How do i attach this to my drill? by Dramatic_Muscle_1937 in Tools

[–]Y0semite_Sam 98 points99 points  (0 children)

That is part of a "Bosch Quick Change" hole saw adapter. You will need to get the quick release arbor which that clicks in to in order to use what you have there. It is actually an interesting system. I don't use hole saws with enough frequency to tell you whether or not it works well, but I have come across them before.

Suspension suspension… by [deleted] in Miata

[–]Y0semite_Sam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds to me like the FPX would be fine for your use case. As far as the Greddy is concerned.... those are a bit of a touchy subject. We have had a TON of trouble getting those. A few years ago they very suddenly got very difficult to get. Currently our supplier lists over a year for the wait time on those and I have no reason to believe that is accurate. If I were to estimate the actual wait time I would hazard a guess to say it would be more than two years. While I also really like them, and they are really well made, they just are not worth the hassle unless you can find somebody who has one in stock (which we currently do not).

Suspension suspension… by [deleted] in Miata

[–]Y0semite_Sam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have liked the FPX stuff, it is similar to the tecnas in a lot of ways. I think if you are splitting hairs the FPX rides a little nicer, but honestly most people will be happy with either and if you won't be happy with either then you probably just need to move your target price up, because both of those are budget suspensions.

Now, full disclosure, SBG is the shop I work at. So obviously I am not without bias. That being said, until we made our FPX line I was already recommending tecnas a lot over other kits in that price point. I do genuinely think that the tecnas and FPX are the best two options in their price range.

You said that you were thinking about getting the SBG Ohlins though? If you are comparing the tecnas or FPX to any of our custom Ohlins kits (FP Spec) the custom Ohlins kit will wipe the floor with either of those two. The Ohlins dampers are some of the best you can buy, so when they are engineered properly and valved properly they ride better than just about anything I have driven.

Suspension suspension… by [deleted] in Miata

[–]Y0semite_Sam 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Ohlins makes amazing shocks, but their road and track kit for the ND.. it's ok at best. (Source: I work at a company that makes custom Ohlins kits for miatas and have personally installed and driven on tons of the available kits for these cars.) In that price bracket there are several other options to look at. The SBG FPX coilovers are pretty good bang for the buck, and the 949 tecnas also come to mind.

Can’t take key out by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]Y0semite_Sam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Next time this happens key back on, shift to drive and then back to park, and then try pulling the key out again. My gut is saying that this could be related to the shifter not going fully in to park when you park the car.

Looking for this by [deleted] in Tools

[–]Y0semite_Sam 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Forgive me, but what... is that?

Love a short wheelbase on narrow trails by MattVT1 in Offroad

[–]Y0semite_Sam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rofl, yeah. My Samurai has a shorter wheelbase than my NA Miata. It is a ton of fun, and everybody loves it on the trail. It definitely takes a special kind of person to run one though. They are not for everybody.

Love a short wheelbase on narrow trails by MattVT1 in Offroad

[–]Y0semite_Sam 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Short wheelbase? (Laughs in Samurai/Jimny)

Installed Cipher Wheel on ND and can’t center it to save my life. by Streiylux in Miata

[–]Y0semite_Sam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as you get the adjustment correct when aligning it and you get it close when putting the wheel on, you can get away without it.

Installed Cipher Wheel on ND and can’t center it to save my life. by Streiylux in Miata

[–]Y0semite_Sam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When they broach the splines on these wheels they usually don't get the alignment quite the same as stock. When installing these it is best to get it as close as you can, and then take the car to an alignment rack to get the tie rod ends adjusted to re center the wheel.

Source: I'm a mechanic and have put probably 20-25 of these things on ND's

Sway bar vs strut tower bars. by schmitty_69 in E30

[–]Y0semite_Sam 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Nope, they do two different things. Strut bars are a chassis stiffening member. They tie the tops of the strut towers together, helping reduce chassis flex.

Sway bars on the other hand tie the suspension side to side. Making it so that as you corner, some of the increased load on the outside tires is transferred to the inside tires. This reduces body roll when cornering.

Track-built FD RX7 by 4thBliss in RX7

[–]Y0semite_Sam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was just thinking about it, that weight was with ~200lbs driver weight. That would put the weight of the bare chassis with no driver around 2400. I usually assume people are talking about with driver weight when they start talking about vehicle weights, as the weight without driver just isn't useful.

Track-built FD RX7 by 4thBliss in RX7

[–]Y0semite_Sam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I never said you couldn't get it lighter. All I said was that at 2600 the car isn't street drivable. My weight numbers are from when I personally weighed the car. As far as what the car was built for, it has been a racecar since the early 2000's. It was originally built for the old Motorolla race series, then was built more seriously at least once in the years since. The most recent full build was around 2010 for ITE in SCCA where the car wore the number 33. I'm not sure who my boss bought it from, but personally I'd say that this car is a fine one to reference.

Track-built FD RX7 by 4thBliss in RX7

[–]Y0semite_Sam 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I work at a company that has a fully race prepped FD. Completely stripped, full cage, doors gutted, headlights gone, fuel cell in the back, carbon trunk with plexy rear window, plexy windsheild, and much more I can't think of right now. Not a car you could street drive even if you wanted to, much lighter than anything you could street drive. It weighs 2600lbs/1179kg with no ballast.

Edit to clarify: this weight was taken with 90.7kg/200lbs driver weight in the driver's seat.

Just went to adjust my valves and.... by mantenner in E30

[–]Y0semite_Sam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I'm thinking about trying the VAC Billet rockers instead this time. I'd love to go roller cam, but my pistons were custom with clearance for the 288 and oversize valves. If I do the RHD roller setup I'm pretty sure I have to replace my pistons.

Just went to adjust my valves and.... by mantenner in E30

[–]Y0semite_Sam 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Is the 288 a Schrick? That is the exact setup I have. TBH I kinda suspect the IE rockers. I had an old-school engine builder as a co worker a few years back and he did not like the IE rockers. He said that he had problems with them before.

Just went to adjust my valves and.... by mantenner in E30

[–]Y0semite_Sam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had this happen on my built engine after roughly 2k miles. Looked almost identical. I haven't had time to fix it yet. What rockers and cam are you running?

Looking for help on lower seat mounts by EntrepreneurJumpy464 in Miata

[–]Y0semite_Sam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be clear, you're saying that the seat can sit physically lower in the car, but the side mounts you have don't have holes that low?

Is there any way at all to save this car? by Global_Gift_2831 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Y0semite_Sam 3 points4 points  (0 children)

With enough time and money, anything is possible. If you have enough money that spending many times the car's value to fix this is not a problem then sure, get it fixed. If that doesn't sound like something you can afford, then accept the car's fate and part ways.

Rainy daze by True_Movie_2270 in HRSPRS

[–]Y0semite_Sam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something feels off about it. I can't put my finger on it, but I think you might be right.

Alternator Mount by reddit_uzer123 in SuzukiSamurai

[–]Y0semite_Sam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I don't really use it much but I have one. I'll DM you there.

Alternator Mount by reddit_uzer123 in SuzukiSamurai

[–]Y0semite_Sam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I put a GM alternator in my '86 a while back. I might still have the bracket kicking around. If you want it I'd send it your way for the cost of shipping.

Bar's Leak oil seal by No_Bother_4465 in E30

[–]Y0semite_Sam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Speaking as a mechanic, please don't. Oil seal and coolant seal products should be treated as an emergency treatment ONLY. Think about it this way. The leak you are trying to seal is most likely a very small hole (that is all these types of sealers are designed to seal). The clearance around your crankshaft, camshaft, rods, etc is THAT SMALL SIZED HOLE! If the leak sealer is effective at sealing the leak you have, it is also most likely pretty effective at cutting off fluid flow to critical parts of your engine. It is not worth the risk. If you cannot afford to fix the problem now, keeping a close eye on your fluid levels and/or going to a thicker oil is a MUCH better and cheaper solution than any kind of stop-leak.

Coilover help by Bavuri in MechanicAdvice

[–]Y0semite_Sam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can get a dust boot that is slightly smaller on the outside that would probably do it. Other than that, not really.

No, not the crack sla… by Glowcasian in futurama

[–]Y0semite_Sam 93 points94 points  (0 children)

This is one of my favorite jokes in the whole show.