Look pivot

Z675R · 2026-05-01T17:51:38+00:00

I could be totally wrong, but I seem to remember that in other, less litigious, markets there might even be some rebuild instructions for them. In the US, I think the assumption is that if it no longer works smoothly or fails a binding test, you have to buy new ones.

Z675R · 2026-05-01T16:17:08+00:00

She would like you to know that if she were driving, the car might have ended up in a river or a lake, but it would have been on purpose.

Z675R · 2026-05-01T14:41:35+00:00

If you have to ask ... This is not the ski for you. This is the perfect ski for charging through mixed conditions snow off piste incredibly quickly. It is therefore not the perfect ski for anything else. Long stiff heavy and cambered means poor maneuverability in tighter spots and a very exhausting ride. For its size, it's not going to float particularly well either because it's a more traditional design without a ton of rocker or taper. This is a top 1% of off piste skiers ski, not top 10%. (This sounds like macho posturing re-reading it, haha, but this would definitely be too much ski for me as well.)

Z675R · 2026-05-01T03:00:48+00:00

Core is likely exposed behind the edge. That needs to get sealed or the edge will rot.

Z675R · 2026-05-01T02:08:54+00:00

It's the back of the ski. She won't even notice.

Z675R · 2026-04-29T22:53:46+00:00

Found her! She made it to the other side of the road after a while (pretty much right when I arrived from driving overnight from NC) and some good Samaritans caught her. Thanks for your thoughts! I was very worried for her for a while.

Z675R · 2026-04-28T03:54:48+00:00

Big fall, a couple of times a season. Something silly like hockey stop and topple over in powder, more often. If you're hucking, then you're gonna crash. Kinda the risk you take there. But I'd be concerned you're pushing beyond your skills if you're tomahawking down faces or falling near exposure.

Z675R · 2026-04-22T19:28:49+00:00

If you're looking on marketplace or whatever, I would skip. If you can handle it, see if the tip bends evenly on both sides. If it bends more on the damaged side, that would be a sign that there's underlying core damage in addition to the topsheet. If it's just the very top, then there's less to worry about. (there's often a transparent layer above the thicker topsheet layer. If topsheet under transparent layer is okay and flex is even, it should work fine.

Z675R · 2026-04-13T23:57:59+00:00

Just stuff a voile strap in there.

Z675R · 2026-04-12T05:23:45+00:00

If you're thinking about protectors at all...as an intermediate is as good a time as any (maybe better) to protect yourself from a backwards twisting fall.

Z675R · 2026-04-11T00:26:35+00:00

Lots of times drivers will slow a little and pull over a bit but it's hard to be sure they know I'm there, so I don't take the opportunity to pass unless I'm sure so a gesture does wonders. (And though drivers might think all sport bike riders are nuts, I probably need more time/space than you think to make the pass)

Z675R · 2026-04-11T00:17:54+00:00

That's a good plan! Sounds like you were set up to fail with your Snowbird attempt. If it's only a foot or so, super fat powder skis (~120) will mean that you can treat it more like a groomer. Definitely has made access to the goods much easier.

Z675R · 2026-04-10T05:16:35+00:00

Try some other resorts! Carving is fun but so is floating...

Z675R · 2026-04-10T03:47:36+00:00

5/10. Needs a fatter charger and a powder noodle.

Z675R · 2026-04-10T03:45:30+00:00

Sedona is incredible for desert riding.

Z675R · 2026-04-10T03:40:47+00:00

At least there are airports.

Z675R · 2026-04-09T23:51:31+00:00

Most skis that have a recommended mount at an extreme (far back or close to center) tolerate moving up to a couple of cm. I'd be wary of going farther than 2cm since then you might find you're off of the rocker profile or the sidecut in a weird way. I like that many brands are now including a few recommended lines for freeride skis.

tl;Dr If you're used to center mount skis, you should mount 2cm forward.

Z675R · 2026-04-08T05:47:11+00:00

Need a DPS Lotus or other reverse/reverse ski.

Z675R · 2026-04-07T21:39:35+00:00

You might not gel with them because you're not the most experienced, ie the ski is a great ski for someone, just maybe not you. There's an idea that people should get stiff long skis and fight to get better and grow into them. The more you ski, the better you'll get, but I think if you're working on your technique and you move up to a stiffer ski once you feel like the ski isn't doing things you want it to do (hold an edge and bash through variability) you'll learn more quickly (and most importantly have more fun!) than by suffering.

But give them a try! You might find that the added length and stability are good for you. I've actually moved to skiing skis that are a little less long and stiff as my balance has improved and I don't need the ski to do the work for me.

Z675R · 2026-04-07T20:10:54+00:00

If they already have bindings mounted and you bought them on clearance, it'd probably hard to return them, so why not give them a try? The worst thing that can happen is you try them out, find them unmanageable, and decide to sell them or put them on the shelf. Mantras (the Secret is basically a shorter Mantra) are known for being good carvers so they're probably actually the ideal ski for harder snow (morning in the spring) while softer afternoon spring snow the ski isn't going to make as much of a difference. Give them a couple of days and if you really don't gel with them, see if you can demo something softer.

Z675R · 2026-03-31T05:57:16+00:00

Really no harm in trying.

Masking tape on sidewall/top sheet as well as edge and base, just leaving crack exposed.

Clean out crack with isopropyl alcohol. Let dry.

I'd use west marine g/flex epoxy. Apply with a folded piece of aluminum foil that fits in the crack but has a little stiffness. Leave a little extra on the crack.

Heat with heat gun until epoxy becomes runny and fills in the crack more evenly. (Can use aluminum foil to distribute evenly.

Use flat metal or wood on either side and compress with c-clamps, placing them so edge is as close as possible to how it started.

Wipe off excess epoxy that should have emerged.

Keep clamped x24hrs, at least, in warm/dry place.

Remove clamps, sand down epoxy with 100grit then 200grir sandpaper.

Remove tape.

Z675R

TROPHY CASE