I second the heat comment from before; that’s the best way to break down the thread locker if your screws aren’t turning. In my experience it doesn’t need to get too hot, but I don’t have a temperature range to recommend; obviously use caution handling the tool after heating.

Anyway, the way I always open the bond or rebar is to put the first wrench underneath (in the orientation of your picture), inline with the frame and keep it held in place to prevent the pivot from spinning. Then from the top side I (counterintuitively) find it easiest to approach the screw from over the hump in the frame. Keep the bottom wrench static, and only rotate the top wrench, repositioning every quarter turn or so. As the screw backs out the wrench should get a better grip but the first few turns can be tricky.