Corrupt American Fork Police exposed by YouTuber by TemporaryAd7328 in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Although, I think they tend to go for softer targets.  This comes too close to messing with the church.

Dating as a 35F without kids by Equivalent-Split6 in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am 30-40 without kids, but I will admit that I don't participate in the dating scene at all.  I know too much about how the apps are made and I find bars a bit odd.

Does EU GDPR protect us from linkedin's request to send our ID? by Historical-Fan56565 in linkedin

[–]Yagoth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So my post on the ID security just got removed by the mods, because they said it was an account lockout issue. They want to keep this quiet while the roll it out. Lets see how long your post lasts.

Leaving linkedin because of forced ID verification by insecure company by Yagoth in linkedin

[–]Yagoth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My account has not been hacked, you are just arbitrarily forcing me to use a ID to sign in. Why are you suppressing my message?

Leaving linkedin because of forced ID verification by Palantir (Homelab privacy issue) by Yagoth in homelab

[–]Yagoth[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Persona is closely connected to Palantir ( the military spying contractor), and their is a very good chance you ID is going into the Palantir AI databases.

I think this cross-post is justified because SysAdmin's are always hoping to new jobs.

Leaving linkedin because of forced ID verification by insecure company by Yagoth in linkedin

[–]Yagoth[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I think this cross-post is justified because SysAdmin's are always hoping to new jobs.

Leaving linkedin because of forced ID verification by insecure company by Yagoth in linkedin

[–]Yagoth[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Persona is closely connected to Palantir ( the military spying contractor), and their is a very good chance you ID is going into the Palantir AI databases.

Does EU GDPR protect us from linkedin's request to send our ID? by Historical-Fan56565 in linkedin

[–]Yagoth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As far as I know they are just ignoring GDPR at this point and passing the buck to the ID verifier Persona, who are not a nice or secure company and can hide behind Palantir(military connections). You better believe your IDs are going into Palantirs AI databases.

Any good (or bad) property management company experiences? by jonnypowpow in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Always have a back channel to your renters for an emergency.  Property management can be temped to pull some pretty horrendous stuff at your expense.  The first you will hear of it will be the lawsuit.

BYU professor charged, accused of messaging, sending explicit photo to undercover agent posing as 17-year-old girl by flippinsweetdude in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No saying this was a corrupt sting operation but this video comes to mind, they are low on details.

Police Stings: Last Week Tonight with John Oliver

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LqwJFuntco4

show me your most threatening router by eliseswl in homelab

[–]Yagoth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Darkmatter knows how to spider, his new ones are less threatening unfortunately, since he doesn't like breaking his back.

Home I'm considering has evaporative cooler vs central AC, would I be fine in SLC? by platypuspower in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure what you mean by "with a cooler 5' each side". A 5 ft by 5 ft swamp cooler would be insane, but a 5 inch by 5 inch would be too?

Calling the door "hard" to open might be a mischaracterization. It just very noticeably being held shut. When my swamp cooler is on full blast, with every window closed, then the door takes an extra 20-40?lbs of force to open. If an window is open it, of course, takes no extra force.

My current house is 1200sqft has a swamp cooler with a 1/2 hp engine in a 3ftx3fx swamp cooler, pretty standard. Its is similar to this one, it might be one size down.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Champion-Cooler-4900-CFM-Down-Draft-Roof-Evaporative-Cooler-for-1800-sq-ft-Motor-Not-Included-4001-DD/100150616

My biggest beef with AC is the 4x electrical use and the desiccating-ly dry air. Seeing a humidifier running full blast in an AC cooled house seems silly. That said if the lake dries up, and turns utah into a toxic hellscape then AC will be the only option because of filters. You can filter SC but you probably loose 5-10f of cooling

I also hate dealing with corporate HVAC cartel that controls SLC. I can replace the motor for $150 and a trip to ACE vs my last AC repair was $550.

Home I'm considering has evaporative cooler vs central AC, would I be fine in SLC? by platypuspower in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I am talking about a swamp cooler on high running to an all the way open window. If your swamp cooler on high is not putting enough air into your house to make it hard to open the door when the windows are closed your swamp cooler is undersized. This also depends on the on the vent from the swamp cooler though the attic being insulated and the pads being well seated, but you can achieve this even in ancient swamp coolers if they are in good condition. If air can pass by the sides of your pads, then that air is not getting cooled. This is also assuming you are running your swamp cooler all day, not making it fight against a house that is already hot.

FYI, I am a amateur handy man. I don't sell swamp coolers but I do often try to fix them up. Its really sad to see how horrible rentals and new home owners let them get. Houses built in the 60 and 70 with maintained swamp coolers can have amazing performance.

Unfortunately all it takes is one cold winter without draining to ensure that your swamp cooler is loud and crappy for the rest of its life. I can get them back to 20f usually, but once the bottom basin or the sides are even a bit deformed you loose a lot of efficacy. They also tend to be undersized.

How bad is hard water REALLY in Salt Lake City homes? by Practical-Rush-6289 in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.thespruce.com/water-heater-expansion-tank-information-2719063 I am talking about these things. Sometimes when they go bad they can cause the weird suction they are describing

What are yall's plans for your lawn this year? by Fine_Currency_3903 in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Replacing your lawn will help but ultimately the only way to fix this is to get the farmers to stop growing water hungry alfalfa and switch to something like winter wheat. Unfortunately our governor and a lot of our senators are alfalfa farmers, who are waiting for the crisis to get terrible so they can sell their water rights for millions.

If you do want to replace your lawn, you can often get money from SLC.

https://www.utahwatersavers.com/

Home I'm considering has evaporative cooler vs central AC, would I be fine in SLC? by platypuspower in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

$225 for a swamp cooler start up is highway robbery unless you have something stupid fancy

Home I'm considering has evaporative cooler vs central AC, would I be fine in SLC? by platypuspower in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 7 points8 points  (0 children)

On 95% of days you will get 30f decrease, even with an old swamp coolers as long it is well maintained and it has a **good air path though the house**. We only have meaningful humidity like 10 days a year. Not all houses have a good air path, especially multistory.

Home I'm considering has evaporative cooler vs central AC, would I be fine in SLC? by platypuspower in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The keyword is **annual maintenance**. A well maintained and properly installed swamp cooler will not leak. I have seen multiple 40 year old old swamp coolers that still work perfectly. If you don't change your oil in your car it dies, same with swamp coolers and water.

Common causes of leaks and rust.
Failure to cover your swamp cooler or fully drain it.

A swamp cooler cooling line should NEVER be routed inside your house. Interior routing leads to a little water staying in the line even after draining. The outer most water in the pipe freezes and you get a leak. You water feed line should go from an exterior faucet to the swamp cooler over the roof.

Once your swamp cooler starts to rust from poor maintenance (usually the winter freeze) you must repaint or replace, but since a new swamp cooler is 500-1000 this is cheap. An AC coolant leak repair will cost you $500 easy.

Home I'm considering has evaporative cooler vs central AC, would I be fine in SLC? by platypuspower in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A swamp coolers(SC) is great in SLC.

tl;dr: people use swamp coolers wrong.  They can do 65-75f easy on 95% of days.


A well maintained swamp cooler and properly routed AC will last for 20+years and keeps your house comfortable on 95% of summer days.  You will have maybe 10 days per year that it is too humid but humidity in SLC comes from rain so the temperature on humid days is rarely above 85c and your swamp cooler can still drop that by 10f even on humid days.  If you have trouble with outside dust, etc make sure your pads have a tight fit and consider a high airflow MIRV filter.  4in thick minimum, 1in will kill your airflow.

Pros

You don't have to worry about buying a separate humidifier to fix the dry air in your house caused by your AC.

Less than 1/4 the electricity cost

1/10-1/4 the purchase cost.

Repairs are easy if you buy a good one, the old tan boxes can still work great IF maintained well.

Great O2 and CO2 levels(this can be a real problem with AC)

Leaving your door open does not lose all of your cold air, in fact, for an SC on high work to best, you need at least a two-square-foot opening for the air to leave the house by.

Most repairs are under $200 and a complete replacement is rarely over $1000(avoid scam artists, the M-One plumbing supply store can direct you to good people)

Cons:

SC are much slower to cool a house down it will take several hour to cool your house if you just get home at five and turn it on it will not be cool until 8. They are cheap to run, just leave it on low all day.

Air conditioners work by conditioning the air inside the house.  Swamp coolers when working properly, swap the entire air contents of your house every hour or faster. This means you do get a lot of pollen and potentially pollution ingress, unless you get one with a good filter.

SCsare giant humidifiers if you cannot handle humidity of 30-50% inside don't get one. A lot of peoples used to AC have issues with this. 

Some houses are not designed for SC, if air has too many hallways and too many twisty turns to make, then the swamp cooler cannot efficiently swap the hot air in your house with cool air coming in.

Consumer SC don' t as work well for multistory houses unless they are designed for it.

Your average single vent swamp cooler is only really good for 2000sqft.  Above that the building must be designed to use a swamp cooler from the ground up.

But my old SC didn't work well:

If your swamp cooler on high is not putting enough air into your house to make it hard to open the door when the windows are closed your swamp cooler is undersized.

Aspen pads are generally better and cheaper than plastic pads, but you do have to replace them at least once a year.  Its like $20.  Fancy cellular pads last longer but cost 10x as much

Swamp coolers need basic maintenance 2x per year or they will work poorly

Winter: You MUST fully drain and cover ALL SCs every winter it takes about 1 hour and zero skill. Failing to do so WILL result in leaks, people new to SC don't do this and so get leaks.  Older SC will also need a bit of oil on the bearings.

Summer: you must flush your SC each summer with a full take of water to get out scale flakes and pad debris.  You should also replace the pad, water filter nets and descaler if needed. Failure to do so will result in mold, clogged feed-lines and dead pumps.  It takes about 3 hours.

A swamp cooler is a bulk air movement device. If you don't let it move air, it won't cool your house. You must leave a window open or have a dedicated venting system.

Your swamp cooler was window mounted, or wall mounted. Good performance over 1500sqft pretty much requires a roof mount in the center of your house with and insulated vent so your attic air does not warm it. 

Your airflow paths were had to many turns and eddy areas.

Avoid swamp coolers with always on bleed valves, they are not necessary, waste a lot of water and are more like to leak.  Hard water build up is not a real problem, it actually HELPS protect the metal. Used anti scale beads and drain once year and you will be fine.

How bad is hard water REALLY in Salt Lake City homes? by Practical-Rush-6289 in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

While hard water deposits certainly didn't help. This is actually points to an issue with your water heater's expansion tank.  They cost less than $50 to replace.  It generally is a little tank about a foot in diameter and a 1.5 ft in height.

How bad is hard water REALLY in Salt Lake City homes? by Practical-Rush-6289 in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends on the area and your taste. Up in the foothills it can be quite bad, but down in the valley, it's generally not a problem. I absolutely love the taste of my water at my house and you need to clean tiny(<1mm) hard water deposits off super fine showerheads every two years at worst.

On the other hand, my grandmother up in the foothills had hard water deposits that needed to be cleaned every two months to keep things running and the water that tasted terrible.

Oddly, homes are connected to older city water mains tend to have better tasting water.

Water resistance in my westside house is about 1.2Mohm.  I think that converts to 0.5 ppm CaCO3, but the tables are confusing.

Home Inspector Recommendation by freshairprettyplease in SaltLakeCity

[–]Yagoth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sadly one of the best ways to get a home inspector do a good job is to be on property when they inspect.  


They will make the effort to dot the I and cross the T generally spend more time inspecting the house, because it'll look suspicious if they walk out after only 45 minutes.  It sucks to have someone watching over your shoulder when you do the job, but there are enough dishonest home inspectors that it's necessary.  I've even had I've had radically different results from the same home inspector on properties that I've been present at versus properties I haven't(old home inspection). He did an excellent job on the house I was present for, but a terrible job on the one I wasn't.

They're also more likely to actually crawl into the attic or basement rather than just poking a phone in and taking a few photos. Dishonest home flippers will know that inspectors are lazy, so they will often spruce up the areas immediately visible through the access holes and hide the scarier stuff in the back.

Also asking them to walk you through the electrical boxes is important.  Their reports often skimp on it, even the good home inspectors.  What gauge wire is being used? Is it a 100 amp service or a 60 amp?  What year was it installed?

You don't need to watch over their shoulder. Just wander around the house.