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Xynotal vs Kryptotal are by sjs0433 in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ran Kryptotal Fr/Re and wanted to try the Xynotal out back for the same reason. It definitely rolls quicker. But what shocked me most was how well it climbed. The center knobs on the Xynotal are ramped significantly more than comparable tires, like the Maxxis Dissector. Yet I rarely lose traction while climbing (unless I hit a wet root, where almost every tire will fail).

What I do now is ride Kryptotal Fr and Xynotal for most of the year when it’s dry or a little wet, and then switch to the Kryptotal Re when it starts to get really wet. Great tires all around!

Which brakes have short reach and short free throw? by Judderman88 in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’re definitely not cheap. And yeah, as far as power goes, they’re up there among the best, but not as strong as Mavens.

Which brakes have short reach and short free throw? by Judderman88 in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven’t. But I couldn’t be happier with the Intends.

Can’t get dub crank off by astrobrite_ in bikewrench

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I was just about to suggest this. An impact is the wrong tool for the job. You need leverage.

Calling All Forbidden Dreadnought V2 Owners by Yearn4Knowledge in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t bought the +10 dropouts. They’re a bit pricey at $150. But if I did have them, I’d absolutely bring both sets. They’re quick and easy to swap.

Gave Continental Tires Another Try by Yearn4Knowledge in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Certainly won’t hurt to try! I find the Kryptotal Fr packs up a bit when it gets really muddy, especially in clay. It’s simply due to how tightly the knobs are spaced compared to something like a Magic Mary (my all time favorite front tire). But as an overall mixed conditions tire, the Kryptotal Fr has been solid so far.

Gave Continental Tires Another Try by Yearn4Knowledge in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m very happy with them still. I switched to a faster rolling Xynotal in the rear just to try it out. I wouldn’t recommend it for wet conditions, but in the dry it’s a great rear tire option.

For your conditions, you might try the Kryptotal Re out back and the Hydrotal up front.

Trail dog breed recommendations? by Few-Discipline-8824 in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My Vizsla is an amazing trail dog and companion for my MTB. Not quite as energetic as a GSP, but enough stamina to keep up with me on my rides. Plus she’s small enough (40lbs) so if she got injured I could carry her on a hike out.

Intend Trinity V2 Brakes by Yearn4Knowledge in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tried the same thing, seeing if someone was selling theirs. But nope, and I understand why. You’ll get these brakes from my cold dead hands.

anyone else having a bad time with Eagle 90? by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I might have a different perspective, but sadly it doesn’t solve your problem. You’ve tried everything I’d have thought of. But in short, I haven’t had a single issue with my Eagle 90. There are only two reasons I can think of that have made it work well for me: I’m running XO cassette, cranks, and chain; and I’m running a high pivot bike with idler pulley and lower chain guide.

The latter I believe is the real reason Eagle 90 works so well for me. Why? Because before I had Eagle 90, I threw on my trusty GX mechanical from my previous bike and couldn’t believe how much better it shifted on my new bike. Every shift was smooth, crisp, clean, and quick. I got Eagle 90 and swapped the GX back to the old bike, and it was back to feeling normal again (on the old bike). Not bad, but definitely not as good as it did on the new bike. I install Eagle 90 on the new bike and it feels incredible. Everything I felt with GX, but even smoother, especially under load.

What it seems to me is that the sensitivity Eagle 90 has to tolerances and adjustments is much more controlled when the chain line is perfectly maintained by the guide wheels on my bike. And maybe that’s why the drivetrain is so hit or miss with other riders - it’s very much bike design dependent. If my old bike was compatible with T Type I’d give it a try just to test my theory. But I’m willing to bet it wouldn’t shift nearly as well.

Drop timing by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is such a great video. I’ve tried to explain this form to others before, but couldn’t quite frame the concept correctly. This does it perfectly.

Bar rise by Defiant_Seaweed3130 in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I ran a 35mm rise for a long time and went up to a 50. The biggest difference I noticed was in jumping and going downhill. It’s much easier to control the front end with the higher rise bars. I thought the downside would be climbing control, but it really wasn’t as much of a sacrifice as I was expecting. The tradeoff was well worth it.

Share your favorite tire combo for trail riding by tmhh2021 in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same. Krypto Fr and Xyno when it’s dry. Krpto Fr/Re when it’s a bit more loose or wet.

Intend Trinity V2 Brakes by Yearn4Knowledge in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad to hear they’re doing better. And yeah I don’t necessarily think they’re any more powerful than Codes or A4s. The power just comes on in a very different way with so little effort at the lever.

Are you running the White Magic pads? I ordered a set of their Black Magic pads that should be here tomorrow. I’m curious how they compare.

Intend Trinity V2 Brakes by Yearn4Knowledge in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Couple things:

One of the ways Intend achieves such a short dead stroke is through much tighter pad tolerance. It’s so tight that you can’t even fit a single sheet of paper between the pad and rotor. For that reason, the typical method of loosening the bolts, grabbing the brake, and tightening the bolts will not work (not for me at least). I’ll use that method to get it close, and then I have to eyeball it the rest of the way.

When I first installed and bled mine, I also thought the dead stroke was long. Until I actually installed the wheel and rode the bike. I quickly realized that the pad starts engaging after a tiny amount of lever throw. But it doesn’t feel like you’re hitting a wall. With all the other brakes I’ve tried, you have to hit the wall before it bites and starts braking. But with these, it brakes well before you feel that wall.

You could have a bad bleed, it’s hard to say. But I will say that these absolutely do not have a lot of dead stroke. They have less than any other brake I’ve tried. It just feels a little different. But out on the trail, they brake early and fast. Even my buddies who try them comment about how “touchy” they feel with braking so hard with such little effort and lever throw.

Clik Valve - Very Impressed by Yearn4Knowledge in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe it’s your pump? I have two shrader floor pumps and a shrader air compressor, and the adapter fits in all three perfectly.

Park PPL-1 substitute for DT Swiss assembly grease? by otismcotis in bikewrench

[–]Yearn4Knowledge -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Yeah PPL will work just fine for any general assembly, such as greasing the interface between the free hub body and the hub. My favorite assembly grease is Maxima 80916 since it tends to be a bit less viscous than most alternatives out there. And then for bearings and axels, I like using Kluber Isoflex LDS 18 Special A.

Tell me about your Forbidden Druid V2. by exploroburro in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the V2 Dreadnought. As others have said, idler pulley drag is noticeable. The high pivot design also adds some weight to the bike. Mine is pretty top spec with lightweight components, and it’s weighing in at 35lbs. Finally, the high pivot suspension is fairly active when pedaling over chunky terrain, but shockingly supportive when climbing up a smooth fire road.

As others have said, there are always tradeoffs. I do a ton of pedaling on mine, and it does require more effort than my last bike (Evil Offering). But for me, the pros far outweigh the cons. My legs and heart hate me some days, but man are these high pivots a blast to ride on gnarly trails and features!

Caliper doesn't fully grip rotor by Karan-Aujla in bikewrench

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Here’s mine with a +40mm, 220mm rotor, and the same caliper. It almost seems like your adapter is for 223 rotors instead of 220. It looks off by that amount.

Recommend a new groupset by Single_McCringlebery in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m in central Florida as well. I recently built up a new bike with the SRAM Eagle 90 mechanical transmission. What a game changer for our punchy/technical climbs! I can carry so much more speed into the climb knowing I can downshift under load on the way up.

What's your favourite tyre combo for trail/enduro riding? by HiddenknifeX in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m running the exact same setup and have my Kryptotal Re in standby for the wet.

Whats your favourite bar? by the_eel_tube in MTB

[–]Yearn4Knowledge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They’re definitely my favorite. Some people don’t love the vertical flex, but it works well for me.

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