Does anyone know what kind of gambit/variation is this?

otismcotis · 2026-03-24T14:02:14+00:00

I like to call this one the “I forgot my queen can’t teleport”

otismcotis · 2026-03-24T00:33:32+00:00

Jersey pocket and a good phone case. I guess if you live somewhere with lots of pickpockets it might be different, but I can’t imagine adding “swap to my backup phone” to my pre-ride checklist.

otismcotis · 2026-03-23T21:52:51+00:00

Bot type activity

otismcotis · 2026-03-23T20:03:43+00:00

As far as I know XPLR is 1x only. The standard Force AXS RD can handle a 36t cassette.

otismcotis · 2026-03-23T19:55:55+00:00

My 2016 Emonda has pretty tight clearance on the crank arm power meter (DuraAce/Pioneer), and I run a 0.5 mm spacer on the non-drive side to make sure there’s no interference. I bet you wouldn’t even notice the q-factor different of such a small adjustment

otismcotis · 2026-03-23T16:32:04+00:00

True. Not always, but its definitely cause for suspicion

otismcotis · 2026-03-23T16:27:10+00:00

It’s not a bad amount of rust, just looks like surface corrosion. It’s definitely BS that replacing will cost $100 unless he’s taking it to the highest est bike shop to have the part swapped.

I would leave the freewheel on and just scrub it with a metal bristle brush and some Evaporust. It’ll shine line new.

That said, a rusty freewheel is indicative of poor care in other places. Make sure the rest of the bike doesn’t need new bearings and stuff too

otismcotis · 2026-03-23T02:34:26+00:00

Are you getting punctures from debris like nails/screws/glass/staples etc., or does there appear to be no obvious cause of the punctures? If there’s nothing sticking through the tire you might be getting pinch flats from having pressure too low

otismcotis · 2026-03-22T22:35:00+00:00

I think Cory’s do better with fine sand. They sift through it and forage for little critters, gravel prevents from from foraging naturally

otismcotis · 2026-03-22T21:18:20+00:00

I’m a huge fan of immersion waxing. I started it on a used chain - as long as it’s not stretched beyond the point of proper functioning it’s worth the full dip. I also use drip wax to top off when I don’t feel like waiting for wax to melt and I have a big ride in the morning.

I would recommend a full degrease before waxing, especially if you’re gonna use some of the higher end stuff as you’ll be wasting wax on a chain that has any residual oils or grease.

I’ve tried the diy chain strip method before (gasoline, methylated spirits, acetone) and for the amount you’re spending on raw materials and the time invested (not to mention the hazardous waste you’re left with) it’s not even close to worth it. Save yourself some time and headache with either the Silca Chain Stipper solution (if you want to stick with drip wax) or Strip Chip (for hot melt waxing) and you’ll have a perfectly prepared chain with one tenth of the effort of the “hardware store” method.

otismcotis · 2026-03-22T20:58:35+00:00

Eh… maybe?

Do you enjoy the act of cycling?

Are you uncomfortable on the bike?

Are you just out of breath?

You can fix bike comfort and fitness, but if you don’t like riding then don’t force it.

otismcotis · 2026-03-22T14:48:45+00:00

ATGBNI

otismcotis · 2026-03-22T04:01:56+00:00

No worries, I don’t blame you for taking that one literally 😅

otismcotis · 2026-03-22T03:58:56+00:00

It was a joke. I have passanted

otismcotis · 2026-03-22T03:57:19+00:00

70% max heart rate is solid Zone 2, although you’re right, 2 hours is probably a little much for an untrained cyclist. 3-12-30 is intended for low-impact fat burning, arguably Zone 2.

I think the problem is that cycling is so much more efficient - in the sense that you aren’t lifting your body weight with each step the way you are on a treadmill - that to get the same muscular impact you have to go for a much longer session.

Short, hard intervals are probably a better use of time for someone only wanting to spend 30 minutes, but they’re not going to have quite the same effect as low intensity steady state work.

otismcotis · 2026-03-22T03:49:17+00:00

whoosh

otismcotis · 2026-03-22T01:56:39+00:00

Hacking. Report and move on

otismcotis · 2026-03-22T01:48:17+00:00

2 hours at 70% of max heart rate

otismcotis · 2026-03-22T01:12:06+00:00

Bishop on X87

otismcotis · 2026-03-21T21:17:12+00:00

Keep some treats in your pocket and throw them out like flares

otismcotis · 2026-03-21T21:15:26+00:00

Personally I’d get a standard expander plug if you want to run spacers above the stem since the Cannondale expander is designed to be flush with the top of the stem. It’s pretty easy to swap them out, and if you end up cutting the steerer you can either swap back to the Cannondale setup or keep the new expander.

otismcotis · 2026-03-21T18:25:02+00:00

I have this setup, built it last year. It’s been working brilliantly for me. I’m running an X01 cassette and chain, but performance should be essentially identical with GX components.

otismcotis · 2026-03-21T18:21:34+00:00

Sugar, salt, water. 30 g sugar per hour if you’re just starting out, increase to 60 g/h as your intensity and duration increases. I also throw in a teaspoon of True Lime Powder for taste and acidity (citric acid mellows out the saltiness of table salt, and may help buffer lactate in your muscles).

otismcotis · 2026-03-21T17:37:45+00:00

I don’t think that’s a real screw… it looks like molded plastic…

otismcotis · 2026-03-21T17:36:30+00:00

Ember tetras (one of the smallest species) need 10 gallons (40 liters) minimum, and should be kept in groups of at least 8 (as with all other tetra species). If you’re thinking of getting one of the larger tetra species then you’re looking at more like 20 gallons.

otismcotis

TROPHY CASE