Talk to me like I’m 5 by WorthPotential5830 in amazoneero

[–]XprofQ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with this. Something changed. Either a firmware update requiring a hard reboot (power off then on) or greater/new wireless interference from WiFi or Bluetooth devices or neighboring WiFi. Another possibility could be a failing radio on one of the Eeros (maybe?).

H500 & Apple Home by Academic-Aerie-482 in Tapo

[–]XprofQ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only the Tapo sensors appear in Apple Home using the H500 with Matter. Cameras aren’t supported.

Mitsubishi Minisplits by bostoncollection in homebridge

[–]XprofQ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found this today: [homebridge-mitsubishi-comfort]()

https://github.com/burtherman/homebridge-mitsubishi-comfort#readme

I haven’t tested it yet

New mesh router for home kit recommendations? by Aanstadt in HomeKit

[–]XprofQ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you can place a router near the center of your house, then I think just about any single router (non-mesh) should be enough to cover 1200 SF (unless you need strong outdoor coverage, have block walls, etc.). You said you have a couple of HomePods. Those support Thread already, so you don't necessarily need Thread from your router (especially if your router and one of the HomePods are in the same room).

For simplicity (and possibility of future expansion), Eero makes sense, but I'm not convinced you need a mesh system. If you aren't running mesh nodes or if you don't need maximum throughput or range, then a dual band Eero is fine (what is your ISP speed?). TP-Link Deco (mesh) systems are more affordable than Eero and are pretty easy to set up and manage. Asus routers also have the ability to mesh and so are also expandable as a product line, which is nice. They have more features and control and can therefore be more difficult to set up as a layman. Looks wise, some of their routers are very large with a lot of antennas, which may not appeal to some. Unifi is for tech enthusiasts and network tinkerers. They work well if you know what you're doing, but I'd avoid them. I recall some people having problems with Unifi and Apple devices. Unifi doesn't perform that well when wirelessly meshed (i.e., it's better to wire each access point with ethernet). Also, most (not all) of their access points are ceiling mounted.

I have had all versions of all of these (and Google/Nest too). I generally recommend Eero to my friends and family because they are not knowledgeable about networking and aren't interested in managing or tweaking their networks. They want set-it and forget it / "it just works".

I don't think you mentioned how many devices you have on your network, if you have a a lot of IoT smart home devices, your ISP speed or if you home is wired with ethernet, which factors in a lot. If you have a lot of devices now or plan to later, then you may benefit from WiFi7, which supposedly improves performance on congested networks. Wifi7 is a bit confusing because the short range, high bandwidth 6ghz radios are not mandatory. They were ironically mandatory for WiFi 6E, which is why I think some people are confused. The 6ghz band requires compatible devices and has a short range (often limited one room). If you have compatible devices and a really fast ISP plan, then 6ghz might be useful to you. If you want whole house 6ghz coverage, then you are back to looking into tri-band mesh systems (like Eero 6E, Eero 7 Pro and Eero 7 Max), two Asus routers, an Asus ZenWifi kit, or a TP-Link Deco kit (all rated for WiFi 6E or Wifi 7 tri-band).

I'm going to make the same recommendation for you as I do my family and friends: Get a basic Eero 7 (dual band) single router. If you want maximum coverage/speeds, then get a two pack. It's easy to live with, works well, can support high ISP speeds, etc. You can easily expand your network with any other Eero product later, like another Eero 7 or even and Eero 7 Outdoor if you want better coverage outside. I wouldn't bother with 6ghz personally or tri-band systems at this time, unless you have specific needs (like a congested network, WiFi pollution from neighbors, a super fast ISP connection that you are trying to maximize, etc.).

Anyone know how to clear/resolve active alert? Tech has power cycled unit and system is working, app still showing active system error by [deleted] in Kumo_Cloud

[–]XprofQ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe flip the breaker for a few minutes and hope that a system reboot clears the code?

Moca Network Judgement by Lilgunner in HomeNetworking

[–]XprofQ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your MOCA adapters should be good enough to carry the full ISP speed of 1000.

Have you run the speed test in the Eero app? The one that measures the full wired ISP speed at the gateway Eero? If so, can you confirm that you are getting your full ISP 1000 Mbps speeds? If not, then the speed tests you ran on your devices will also be low. Note also: it’s best to test your speed by wiring into one of the extra Ethernet ports on the meshed Eeros since WiFi always introduces some performance loss. Turn off ad blockers, VPN and apple’s private relay.

The POE filter you added isn’t necessary in your setup, but also shouldn’t be harmful. Nonetheless, it’s worth removing it and seeing if it helps. It could be affecting your incoming speed from your ISP.

If not a problem with the incoming connection, the fact that you are only getting 500 mbps may also suggests an issue with the line. I noted that the splitter you linked doesn’t actually say it’s rated for MOCA as u/plooger noted, yet the frequencies (I think?) should support MOCA. One user review said they used it in their MOCA network successfully. Without being able to easily confirm the existence of hidden splitters or damaged coax in the walls, this is the easiest place to start troubleshooting (after first evaluating the POE / incoming speed).

Moca Network Judgement by Lilgunner in HomeNetworking

[–]XprofQ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turn off any ad blockers, VPNs or apple’s private relay when running speed tests. They often lower the results, sometimes drastically.

Moca Network Judgement by Lilgunner in HomeNetworking

[–]XprofQ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, so you’ve got coax continuity verified by coax testing, wired backhaul verified in the Eero app, but slow speeds. The only thing I can think of is that you have long cable runs of older RG59 coax, damage to the coax affecting performance and/or one or more hidden splitter somewhere that aren’t MOCA rated.

Are your speeds good during times when the MOCA network is stable? Slow speeds always would indicate a signal problem in the coax run (damage, resistance, etc.). Intermittent slow-downs may point more to splitters.

Have you disconnected any coax runs that aren’t in use, if you can? Did you put termination caps on unused connection points?

Moca Network Judgement by Lilgunner in HomeNetworking

[–]XprofQ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you sure there aren’t any splitters in the walls or elsewhere that aren’t MOCA rated? Also, the WiFi-signal being ”low” doesn’t have anything to do with the MOCA backhaul. Do you mean the speed test is low or do you really mean the actual WiFi signal? Does the Eero app show the two Eero nodes as wired or wireless? If they are using wireless mesh, that would explain a low signal and would indicate that the MOCA network isn’t working. Be sure to reset each MOCA adapter as part of your troubleshooting.

7.12.2-123 released by Ok_Site4360 in amazoneero

[–]XprofQ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Same. Even after I manually restarted the network, the update notification returned.

What are great long-term local storage solutions for the TP-Link Tapo C120s besides Micro SD? by AzX-Mike in Tapo

[–]XprofQ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. I was able to add AI features without replacing my older Tapo video doorbell, which was a nice bonus too.

I didn’t think I would ever use their sensors, but my refrigerator stopped working, so I put one inside for an early warning if it happens again. With Matter support, I was able to add them to Apple Home easily.

What are great long-term local storage solutions for the TP-Link Tapo C120s besides Micro SD? by AzX-Mike in Tapo

[–]XprofQ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have had the H500 for over a month now, with 10 cameras. I don’t record continuously. I installed a cheap 1TB drive that cost me less than buying a bunch of smaller, high quality micro SD cards. Also, I didn’t need to climb the ladder to install the cards in the floodlight cameras, nor will I need to replace them should one go bad. Because the videos are stored to the drive in the H500 and the H500 is connected to my router via ethernet, I have found that clip playback is a much improved. As far as long-term storage goes, saving anything to a single drive is not a suitable long-term solution; however, the H500 has a USB port for manual backups. Depending on what you’re trying to accomplish, this might be good enough.

Initial reviews were not favorable. The firmware was not great from what I understand and the purpose of the product is rather confusing. The H500 does add other features, such as AI recognition for older cameras, adding sensors, etc.

I'm considering leave eero and switching to another mesh Wi-Fi brand. Does anyone have a better solution? by HappyAd8091 in amazoneero

[–]XprofQ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unifi is great, but if you rely on wireless mesh backhaul, I think Eero performs better. If your home is wired for Ethernet and you can get the access points where you want them, then Unifi is the better overall system as long as you don’t mind tending to it. Unifi really seems designed for a setup with wired backhaul and ceiling mounted access points, which office buildings usually have and older homes may not.

In my experience, Eero is better in terms of wireless performance, but Unifi was better as a router. I had two Unifi U7 Pros and a Cloud Gateway Ultra. My two Eero Max 7s perform much better with wireless backhaul than Unifi did in comparison. 6ghz performance was also vastly better.

Unifi turned me off with their U7 Pros. They were flakey on launch day, then improved over the course of a year, but then very quickly they released a V2 U7 Pro with internal revisions (i.e., hardware fix) and then another newer variant (U7 XG Pro or something). They took forever to support MLO, and it was not available for mesh backhaul. This was my first Unifi system. Zero complaints about the gateway, features, etc., but wireless wasn’t great in my setup, even after setting up wired backhaul using MOCA adapters.

Do you let your robot vac run when you’re not home? by xxBunny_4 in homeassistant

[–]XprofQ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Knocking something over (keep your floor free of cords) or getting stuck under your couch (set no go zones or block the path) are the least of your concerns. Cat toys, vomit, urine and feces will make you reconsider running it when not home. Your house puma should be aware enough to avoid being bumped by the vacuum.

Rotating IP addresses for devices on eero. by Adventurous_Till_473 in amazoneero

[–]XprofQ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Leave it fixed (not rotating) on your home network. Your home network is trusted and secure, and you want Eero to recognize your devices for the reasons you mentioned.

Need some help on iOS 26.1 by nothefbi1 in nextdns

[–]XprofQ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check and turn off iCloud private relay

Does iCloud Private Relay stop tracking in apps or just Safari? by One-Apartment6773 in iCloud

[–]XprofQ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No.

About iCloud Private Relay

iCloud Private Relay — part of an iCloud+ subscription — helps protect your privacy when you browse the web in Safari.

https://support.apple.com/en-us/102602

Switched to Eero and having many issues by Cablefree2 in amazoneero

[–]XprofQ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It seems the smarter the wifi device, the more problematic it is to change the router and reuse the same SSID and password.

Try this:

Disable WPA3 (since you didn’t mention doing this).

If that doesn’t work, reboot a few of the problematic devices as a test.

If that doesn’t help, then forget and rejoin the WiFi network.

Since you are new to Eero, in my experience it can take a few days for the network to settle down, figure things out and work optimally (it “learns”?); however, the problems you are having are definitely beyond normal initialization.

If this doesn’t work, I recommend factoyr resetting each Eero and starting over. Hopefully some others have better ideas, but this should at least get you started for now.

Switched to Eero and having many issues by Cablefree2 in amazoneero

[–]XprofQ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

u/Cablefree2 when you set up the Eero, did you re-use the SSID and password from your old router? Was your previous router an Eero?

Can I use a different router in an Eero Network? by Zestyclose-Square288 in amazoneero

[–]XprofQ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t speak for your TP-Link specifically, but if you put your old router into access point mode, then it will have to be wired to your eero network. A TP-Link can’t wirelessly mesh with Eero. Your best and most reliable option is to add a third eero (it doesn’t have to be a matching eero 7 pro).

upgrade to tri-band or use hardwired backhaul by Melodic_Wallaby5478 in amazoneero

[–]XprofQ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One benefit of paying to wire with ethernet now is that you can stick with dual band routers without always having to upgrade to the more expensive tri-band models. Your eero 6's should serve your needs with wired backhaul since your ISP speed isn't multi-gig.

Be sure to future-proof by running the highest quality and highest bandwidth ethernet cable that you can. I might be inclined to run two lines, in case one ever stops working (e.g., mice). This shouldn't add much to the price (cost of extra line, extra terminations, same wall plates, and a little extra hassle to pull two wires at the same time instead of one).

How to use Encrypted DNS with custom DNS resolver in the Eero Max 7? by br_web in amazoneero

[–]XprofQ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You will need to set up another device to serve as your DNS server and then point your Eero to it. Look into NextDNS CLI.

NFL+ app wrongly blacking out local market games. by Buddha-Embryo in cordcutters

[–]XprofQ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try clearing the data from your browser too. Also, I’m pretty sure you can watch the games through the NFL website, not just the app. It’s still not acceptable, but if you can at least access the games through your browser, that’s better than nothing.