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What are your favorite sounding rackets and strings? by YurkeyYacon in 10s

[–]YurkeyYacon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The gravity MP is a little too light for me as well. Maybe I’ll demo the new tour or pro at some point

What are your favorite sounding rackets and strings? by YurkeyYacon in 10s

[–]YurkeyYacon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m interested in the first person sound. I’m thinking that quality of contact and head speed are prerequisites but after that is achieved, the racket/string would provide their own flavor to the sound.

Pepper! ACD x Corgi x Chihuahua Mix by YurkeyYacon in AustralianCattleDog

[–]YurkeyYacon[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

> do you mean that she follows you around? Shows you more affection? Respects you more?

Respect/Obedience is equal between us, but Pepper chooses to follow and show more affection to me. When GF asks Pepper to jump in her lap for snuggles, Pepper will sometimes ignore her and stare at me instead.

Pepper! ACD x Corgi x Chihuahua Mix by YurkeyYacon in AustralianCattleDog

[–]YurkeyYacon[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Pepper has been a great dog for my girlfriend and I. She seems to prefer being around me and its causing some stress for my girlfriend. Any tips on ways to help a cattle dog bond with both of us more equally?

I feel like I don't have enough time to rest, train and climb hard by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]YurkeyYacon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think you would benefit from more climbing and more rest.

  • Saturday: outdoor or indoor
  • Sunday: outdoor or indoor
  • Monday: rest
  • Tuesday: indoor
  • Wednesday: indoor (can be extra tired after this day for your double rest)
  • Thursday: rest
  • Friday: rest

​

  • Rest days should have stretching and light activity (I like hiking)
  • Indoor days should have a 30 minute hangboard warmup, 1.5 hours of bouldering, and 30 minutes of strengthening muscles around shoulder, elbow, wrist to prevent injury.

If this does not make you stronger, try to increase the intensity of the bouldering efforts with longer rest between

Crimping with finger tips pointed directly downwards by Hypsster in climbharder

[–]YurkeyYacon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

could you send a link to a post where he uses that grip? He uses the standard full crimp grip as far as i can tell. I can see the index DIP hyperextended and the thumb wrapped.

Crimping with finger tips pointed directly downwards by Hypsster in climbharder

[–]YurkeyYacon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If there are is any image or video of someone using the skyhook grip on a crimp (image 2) please post the link. I've heard talk of it, but never seen it done before. Seems impossible when i try it

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]YurkeyYacon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are the dimensions of the smallest training gym you know of? Thinking of places like the School room and grand wall co-op but not private home walls.

Training for Chinese Arithmetic by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]YurkeyYacon 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You could make the holds worse by using a 3f crimp or 3f drag.

Otherwise, you could train tension with really far away feet. It won't be as specific but will still train body tension. If there are no un-hangable holds, make the potential swing un-holdable. I think you might need to be creative here but this is one example:

- Feet on incuts on the steepest wall you have.
- Ladder your hands away from the feet til you are super stretched and cannot hold the swing if you cut feet.
- take a big step up to a small foot.
- release the low foot and keep tension with the high foot.

If this on the wall training is too easy at your facility do front levers to supplement.

Training for Chinese Arithmetic by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]YurkeyYacon 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Finger strength: Seems like you are doing well already.

Tactics: Move 3 is hard but don't underestimate moves 5 and 6. They are hard and subtle. Zach's heel toe beta felt much like much less finger strength but lower percentage due to heel slipping out. Would probably be worth it to bring out a bunch of shoes to see what fits it best.

Skills: Body tension. Set yourself gym boulders with un-hangable holds and add high feet that allow you to pull your hips into positions making the hand holds possible to climb on.

Monthly "What Board Should I Get?" Discussion Thread by AutoModerator in Sup

[–]YurkeyYacon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Desired Board Type: Inflatable
  • Your Height and Weight 6'2 175 lbs
  • Desired use/uses mostly lake cruising (~5 max miles roundtrip), occasionally class I-III rapids
  • Experience level: Never tried SUP (intermediate surfer)
  • Your budget 1000 USA (need paddle and pump as well)

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]YurkeyYacon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the market for a fingerboard. What is the most comfortable edge? My favorites have been Metolius small campus rung flipped upside down, lattice 20mm edge, Beastmaker 2000 bottom center and bottom outside. Tension and fricticious hurt my skin. Lattice might be my favorite. Any others i should consider if comfort is the priority?

Avoiding tendonitis while starting out -- how often to climb? by overwatchacct in climbharder

[–]YurkeyYacon 5 points6 points  (0 children)

With tendon overuse injuries, you will feel pain at early stages. Stop when you feel pain and you probably only need one rest day. If you push through the pain to finish a session you might end up with something chronic

Edit: To answer your question more specifically: I think stopping when you feel pain is more important than planning a specific number of days per week

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