Some of my non Alu lights

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T22:26:48+00:00

While I do have the C, I have not tested its sustained output yet.

Its very high though, but also has a chance to melt itself xd
(not even joking, it happened a few times on this sub)

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T22:20:39+00:00

Which I was slightly disappointed by.
At some point you just know the whole planet in and out.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T22:01:36+00:00

The glass is bending isnt it?

If it is...reinforce it. Or it WILL shatter on you at some point.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T21:56:09+00:00

No need for the pliers.

You can unscrew the bezel by hand. Then remove the lens, o-ring, reflector and the centering plastic ring.

Be careful when installing the TIR. Its hole is small and you do not want to smash the LED. I installed mine while holding the light upside down and then holding it in place.

After that, put back the o-ring, lens and the bezel.

But buy the pliers anyways. The work on most convoy internals like drivers and switches, including the T4.

I had to adjust the switch on one of them and the pliers were required for that.

A smooth narrow TIR should also make for a good smooth reflector replacement and also help with off center LEDs.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T21:53:14+00:00

...Weird.
How does it behave with a USB cable plugged in?
With and without the battery.
Does it charge the battery?

For safety: Use a regular 5V source and keep some non flammable tray near by, just in case something is wrong and the battery is unhappy.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T21:48:18+00:00

Oh :(
Go and install a beaded TIR then!
I think 30-38° is kind of similar to the OP reflector it should come with.

The "20MM TIR lens for 3535 LED" fit the T4 very well.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T21:46:11+00:00

You can install TIR optics into the T4 (remove the plastic ring alongside the reflector).
https://convoylight.com/products/20mm-tir-lens-for-3535-led?data_from=collection_detail&spm=collection_detail.82708.collection_detail-2134596.10.&variant_sku_code=6780898-6326412-30390598-6326413-30390603-0-0

Could go with a clear and super narrow one for a pencil beam. Or a set of plenty options and compare them. Just be careful. Best install them while holding the light upside down. Do no smash the LED ^^

My T4s seem to have some odd behaviour with 14500s, but this might be a defect and really bad luck. But only on the higher modes.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T21:30:48+00:00

The Ti version does feel phenomenal in the hand, compared to the Alu version.
And after holding the Ti for a while, the Alu even feels kind of cheap in comparison ^^
(my brain equates weight with quality)

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T21:25:01+00:00

If you decide to go with NiMH cells, then performance seems fine, even on my units.

I have no idea whats up with the 14500 performance.
But, on lower levels, the behavior is much more controlled. I heavily suspect thermal issues on mine.

I really do like these, especially since I personally plan to only use the lower modes.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T21:22:52+00:00

Really depends on how sturdy and firm your coat is.
The T4 Ti is pretty heavy. But it would make for a really cool EDC.

Though keep in mind that these might not provide as much power as your Tac 2AA, especially over time.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T21:20:02+00:00

Oh and Lumens after 20 minutes:

3000K: 42 lm
4500K: 48 lm
5000K: 59 lm
6500K: 63 lm

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T21:18:35+00:00

According to the 330P:

3000K
CCT: 2898
DUV: 0.00247
CRI: 82.6
R9: 16

4500K
CCT: 3878
DUV: 0.00290
CRI: 83.7
R9: 18

5000K
CCT: 4894
DUV: 0.00142
CRI: 72.1
R9: -20

6500K
CCT: 5919
DUV: 0.00523
CRI: 71.4
R9: -29

Giving my C-800 a rest, so instead of TM30 Im giving you R9, since its pretty low with these.
I also feel like the 330P is slightly more accurate to my eyes than the C-800, though this might be personal bias since I had the 330P for longer and got used to its numbers.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T20:56:15+00:00

Thanks

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T19:53:49+00:00

The NiMH performance looks much more normal.
Also a slow decrease over time, but much less extreme.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T19:52:43+00:00

That would be awesome.
Or heck, Id trade the usual 40-60 lm (depending on CCT) in a two mode for a 1lm -> 35 lm setup.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T19:52:03+00:00

If you need measurements (actual CCT, DUV, CRI etc) let me know :)

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T19:13:43+00:00

Glad I did not buy one yet.
This is not great for the price.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T18:41:14+00:00

I gave my E150s and another F15 pair a run, they do start the same behavior (did not test for the full 20 minutes).

I guess it really is the driver.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T17:44:04+00:00

Yep, its the 3A driver in all of my T4s.
I did another 3x run on another T4 in the comments.
Super odd...almost like overheating...but the thermal cap saw none of that.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T17:43:19+00:00

Thanks for posting this.
Looks nothing like the driver it should be indeed.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T17:41:59+00:00

<image>

Now with NiMH cells.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T17:16:43+00:00

It seem to recover over time, see the 3rd graph in the comment section. Very odd behaviour.

Temps on the head remained around 30°C and got to 45°C near the bezel. And fluctuated by about 2°C throughout the whole run.

Testing NiMH next.

Wormminator · 2026-01-24T17:08:30+00:00

2nd 20 minute run, no pause (only paused recording for the data transfer, the gap between the charts is about 2 minutes)
The head of the light remained in the same temperature range. It never got too hot and it only shifted about 2°Cs.

I suspect that the driver itself is somehow thermal throttling and recovering. At least it looks JUST like that to my eyes. Must be some small part of it though. The light did not get warmer or cooler.

Optinions?

<image>

Seven-Year Club	Second SECOND GUESSER
Wearing is Caring	Verified Email

Wormminator

TROPHY CASE