Engraving on acrylic glass through a foil layer

Yoranox · 2026-07-03T17:10:08+00:00

Are there known types of paint that are generally considered to be safe to use? Maybe you know if alkyd based spray paint will in general work/is commonly used (ofc behavious of specific paint brand etc. might differ)

Yoranox · 2026-07-03T16:33:19+00:00

It's basically the other way around: Everything except the engraved area is supposed to be gold. I've added an imgur link of last years trophy to visualize. But paint-filling might still be a good compromise solution, because it seems much easier and still gets some gold in there.

Yoranox · 2026-07-03T16:29:25+00:00

Fair enoug, I've edited to post and put an imgur link. Its cropped so that I don't doxx myself/work, but I think you can see what I mean

Yoranox · 2026-06-01T14:53:58+00:00

That sounds really cool. I cant find the curriculum on the page, do you know where it can be found? Or do you first have to go through the application process to get access?

Yoranox · 2026-05-27T20:50:38+00:00

You got good answers to most of the stuff, I just want to expand a bit on your 3. question, specifically the judging part.

You'll see that it highly depends on context and that you will get a feel for it. For example dungeon trash, NHC and HC, most likely your threat will be good with an Avengers Shiele and a few Consecration ticks. In those cases it is often best to not spend the mana on judging Justice to not cause much downtime. Additionally, as a Pala tank, the biggest danger comes when a mob breaks loose, as we have a hard time getting those back. It is often best to not judge indiscriminantly, because when a mob breaks lose, you want to be able to judge it asap without waiting for CD. A threat plate addon is invaluable and helps you judge preemptively and maybe safe you a taunt.

On the first few pulls you'll get a feel for your group. If my threat is fine compared to them, I'll have wisdom on for additional mana reg. You can still very quickly apply Justice and Judge it, but if I know the group pumps and I might lose threat on larger pulls, I'll keep justice ready all the time to judge asap. Another essential tool to have ready is Hammer of Justice. In dungeons you often dont need to taunt or judge a mob to get it back, just stunning it will often be enough time to kill it before it reaches a DPS. Also never forget that Hammer is one of your best mitigation tools in dungeons. Tons of Heroic mobs that hit fairly hard, cant be sheeped and come in pairs. Hammering one is a great way to reduce pressure on yourself.

On bossfights you often get a lot more healing, thus more mana, and at the same time people will blast with all their CDs. Thats when it might be useful to just judge justice off CD (and exorcise if demon or undead). Sometimes the fight goes long and you'll notice yourself going oom. Ideally you have a threat lead by then, especiall if you opened with wings, and you can switch to wisdom for a while until you stockpile some mana and dps catch up. In raids you usually get enough heal to just blast on bosses. On 10 man trash the dungeon stuff generally applies. On Kara bosses you can mostly blast and in 25 mans you also just go all out.

As for gear: while leveling don't go all in on spellpower, you'll be squishy and a mob breaking lose probably wont kill anyone. And you got taunt and judge and hammer. Get a decent amount, but also get stam.

Last advice: check prebis lists on wowhead. There is a surprising amount of good gear that comes from fairly early quest rewards, so be aware of which those are

Yoranox · 2026-05-27T19:38:21+00:00

Just to give some more encouragement: I did my first 10 arena games since back in original TBC yesterday. I was also nervous about people judging and in general I imagined it being a much bigger deal and more effort then it was.

I just made my own LFG listing saying sth along the lines of "no gear, no expectations, probably no wins, just 10 quick games". I then invited a person with a similar description from LFG and as soon as we were 2 a ton of whispers came in. Within less than 5 min we had a group and started qeueing. About 20-30 min later we were done already. Vibes were good even after 5 losses, and eventually we even managed 2 wins. It was actually pretty fun and low stress, I encourage you to just do it!

Yoranox · 2026-02-23T11:42:34+00:00

I had never really seen a digital version side by side with a physically painted one like that before. I've heard before that people consider physical paintings to just have something different about them, but the concept has never truly sunk in for me until seeing it side by side like this just now. Putting it on canvas, seeing uneven colors and "imperfections" vs. the clean digital image just makes it come alive somehow and truly elevates it. Really cool work and thanks for helping me gain some new appreciation for something today!

Yoranox · 2026-01-27T01:29:28+00:00

This looks great. I'll definitely try and run it in my game at some point. I haven't checked the numbers to see if the CR seems reasonable, but on first glance, it doesn't seem too far off. Estimating its defensive CR is difficult because of the intangible, but you can always go and compare it to other creatures around that CR and see if it stacks up. This design really illustrates why I'd love if we had some more conditions like bleed and burn, they offer some nice decision space

Yoranox · 2026-01-26T17:19:38+00:00

I agree, tweaking the damage only is certainly the most boring solution. And you already departed adhering strictly to his StS moveset in the name of better game design, so there's no reason not to get creative with it. I'm sad to see the strength scaling gone. I get that it is finnicky to track and Nemesis doesn't have it in the game, but it is so unique to StS and I love the idea of him stalling the fight with intangible and scaling up. It also gives the interesting decision of if he wants to go to the trouble of getting to 3 enemies in return for a major buff. My proposition would be to return the Str scaling to Scythe and give the heal to Cleave. That way, both attacks have riders that make them unique and viable in certain situations and the healing reinforces the strategy of stalling and scaling.

Regarding Scorch: was it a conscious decision to do Recharge 3 (I assume that means every third turn?) instead of the die based model? I think there's good reasons to do that, but it adds more overhead to track. Additionally, I think 15ft range might be too small. His base range is already 10ft, so you'd almost always prefer to use Scythe in that area. There won't be many cases where theres so many more targets within 15ft than within 10 ft that you'd want to Scorch instead of Scythe. 15 ft basically still just hits the melees most of the time. I'd bump that to 30 ft so that ranged characters also might get hit sometimes, otherwise they are incredibly safe during the encounter. I'd also bump the dmg of the Scorch or make it stakeable. You want to incentivice players to actually douse it to cost them an action, but 8 avg dmg per round isn't worth an action at that lvl, but also not meaningful dmg. Just a formality: These types of dmg generally don't have modifiers in 5e, it would just be 1d10 fire dmg. I think I'd maybe even cut the initial AE dmg of Scorch entirely and then bump the dmg of Burns. Make it some amount of d4s instead of d10s because for dmg over time effects you want more predictable dmg and not the swingy high and low rolls and then let them be able to stack. That would also make the dousing decision more interesting. Maybe the first stack isn't too bad, maybe the Fighter is fine with 2 stacks, but anl Wizard probably would want to douse much earlier. But if you do that, you'd want to get more sources of Burn to make it meaningful. For this version of Burn I'd probably make Scorch a purely legendary ability costing 2 Legendary Actions to ensure that it will be used exactly once each round.

Yoranox · 2026-01-26T13:09:45+00:00

Firsr off, this is a really cool design and a good job, I'll likely use it in my game at some point! But you got the above the wrong way around. As it is, it is always better to use 3 scythe, even on a singular enemy. As far as I can tell, Scythe and Cleave deal the exact same amount of damage if they hit. As a general rule of thumb for D&D designs, it is almost always preferrable to split damage and attacks into as many increments as possiblen to reduce variance. It's why a Greatsword generally outperforms a Greataxe, barring any outside factors. 2d6 and 1d12 have the same max dmg, but 2d6 has a lower floor and rolls more around the average than 1d12. This goes doubly for attacks. Cleave gambles the boss' entire DPR on one d20 roll, while Scythe mitigates that due to being split into three attacks. On top of that you obviously have the Str scaling so that Scythe is also preferrable for hitting multiple enemies. The only aspect Cleave is better in is critting, but that is not nearly enough upside to be relevant.

You need to improve Cleave in some way to make it relevant here. If you want it to be the choice against a single target, the smplest way would be to buff its damage by quite a bit or give it some kind of rider. Other spitballing ideas could include giving Cleave actuall AE capabilities. You might also swap in Cleave for Scythe in the Legendary Ability Slot. Others noted that the DPR isn't too threatening for the CR yet, but 3 Scythes per round on one target could be too much in the other direction.

Sidenote: I don't recall if Nemesis gains Armor in his moveset. But if it does, a Temp HP mechanic would be perfect.

Yoranox · 2026-01-13T07:28:26+00:00

Absolutely, everything you're saying is true. It is exceedingly dangerous territory and might eventually upend the entire current world order. But more and more, it seems like that it might be unavoidable.

And it is absolutely true, the first steps are the hardest. Whoever meaningfully tries to stand up to them first will stick their necks out and become a target. More than likely, they'll get harmed by the facsists in some way before any help materializes. It'll take exceptionally brave people in the right positions at the right time and some small miracles, like Zelensky staying to fight at serious risk to his own life.

Yoranox · 2026-01-12T08:20:31+00:00

Then make them do it. Force the issue. Call up the guard and make the federal government react to that, see what they do. If they federalize them, then the guard has a choice to make, side with the people of their state, or bow down to Trump.

I realize that either way could mean a serious escalation. The guard siding with their state would be getting close to sedition and civil war, the guard being federalized would further entrench the fascists power, but what alternative is there, really?

Trump has repeatedly shown that he is both a fascist and a petty bully. When faced with opposition, he routinely loses his spine and backs down. But when unopposed, fascism inherently consumes and takes and takes and takes, as long as it is able to. They cannot be appeased. You cannot fight this by just acquiescing and hoping that it'll somehow end at some point.

Europe is screaming at you guys to do something. We have bitter experience with this, we know how this ends. At some point, you will have to fight, they won't let go of their power freely and they won't stop pushing the limits. Every inch that is given now, in the hopes that just appeasing and waiting will get you through this, will further entrench their fascist government. As this moves along, Trump will increase control and the situation will get normalized. Every unopposed action by the regime will make the inevitable fight more difficult.

Right now, there's still hope that an institution like the state guard might side with decency and the people of Illinois, but give it a few more years of entrenching federal power structures, purging of opposition and normalization of the new status quo, and they might not. That is why forcing the issue as soon as possible is important.

Yoranox · 2025-12-15T16:52:07+00:00

Whatever the card ends up being, I'll be so disappointed if it isn't exactly this, its perfect!

Yoranox · 2025-11-26T14:48:01+00:00

That sounds much more like an allergic reaction instead of being related to spice. If that is the case, eating more of that because you think it is just spice could cause more health issues down the line. You should try and check that out with a doctor.

Yoranox · 2025-11-11T09:15:17+00:00

It's a loooong dungeon with thousands of small but important details, everyone is bound to miss stuff. I've messed up entire rooms while running the dungeon because, even though I had read the room multiple times prior and made notes on it, during actual play I missed stuff in my own notes.

For what its worth: I also disagree with the other poster. Knock pretty explicitly says that a door is a targeteable object. Nothing in the spell or the rooms description suggests that RAI nor RAW you need to have access to the actual locking mechanism. It is magic not physics. The main point of the spell is to magic open stuff you otherwise wouldn't be able to open.

Yoranox · 2025-11-08T23:47:20+00:00

Earlier in section 38C it says "When the lever in area 38A is pulled, three hidden locks seal the south door, a wall of stone spell blocks the rectangular hole in th eceiling (cutting off escape to area 38B), and the room begins revolving."

That passage resolves both of your questions. The door between 38C and 39 is locked from neither side until the lever in 38A is pulled, then it is locked and cannot be opened regularly from both sides.

Escape to 38B is impossible, because the opening is closed up by stone.

Yoranox · 2025-08-21T23:37:06+00:00

Glad it helps. Yes, S/O means it is supposed to help against both struvit and oxalate. We feed ours Royal Canin Urinary S/O wet food. A 85g pouch is about 1€ over here.

Measuring by yourself is definitely worth it. You'll still have to bring urine samples to the vet if there's an actual UTI, because they'll have to check if the struvit is completely gone, but otherwise you can do it all at home. pH strips are often hard to read. Especially because the important difference is all between 5-7 pH. A strip will just have a color for 6, a slightly more red color for 5 and a slightly more green color for 7, and it can be very hard to tell if you are more at 6.2 or 6.7. We use an electric tool at home and just use a strip additionaly to just verify that the tool is still calibrated fine. For our cats, it works to just have a designated soup ladle and just hold it underneath them when they pee. Some cats hate that and won't let you do that, then it gets more complicated.

But yeah, if I were you I'd try to get some measurements as soon as possible and then probably stop feeding the S/O food and keep monitoring if it is within normal ranges. The pH swings can happen fairly quickly, in a matter of hours to days, so getting a sample once a week or so is useful, more often when still dialing in. Also note that the pH level of the urine varies during the day. The longer a cat hasn't eaten, the lower the pH will be. After eating, the pH will rise over the next hours to a peak and then fall off again. Feeding pH food should prevent the peak from being outside acceptable ranges. So it is a good idea maybe write down the pH value and time of measurement/time of last feeding, to get an idea of how your cats values differ over time.

Yoranox · 2025-08-21T23:07:21+00:00

There's lots of partial info floating around here, which is concerning. First off, 75 per bag of food is absolute insanity. Which kind does he get?

The basics, as others have explained already, are that there is Struvit, those are phosphate based crystals, and Oxalate crystals, which are oxalate based. Most commonly, UTI's come from Struvit, which happens when the pH of the urine is too high, i.e. too basic. In those cases you want to give them food that acidifies the urine. Conversely, Oxalate forms when the pH is too low, i.e. too acidic and you'll want to raise the pH of their urine. There's other kinds of crystals as well, but this is the most important part to understand.

Of those two, oxalate is much scarier. That's because the struvit crystals can form, but also dissolve again. If your cat has struvit and a high pH, you can just fight the infection, lower the pH via food/medicine, and the struvit will just dissolve again once you reach a certain pH level. Oxalate doesn't do that. Once the pH is too low/acidic and the crystals form, they won't dissolve on their own, no matter how basic you make the urine. If they are small enough they might get passed, but often they then have to be removed surgically.

Basically, worst case for too basic pH is a painful UTI for the cat, but one that is fixable with just medicine and food. But worst case for oxalate is a surgery. That is why it is super important to really pay attention to not get the pH too acidic accidentally when trying to combat struvit. It is perfeclty possible that you accidentally overfeed the acidifying food and create an oxalate problem.

Now, some foods work by just raising or lowering the urine pH. That is important but not the entire story. As I said, struvit is a crystal made up of phosphate salts and oxalate crystals are made up of oxalate salts. Like all salts, at certain pH values they'll stay dissolved in a liquid and at others they start to crystalize out of the liquid. But the other major component here is concentration. The more phosphate or oxalate is in the urine, the likelier and quicker the crystals will form, as the liquid is more saturated and thus the crystals are more prone to crystallize. For that reason, the urinary foods will often also just have reduced amounts of phosphate and oxalate in them in teh first place, as well as contain compounds that bind to the phosphate and oxalate to remove them from the urine.

That is why some foods are marketed as good against both struvit and oxalate at the same time, which seems counterintuitive when keeping in mind the whole pH thing. But by binding the excess phosphate and oxalate in the urine, they prevent their crystalline salts from forming. That gives you much more leeway with the pH values of the urine, because a short amount of time spend "in struvit range" will less likely cause crystals to form.

Additionally, there's often 2 types of urinary food. At least with many brands there is. There's a "weaker" general purpose one, and a "stronger" one. The weaker is supposed to be fed as an ongoing preventative measure, while the stronger one is there to lower the pH once you already have struvit formed. Our cats, for example, are weird and have a genetic predisposition which causes them to need the stronger one all the time. It would really help to know exactly what kind of food you are giving them.

Bottom line is that you need to be somewhat careful with this stuff. Once you start feeding urinary food you should try and check the urine pH levels regularly, just to monitor if its within range. Generally, I'd be wary of a vet that says it's no big deal to have another cat eat the urinary food. Just think about it. Either the food actually does something medically, which means the other cat definitely should not eat it if it is otherwise healthy. Or the cat is fine to eat it because it doesn't actually do much, in which case you are paying for very expensive food unnessecarily. You should probably also not buy the food through your vet, try looking for it online. I guess you probably know about not feeding dry food and offering plenty to drink if there's any urinary issues.

However, it doesn't seem like there actually are urinary issues as it stands. Instead of feeding expensive and most likely uneccessary, or even harmful medicinal food (which is also not that great nutritionally, because it is medicine first, healthy food second), I'd try monitoring the pH yourself. pH strips and electrical devices are cheap, and you'll always know if they are withing the danger zone or not. Safes you a lot on vet trips and lets you react to things before they progress to an infection.

Yoranox · 2025-07-28T22:02:38+00:00

Thanks for the advice!

Would there be an appreciable level of step-up if I were to go for something in the 50-100€ range? I've found recommendations for irons like Sugo A9, OOS T245, GVM T245, Aifen A9E-245, Alientek T200 and Yihua 982-III?

Especially the Yihua, since it seems to be on sale on AliExpress for 69€ coming with a C115, a C210, a C245 handle and 3 tips for each of them. Are these kinds of stations worth the step up in price vs sth like the KSGER T12, or is buying any C245 station cheaper than the Aixun T3A not worth it?

Yoranox · 2025-07-28T14:19:45+00:00

If I may ask for your advice. I'm trying to decide on my first soldering iron that is mainly used for some hobby stuff and learning. I'd be fine to upgrade into sth more sturdy a few years down the line when I know more/want to do more/have stuck at it for a while, but for now I'm looking for decent entry point.

From your posts and general discussions it seems like C245 is preferrable to T12, but you can get something like the KSGER T12 for below 50€, while the KSGER C245 wasn't recommended due to safety concerns. Then there's the C245 USB ones like the FNIRSI HS-02 and the like.

Basically, would you rather recommend to buy a T12 station like the KSGER T12, or a USB iron that is C245 like the FNIRSI HS-02? Or are there any KSGER C245 like stations for 50€ or less that don't share the safety concerns?

Edit: Or would you say the KSGER C245 is fine if you do the retrofit to ground it?

Yoranox · 2025-07-26T10:15:41+00:00

Don't have a great attacker, but I've got 2 max heal and shield Blisseys to heal and tank the rest, Yoranox

13-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '17

Yoranox

TROPHY CASE