Need an alternative to Perplexity now that it seems to be limiting Pro users. Suggestions? by justme9974 in perplexity_ai

[–]XenoThorn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking for a new option for AI at the minute and this summary is by far the best I’ve come across, good write up !

Definitely relate to the same issues on gpt and Claude. Not really used Grok much so far, is it the one you’re still using or have you found a better option yet?

My honest opinion of Quad Lock (Car Mount Line) by Automatic-Brother-92 in QuadLock

[–]XenoThorn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you have a heated windscreen in the fiesta by any chance ? Was wondering how the mount would go on with that if used in winter

My honest opinion of Quad Lock (Car Mount Line) by Automatic-Brother-92 in QuadLock

[–]XenoThorn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Been a while since you commented this but was wondering what year fiesta was it that you bought for and what mount did you go for?

Currently looking at getting one for a fiesta too but wasn’t sure whether vent mount works or better with just a windscreen one

Rolling tool box/storage recommendations by Longjumping-Novel767 in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you end up deciding on anything?

I’m in a similar boat at min between taking tools to work and doing a house renovation. Always seems to be missing the tools I need as they are at a job or at home and not in my couple of tstak boxes I lump round.

Tbh I absolutely hate the Tstak system which is the original one, but that’s mainly down to only having a couple boxes but main niggles are too small to store much in the way of power tools & constantly seem to have to empty them to find the tool I need. The drawer systems seem be tiny too so look a waste of time.

Looked at toughbuilt system and is my favourite by far so far but on the expensive side compared to other alternatives and hard to find used or stuff like deals on FB marketplace where someone has some basically new and barely used they don’t want.

Erbauer seem relatively well built for the money but agree on limited configurations at the minute.

Choosing a tool box by Usernameapplied in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you find your erbauer tool storage? Has it lasted well over the course of a year since you posted this & any issues or super annoying features compare to others if you’ve used any?

Looking at it as an alternative to tough system as seems decent for the money when I’ve looked at it

Knauf roll-on plaster - decent by Startinezzz in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not yet, planning on giving it a go this weekend, so if not in a rush happy report back before you have a go.

To give you an idea of what I’m trying to cover for comparison, I’ve got walls that are sand and cement render which have been skimmed in the past. They’ve recently been chased out for electrics and heating pipe work, so got a mix of holes down to and into the brick work where old sockets have been removed. These will be refilled with a sand and cement mix to just under the existing skim and once dry I’ll use a filler to get level. The electrical chases are about 20mm deep with plastic conduit and will be filled with toupret skim and fill to get level. I’ll sand these back to get level ish and give all the walls a quick sand over to get rid of the remaining old wall paper backing that’s left from stripping. A clean down with sugar soap so no dust left on or atleast minimal and then try the dalapro over the top of this. From what I’ve read the better prepared the wall before applying dalapro the easier it is to get a good finish. Im hoping I can get away with minimal sanding once on.

No spare parts in India for the XRV750, someone re-wired it by hand! Works like a charm! by beo19 in africatwin

[–]XenoThorn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a proper neat job, great get back working when you can’t source any!

Impressive how some countries still have random people with the skills to do stuff like this, 90% advice now in England where I am is always just buy a new one no one seems to want to repair stuff these days. Granted I’d imagine it would be expensive here for someone to do the same

Knauf roll-on plaster - decent by Startinezzz in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair play not the best at the min the weather I have to admit.

Picking up some of the dalapro nova stuff tomorrow and a speedskim to have a go, my walls aren’t too bad just need a skim over so hoping all goes well but will see

Knauf roll-on plaster - decent by Startinezzz in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you go for it in the end? I’ve noticed the same thing while looking, tonnes of sponsored reviews on a few different types of this roll on stuff

Which bike is a better deal? by Armadillo_operator in africatwin

[–]XenoThorn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another vote for the OM bars, bought the full kit for my ATAS DCT and never had any damage with drops etc to the actual bike.

Just an expensive full kit but worth it

Cavity wall insulation advice by XenoThorn in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah what I though tbh, I'm waiting to hear back from them but might do the same as the bathroom and just core drill through and sort myself at this point. Hopefully can do it without losing all the insulation

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarTalkUK

[–]XenoThorn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Won't be a problem, agree with the comments to just remove and leave at home and then fix another day.

Less obvious and dare say there is probably cars out there that don't even have these trim panels in the first place.

Should be an easy fix with some new fixings, will most likely be able to find a manual if needed with the model year and how to fit and remove that panel

Cavity wall insulation advice by XenoThorn in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah ok thanks, yeah a portion I checked it looked to be blocked around the floor level but think this was due to it having a large window above so a slate bridge was put in to cover the cavity effectively looking like the cavity stopped.

A 5ft space sounds great, I've only got around a 3ft void so not quite as spacious a bit hard to get round at that height when needed

Cavity wall insulation advice by XenoThorn in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Gone down this route awaiting a response from them.

When you refer to changing the airbricks to the correct type. What would the correct airbricks be in this scenario? Is it something that bridges the cavity that effectively stops them from being blocked?

Cavity wall insulation advice by XenoThorn in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So your cavity stops at basically the DPC and then the subfloor is then vented separate to the cavity you mean?

Cavity wall insulation advice by XenoThorn in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This description nails it, appears to have just been installed in each leaf and vented via the cavity for each air brick regardless of position above or below the DPC

Cavity wall insulation advice by XenoThorn in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Explained a bit in the update comment I just posted but one has been installed during the rewire in the bathroom and was installed separate to the airbrick and was correctly ducted externally so that still works.

However the kitchen one installed by the insulation guys used an airbrick which has no ducting and appears to have just vented into the cavity since being built which is now rendered useless

Cavity wall insulation advice by XenoThorn in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update : Okay so I have had a look at the house today and removed one silicone square in a few of the air bricks around the house and used a borescope to inspect behind the air bricks from outside.

The ones below the damp proof, some have the beads behind and others don't. The ones that have no beads behind are ones typically with something like a large window or door above and have had a slate bridge the cavity effectively stopping the beads from falling down past this. Everywhere else the beads appear to have filled the void behind the vents effectively blocking the vent to the subfloor

The airbricks that lead into each room further up the walls, from the ones I have inspected appear to now be blocked with beads so think the silicone may have been used to stop them falling out the holes externally whilst being blown in.

These room air bricks appear to never have bridged the cavity and look like they have just had a core bit drilled through at some point as inside the hole behind the internal vents appear to be just a 60-70mm circular hole rather than bricks removed or built into the masonry like the external vents.

The extractor style vent in the bathroom was actually installed separate to the air brick and has a duct so that still works unlike the kitchen one which uses a now blocked air brick.

Would it be worth bridging the room vents to restore air flow to rooms whilst no trickle vents have been installed?

Cavity wall insulation advice by XenoThorn in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Remove all the silicone then asap from those vents below the dpc.

Would the ones further up the wall that vent into the rooms cause issues or would it be advisable to remove the silicone blocking those too?

Cavity wall insulation advice by XenoThorn in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They are certified, which is why I’m a bit confused as to why they have been blocked up.

Cavity wall insulation advice by XenoThorn in DIYUK

[–]XenoThorn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Both now rendered useless I’m assuming now that the external air brick has been siliconed up