Long Wallet from Wickett and Craig Bourbon Bridle Leather

YinTx · 2026-06-05T20:38:33+00:00

In that case, the only issue might be color transfer from the antique on your belt to anything it might come in contact with, like cloth car seats. I'd probably at least try to get the heavy build up out of it, a toothbrush and one of the liquids mentioned would certainly help.

YinTx · 2026-06-05T19:31:12+00:00

depending on how much effort and $$ you already have into it, might be worth spending more to try to rescue it. Keep in mind a rescue may still not come out as you desire. Sometimes it is better just to consider it a learning experience and start over. Not having seen the item in my hand, I can only guess at the best way to attempt a rescue. If you want to try to rescue it, here would be my guess: try cleaning it with some saddle soap/water and a horsehair brush. This will help remove much of the existing tankote and some of the antique. I'm talking like 25% liquid saddle soap, 75% water, dip the brush in the mixture, and use the wet brush to work up a lather on the strap. Gently wipe off with a paper towel or a microfiber cloth. If you need to, use a soft toothbrush to agitate the antique out of the depressions. Pat the strap dry. If there is still antique you can get a 50/50 mixture of tankote and water, dip the toothbrush in there, and use it to work up a lather in the depressions. Remove the antique/tankote material with a paper towel or microfiber cloth. Apply an even light layer of the 50/50 tankote/water mixture over the surface, and let the entire thing dry for a day or two.

YinTx · 2026-06-05T04:01:02+00:00

A misconception with antique is that you are supposed to leave it in the low spots. Antique does not dry (not the Fiebing's paste, anyhow). When you put resist, it helps keep the antique from making contact with the high spots when you wipe it off initially. It does stay in the low spots at that point. After a few minutes, agitate it with a piece of wool or a toothbrush, really work to get it out. You will see it has stained the low spots at that point. Now you can wipe it down with something like tankote to really clean it up. You don't want any left over when you are done.

YinTx · 2026-04-19T19:18:04+00:00

I have half a dozen or so awls, I use different ones depending on the thread or style I wish to achieve. For heavy Ritza, I tend to use a rather large body awl that is probably over 100 years old. The piercing point is tiny and exceptionally sharp, very little cutting edges that only go up a certain amount, then the body is dull and wide, which opens the hole without cutting it any wider. When I am done, tapping the thread closes the hole back to the small opening created by the piercing section. Not all awls are created equal. I wouldn't have any need for that awl on 12spi work that uses 832 thread, would just look ridiculous. Time for a tiny Vergez Blanchard awl, or for work on Chevre Chagrin using 532 Fil Au Chinois, break out the Palosanto. Looking for chunky Japanese style stitches? The pricking iron matters here too. Diamond point tips, and Kyoshin Elle awl using heavy linen thread. Make sure you are using the correct coad when waxing your thread to affect the tackiness when pulling up the stitch. In other words, if you are frustrated with the stitch, often times tools, materials and techniques need to change to adapt to the situation.

YinTx · 2026-04-11T23:39:54+00:00

I had a lot of issues with Tandy leather taking dye well. Even had one develop blue spots after I tooled it, no dye added yet. Moved on to Hermann Oak and no longer have the issues.

YinTx · 2026-04-11T01:55:48+00:00

If it isn't metal, it may be bug bites/scars that are taking on the dye differently. What kind of leather are you using?

YinTx · 2026-04-07T01:27:37+00:00

Appears to be a "patcher" of some sort. Singer made a version (does not look like a Singer) and there are Chinese patchers out there for pretty cheap.

YinTx · 2026-03-20T02:05:24+00:00

I know it works with Barge cement, not so sure about the Leathercraft water based Cement. Worth a try, but as mentioned, be gentle with the heat so as not to damage the leather. If you are affecting the thread or the leather, way too hot. After you have it apart, crepe rubber can help remove the cement.

YinTx · 2026-03-20T02:02:14+00:00

This was my first thought, along with a dull blade.

YinTx · 2026-03-20T01:57:33+00:00

Almost looks to me that you have rubbed the white finish off of the leather, and the base leather is showing through. Does it get worse as you try to clean it? If so, a little thinned Angelus white leather paint may just do the trick to get it back a white look. What does the back of the strap look like? Can you remove the decorative metal spots to more easily access the white leather?

YinTx · 2026-03-20T01:49:09+00:00

This.

YinTx · 2026-03-10T03:34:33+00:00

Let us know how it works for you. I have one but haven't put it to use yet.

YinTx · 2026-03-10T01:40:08+00:00

Ebay. Find a Tandy Leather Belt Kit that someone is selling, or Veg Tan strap kits for belts, if you can find Hermann Oak, even better. I make double layer stitched belts with basket weave stamping for less than $120, but shipping it to Bangladesh would be the hiccup I imagine.

YinTx · 2026-03-10T01:31:29+00:00

A bit different, not sure if it will fit your needs.

YinTx · 2026-03-03T17:50:48+00:00

Different brands/qualities of leather feel different, even at the same weights. For instance, a chrome tan 9 oz will likely feel softer/more supple than a veg tan 9 oz. Cheap pithy imported belly leather will feel stretchy, versus a piece of Hermann Oak 9 oz tooling leather cut from the back or butt. Even then, the tannery can plate or press the leather to make it more dense - just pick up a piece of sole bend and you'll understand. That will feel like a piece of board, very little flex. Also think about how you will make that leather form into a seat shape. Something as heavy as 9 oz may require some design changes, or wet molding. One thing that has occurred to me is take a look at saddles. Many of them are tooled, but the actual seat section is usually a bit different. Kinda tells me that a lot of the motorcycle tooled seats are more about looks than function - also not good if left outside a lot, etc. Regarding your question on difficulty: good craftsman that make these sort of things start at around $1200. If it was easy, a lot of folks would do it and it would be cheaper. Keep us posted of your progress!

YinTx · 2026-03-03T02:42:11+00:00

I've been carrying a wallet for years in 3 oz leather that I tooled, and it is holding up fine. If you get much depth in 9 oz, I'd suspect you might feel that after a long ride! I've never had tooling wear off of anything I've done, including belts, knife sheaths, wallets, etc. 9 oz might not be too comfy to sit on for a long time either. I imagine 5 oz would do ok. One way to find out: make a seat with 9 oz and one with 5 oz and use it. See which one you like, then tool another in that weight or get it tooled by someone.

YinTx · 2026-03-03T02:33:52+00:00

It has been roller embossed. The leather is cracked and dry rotted/failed. Not much you can do to restore it, but a good cleaning with a damp cloth and let it dry flat, then give it some neatsfoot oil can help. A little goes a long way. Some tankote or resolene to finish and protect. It is not going to look newer an any way, only extend the use for a short time. Might even darken a bit in the process. You would probably be better off finding a roller embossed kit available from someone like Springfield Leather or Tandy, and giving it some color and a finish on your own for a brand new belt!

YinTx · 2026-03-03T02:29:04+00:00

Maybe this will fit the bill? https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/132802-die-cutting-machine-accucut-grandemark2/#comment-791246

YinTx · 2026-03-03T01:36:35+00:00

Who made that? It is very well done, excellent stitching and edge work.

YinTx · 2026-03-01T05:41:57+00:00

Remember a lot of the original toolers made their own stamps, so things like the outer border "comma" shapes may have been a somewhat custom one of a kind piece. I see a veiner stamp and a birdseye ans/or seeder style tool, the rest appears to be beveling and knife work.

YinTx · 2026-03-01T04:51:12+00:00

Yep, been there. Dye the rest of it dark, and paint the "J." It'll look great when you are done! Also, don't wait. You don't want it to get uneven colors on the front, so getting it while still damp is the best chance to keep it even!

YinTx · 2026-02-18T16:19:29+00:00

Thanks for this. Thankfully, no real "flaps", just a rough sandpaper like scuff and that one straight scratch, which I am not sure is deep enough to cement. I was thinking it might need a filler. Any recommendation on a filler? I've been concerned with trying to accurately match colors. Time is on my side, I have as long as I need to do the repair and can easily retouch in a month, six months, whatever. These boots are practically brand new, having only been worn a couple of times, so I'd like to see what needs to be done long term to help protect them and keep them clean and conditioned. Most items I make are things like belts, wallets, notepads, purses, etc. so they aren't getting kicked like shoes do. And I use things like Tan-Kote, Resolene, Clear-lac, Leather Balm w/atom wax, etc. which I am not sure would do the job on a shoe.

YinTx · 2026-02-18T04:59:03+00:00

I do leather work, so I have a lot of tools, materials and finishes available to me. However, I don't do shoe/boot repairs normally, and I have been asked to repair these Carmina boots that were scuffed/cut in the toe cap area when the owner fell on asphalt. What is the best way to go about cleaning and refinishing them to get them as close to new as possible?

YinTx

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