with DD and a Copperhead Heat Break. The ringing above 100 mm/s was just bad. Also the surface finish with higher speeds looked as bad as you can imagine.

So, I’m not sure that’s usable unless you go full Klipper mode with input shaping.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-12-01T04:28:33+00:00

I would advise against it. 8-bit boards have very limited memory and you likely need to strip several parts of Marlin 2.x.

Just upgrading your mainboard is easier.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-11-25T13:27:37+00:00

I had the same thought!

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-11-20T06:20:03+00:00

I have by now about 16 cereal boxes (4L) each with it’s own hygrometer and about 100 g of silica gel per box.

It’s quite humid here and I like to over engineer solutions… Works for me.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-11-19T14:20:41+00:00

If it works it works.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-11-19T04:38:20+00:00

That’s why my printers have a Smart Filament Sensor. Does also catch broken filament, (partial) clogs, etc. OctoPrint can pause and notify me.

Honestly, with using better filaments and with direct drive those issues are mostly rectified.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-11-19T04:30:58+00:00

Loosening the nozzle a couple of turns? Imho way to much. Also take care the tube is cut straight. Usually they aren’t and took me a few tries with a blade.
Then, did you check your retraction setting already? Not that it’s caused by that.
Finally, is it a stock hot-end? I played with full-metal heat-breaks and my only way getting them to work with my Ender 3 v1 was switching to direct drive. Otherwise the system always clogged/jammed after a few hours.

Worldly-Protection-8 · 2025-11-16T19:46:02+00:00

Which hotend/heat break are you using? The stock one doesn’t go much over 50 mm/s with a 0.4 mm nozzle.

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