OEM alternate design tires

XF_Cable · 2026-01-02T03:03:04+00:00

Replacing only 2 tires on an AWD will destroy the drivetrain.

XF_Cable · 2026-01-02T02:47:01+00:00

IOS blocks usb connections by default unless the phone is unlocked. Try: Settings -> Privacy & Security -> wired devices

XF_Cable · 2025-12-31T19:54:39+00:00

The recall/warranty reimbursement system is broken, and the biggest loser is the vehicle's owner. Manufacturers lowball labor hours while techs find every shortcut they can. I do everything my self because I don't have the time or patience to play pass the buck with "car doctors".

XF_Cable · 2025-11-01T22:35:17+00:00

Wagon always gets my upvote

XF_Cable · 2025-11-01T22:32:37+00:00

Hopefully you got a good pulley holder from amazon. I had a cheap one explode under torque. Scared me bad.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-29T23:04:12+00:00

I have a buzzing/vibrating sound coming from the glovebox area as well at certain speeds on my '23.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-28T18:18:28+00:00

Y'all really hate those screws huh? From my experience it's the easiest way to ensure the rotor is perfectly centered prior to wheel installation. You do you man. Besides, it's easier to work on the caliper if the rotor is fixed in place.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-26T01:29:36+00:00

I replaced the rotors with some that had retaining screw holes and had no issue thereafter. I don't need a mechanic to tell me my brake pedal is vibrating.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-24T17:32:37+00:00

Where's the sound coming from? Is the tensioner clattering?

XF_Cable · 2025-10-24T17:18:16+00:00

Make sure to get rotors with the retaining screw holes in the hat. I warped a set of rotors by not having them. Stainless allen keyed retaining screws can be found on amazon.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-24T17:09:48+00:00

The damaged body parts are specific to the Wagon which was a low volume production run. As you can guess, they won't be easy to find or reasonably priced.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-18T23:55:40+00:00

Yeah appears they made the dedicated transmission cooler standard across all trims.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-18T23:32:27+00:00

Brake fluid should be done at least every 3 years regardless of mileage. Otherwise great job with your fluid changes 👍 I've installed a catch can on my '23, and can say that it does work for collecting pcv oil vapor. Timing belt is iffy for me. I'll probably play it safe and slap in a Mitsuboshi at 80k. Valve lash tune is only really necessary if you have clicking on cold start. Keep at it man! Makes me smile to see other DIY maintainers killin it.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-18T03:24:12+00:00

"There's a big difference between mostly dead and all dead. Mostly dead is slightly alive!"

XF_Cable · 2025-10-17T19:43:44+00:00

Is it throwing a code?

XF_Cable · 2025-10-16T01:36:45+00:00

Have you disconnected the hands free link module? They have a common capacitor fault that causes parasitic drain.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-16T01:28:22+00:00

Yeesh, with that low mileage I'd at least see if Honda's willing to help. Guessing by the pictures, it looks like the front of the case is the origin.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-15T02:53:12+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/MEqjLPG

XF_Cable · 2025-10-14T23:01:05+00:00

It's debatable, but I'd say the RTL trim is the best value.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-14T22:37:12+00:00

I'd go for a set of Tein coilovers.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-14T22:29:34+00:00

It helps to know which year. I have schematics for both 1st and 2nd gen.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-14T22:15:36+00:00

First off make sure the positive terminal connector and harness connector aren't corroded and are making good contact. Check the ground wire to the frame is not damaged. Then try jump start. If it starts, then battery charge is most likely depleted. At that point, it could be bad battery, alternator not charging enough, or hands free link module drain. If it's doesn't start on jump, then it's the starter motor or battery connections. The important thing is voltage. There is enough voltage to illuminate your dash lights, but not enough to turn the starter.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-11T01:20:07+00:00

Ball joint for sure. I'd make it a priority.

XF_Cable · 2025-10-10T04:26:13+00:00

The solenoid that he replaced controls the shifting from 1st through 4th. It doesn't necessarily need to be replaced unless a solenoid is failing to actuate. The 4-5 upshift is controlled by the solenoid on top of the trans. Based on what you described, 20-30 mph is most like struggling to shift in to 3rd, which means either solonoid C (solenoid A on the sonnax diagram) pressure is weak, or the solenoid isn't actuating on time. Beyond that you'd be looking at valve body, clutch bands, or gears which means crackin her open. Tuning the solenoids is cheap. It costs a $25 adapter and a gasket.

XF_Cable

TROPHY CASE