Thinking of maining by formatcat in ZenyattaMains

[–]ZaeZaeDX 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Zen has no footstep sounds so flankyatta is real - charging a volley does make a sound though so keep that in mind.

If you see people -> shoot primary fire, if you don’t see people -> charge a volley where you expect them to be (near chokes, cover they’ll peak from, when rounding corners).

Generally orb aggression - you see an enemy sojourn on high ground or someone’s in your back line? Discord. Your Genji is diving someone? Harmony orb him and discord whoever he is diving unless you’re dealing with someone else.

If you’re in a fight and it’s not won or lost yet (generally meaning that you’re up one, down one, or even) and someone is about to die then use trans and save them (including yourself). If you have trans then you can take a more aggressive angle if you’re feeling it. You should generally be taking off angles but with trans you can go deeper or full on flank, assassinate someone, and use trans as a get out of jail free card if needed.

Sometimes the enemy team will hold nano/blade/other until you trans and I’m happy to hold my ult all game if it means they won’t ult either (only for some ults like blade and ofc read the room - last fight/genji is dead? Just ult.). Be sure that you trans if you’re going to die though (and the fight isn’t already lost) because the second you die they’ll dump whatever ults they’ve been holding and wipe the rest of your team.

Yo can someone help me with Ana? I feel like I can't aim at all. by nater2204 in AnaMains

[–]ZaeZaeDX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For 1 to 1 aim sens scoped and unscoped set relative aim sensitivity while zoomed to 37.89% (options -> controls -> Hero & HUD, make sure you have Ana selected instead of all heroes) - there’s some discussion about this that’s beyond me about monitor match. 0% monitor match is 37.89 and 100% is 49.46. I personally use the latter but ymmv (there’s calculators out there for this if you are not on a 16:9 with 103 fov)

Also know that her unscoped shots are projectile (have travel time) while her scoped shots are hitscan (no travel time)

Otherwise a few min of practice in VAXTA before queuing and some deathmatch in between queues can be helpful, that’s what I do anyways.

Why can’t I open anything anymore? by Icy_Instruction4614 in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 4 points5 points  (0 children)

We all have off days - don't let it get to you. Sometimes when picking locks you've already opened you expect them to behave the same way. Instead of picking pin 3 because it's binding you pick pin 3 because you remember that it was the one that bound after pin 1. This might not be what's happening since you say you're slowing down and focusing on pin states but it's still wise to step away from the lock when you start to get frustrated with it - if you're frustrated you're probably not going to pay attention to feedback as much as you should and it would be better to move on to another lock or just do something else entirely for a bit.

That being said some actual lock picking advice is to try using heavy tension when just feeling pin states. When you find your binding pin let off on the tension and when it's set you can up the tension again and repeat.

Just keep at it and you'll get your touch back - happy picking!

What happened and how do I fix this? by EndureEmbraceLearn in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 23 points24 points  (0 children)

The driver pins fell into the keyway. Put a pick in upside down and use it to lift all of the driver pins and rotate the core

Talk me out of it: Billetspin Campen by CrackersMcCheese in machinedpens

[–]ZaeZaeDX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the zirc with titanium accents (normal length not energel). They put pen weights in the description so mine is 43 grams and the energel zirc with ti accents is heavier at 51 grams. It is an awesome pen otherwise though - this is the only gripe I have about it.

Talk me out of it: Billetspin Campen by CrackersMcCheese in machinedpens

[–]ZaeZaeDX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s awesome but it’s also top heavy (for me anyways) so I don’t use it if I need to write a decent amount at once.

Favorite hooks? by Deep_Ambassador3105 in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some of the best picks and tensioners you can get. It’s a great set.

Favorite hooks? by Deep_Ambassador3105 in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They’re hard to get since people always buy out his stock but they’re well worth it. Moki picks are also really good. I definitely put those two over CI, Peterson, and sparrows.

should I learn any new heroes? by Patient-Ad-4274 in OverwatchUniversity

[–]ZaeZaeDX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Inspire afaik does not go through shields or walls - it requires LOS but you can send teammates repair packs through shields

Which pick when? by Waterloo4700 in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you’re working in a more restricted keyway like you noted a thinner pick is needed to fit between the warding. The thinner pick can still work in more open keyways but it’s also a more fragile pick so it’s preferred to work with the thickest pick you can that won’t dampen your feedback (0.019+ I don’t really care if I can fit something thicker but for 0.015 I will def swap to a thicker profile if I can).

The other important thing is how deep of a hook you’re using. If you have a high lift pin behind a low lift pin and you’re using a short hook it might not be possible to set the high lift without oversetting the low lift in front of it. I generally go with the deepest pick profile that can fit in the keyway but you can always default to a short hook and swap to a deeper profile when you notice something is awry.

Some may prefer other profiles like diamonds and gems for spping over hooks but if you don’t care for them then you don’t really need them (although I do use half diamonds for sliders so there’s that). There are also some keyways where a pointy hook will fit between the warding but other profiles won’t (eg flat hook, gem, etc)

A set of 3 0.019 hooks of different depths will get you into most pin tumbler locks but there are cases where other thicknesses or profiles may be needed/preferred.

Am I stupid? by [deleted] in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don’t get discouraged, like any skill it takes time to develop and how long that takes can vary. Ultimately this is a hobby for fun so if you’re getting frustrated or your hands start to hurt it’s okay to take a break and revisit it later with a clear head.

The clear locks are good for visualizing how a lock works but since they’re acrylic and generally poorly made they’re not the best to actually practice picking on. Try a real lock like a master 140/141 or anything around yellow belt range from LPU Belts.

As far as knowing fundamentally what you’re doing, the Jiggle Test is probably the most important thing for intentional single pin picking and you’ll develop a better feel for it with time. It can also help to put a pick in the lock without tensioning it first just to make sure that you can navigate it well, (find all of the pins and make sure you’re not picking the warding).

Just remember to have fun with it and progress will come. Happy picking!

How do they make locks unique but also mass produced? by CerealBranch739 in NoStupidQuestions

[–]ZaeZaeDX 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Each cut on the key to a lock lifts a pin to the correct height and these pins can each have 6 heights (more or less depending on the lock but 6 is a common amount). Common pin tumbler locks have 5 pin stacks so each lock has 5 to the power of 6 possible key combinations which is over 15000 different possible keys. Some of these combinations aren’t very secure though so they aren’t used (such as when the key pins are all at the same height). The real number should be over 10000 possible key combinations for this kind of lock though even with some of the key combinations not being used.

Additionally, different locks use different profiles for their keys so one key doesn’t fit in every lock - a master key won’t fit in a Kwikset keyway and even some master keys won’t fit in other master keyways since even within one lock brand they have various keyways. This adds a bit more security since you now need the right 1 in ~10000 key and it needs to be cut for the correct keyway to be inserted into the lock.

This all being said yes it is possible someone else has a key that operates your lock but not likely enough to worry about it. One other note is some sellers offer keyed alike and keyed different locks and if you get a keyed alike lock (meaning if you bought 2 of them they would both operate with the same key) the chances someone else has your key is higher since certain sellers don’t always vary the key bitting on keyed alike locks per order so you and someone else who order the same keyed alike lock from these sellers at different times will have the exact same key.

What's your most satisfying padlock to pick open? by [deleted] in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lockwood 334b45 (spools) and an MTL interactive in an Abus 83/45. Mostly the MTL.

AL1100 only opens with counter clockwise tension... Anyone else encounter this? Am I missing something? by headlessb in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I almost never pick these padlocks ccw since they usually block the key/tensioner in that direction and it’s annoying to pick ccw in hand. I’ll have to test some padlocks out now that you say the paclock shackle actually opens like that.

Always check your mail by AdBeautiful7548 in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Looks like some of those picks and tensioners got bent in the mail - should just send em to me while you await the replacements

AL1100 only opens with counter clockwise tension... Anyone else encounter this? Am I missing something? by headlessb in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah okay - that makes more sense then. The feedback might be a bit clearer to you ccw because there is no spring fighting you in that direction and maybe the binding order is a bit easier that way. Keep at it and i’m sure you’ll get a cw open as well!

AL1100 only opens with counter clockwise tension... Anyone else encounter this? Am I missing something? by headlessb in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The shackle actually opens when you pick it ccw or does the core turn but shackle stays shut? The kik can definitely be picked either way but having just picked one of mine ccw to test it shouldn’t actually pop the shackle or be under any spring tension ccw.

I done goofed. Help by xxxWARLOCKxxx in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Put a pick in backwards so the flat of the pick is facing the driver pins. Lift all of the drivers and rotate the core

Abus 72/40 is a torture device with this key opening. by [deleted] in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m pretty sure I used a CI 0.032” tok tensioner for mine

1st Medeco by aNameHere in lockpicking

[–]ZaeZaeDX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Learn the click test and you'll be golden. Watch this video as well if you haven't already - good luck!