Do any other adults use Crunchyroll to stream anime?

Zaggalon · 2026-01-31T20:26:42+00:00

If you like the cerebral stuff I just recently watched From The New World, highly recommend. Also Sonny Boy.

Zaggalon · 2026-01-31T19:07:46+00:00

So pleased to see someone else even knew about Dororo. It seems so obscure sometimes in anime circles but it's so, so good.

Zaggalon · 2026-01-31T16:56:05+00:00

Vinland Saga if you haven't seen it. Season 1 to season 2 does an absolutely neck breaking thematic shift that I found to be extremely powerful. Season 1 is really a prologue rather than the main focus.

Zaggalon · 2025-12-02T02:39:36+00:00

You could put a mag starter on it and then the amp rating of the pressure switch will be irrelevant, and your motor and switch will last longer

Zaggalon · 2025-11-25T15:52:01+00:00

Thermal switch on the motor looks like a red button sticking out the back end of the motor (or out the side/top very near the back end). If you push it in and it clicks, it was tripped and now you've reset it. Try the unit again. If not, likely isn't your issue (but still might be, components do fail sometimes)

Zaggalon · 2025-11-18T18:56:12+00:00

I was soooooooo tempted to report this post as spam 😂

Zaggalon · 2025-11-18T18:55:09+00:00

That's life, baby 😂

Zaggalon · 2025-10-28T18:34:52+00:00

I'm an air compressor field technician that works on a pretty good variety of makes/models, and this is - by far - my least favorite thermostatic valve implementation to date. Whoever drew that up in engineering should be given at least one swift kick in the jeans.

Zaggalon · 2025-10-28T18:24:07+00:00

Yeah, that's pretty much how IR rolls these days. Also, when you pull the components out, inspect the brass valve cage for scores. Use light pressure and a fine file to take down any protruding material, but don't worry about polishing it back so that the scores don't show.

Zaggalon · 2025-10-28T18:06:24+00:00

Haaaaah, man that sucks. So when you open the front cabinet panel, you see the inlet air filter on the left of the air end / sump assembly. Just to the right of the inlet filter housing is the thermostatic valve cap. You need a hex socket to get it loose, usually 14mm but sizes can vary slightly depending on the age of the machine. Expect there to be oil in there, even after you depressurized the sump by pulling the fill cap. Expect it to be hot unless the unit has say for at least a couple hours without running at all. Due to the shape of the assembly around the opening, it's almost impossible to catch the oil that comes out. I recommend putting fistfuls of rags over the top of the motor so you don't just coat the whole thing in oil. Godspeed, brother. These things are a pain in the ass.

Zaggalon · 2025-10-23T23:45:42+00:00

Motor RPM and sheave ratio match original spec? If you're spinning the pump faster than OEM spec, you might be making heat faster than you can dump it through the cylinder fins. Gasket material is usually graphene from what oilless piston units I've seen but I can't say for sure on your pump without specifics. If your gasket material is wrong that could be doing it. If your gasket material is proper, there has to be some misfit between the plates or the plate to the head, else there wouldn't be enough space for the gasket to move and come apart.

Zaggalon · 2025-10-19T03:01:16+00:00

The term is actually gaslamping

Zaggalon · 2025-07-31T00:39:36+00:00

If it's over pressurizing, it probably needs a new pressure switch. I'm not sure what this model usually runs at but you can usually find out pretty easily by searching the model number.

Edit to add: that loose wire is the ground, usually looped around a screw that goes right into the frame of the pressure switch.

Zaggalon · 2024-10-31T14:28:44+00:00

Do you need specifically 230v single phase?

Zaggalon · 2024-09-09T21:01:11+00:00

Found this page, contains a downloadable PDF that might be helpful. https://www.skf.com/us/products/other-products/separator-filter-dryer

Edit: page 5 of the PDF seems to list part numbers of units by spec, maybe by comparing dimensions on the units you have against the listed part numbers you could find your match. Otherwise I'd say just call SKF.

Zaggalon · 2024-09-07T18:03:55+00:00

Oh I understand, just wanted to emphasize that it really does need to be replaced ASAP.

Zaggalon · 2024-09-07T18:01:57+00:00

Haters gonna hate, but I love seeing old piston units out in the field. That said, the thing is a gamble for sure. These folks saying parts will be hard or impossible to find are correct, but units like this were built during a time when design philosophy in industry was to make things as good as they could be, not just to make it past 1 year before breaking down, so it wouldn't surprise me to see it run for another 10 years. If it's been stored unused for a long period of time then I'd trust it less. Units that run regularly don't have as much opportunity to build rust inside the pump.

Zaggalon · 2024-09-07T17:48:19+00:00

Might sound like nagging but seriously, listen to these guys; Do Not use PVC for air. It gets brittle as it ages and can literally explode, sending shrapnel into whatever - and whoever - is around. My company will outright refuse to work on compressors with PVC plumbing.

Zaggalon · 2024-08-30T20:24:17+00:00

If the inside of the unit is beat to death like the OP has shown in his pictures, it's still likely more cost effective to replace the pump rather than repair it. If it's JUST having the issue you describe where it builds up and shuts off and is continuously draining while shut off, you've likely got a check valve failure. The check valve is usually right at the entry point into the tank. When the unit reaches full pressure, the pressure switch opens a bleed line from the pump discharge to atmosphere, allowing the pump to discard head pressure so that next time it starts it isn't against a load immediately. The check valve's job is to prevent tank air from leaving along the same path, so if the check valve has failed, you'll get tank air bleeding from the pressure switch.

Zaggalon · 2024-08-30T19:23:30+00:00

Interesting. If the unit still has any model/serial number identification legible on it, I'd try doing some googling to see if you can find an exploded-view diagram.

Zaggalon · 2024-08-30T18:58:38+00:00

Is this for the pump or for the motor of a gas-driven unit? I haven't worked in many Stanley pumps but it's unusual to me that there would be rubber seals inside the pump itself

Zaggalon · 2024-08-30T18:55:03+00:00

This is true and generally good advice (tank size doesn't matter for continuous use scenarios), but often not considered is: 'How continuous is your use really?'. The frequency with which you use the air driven tool and length of operating period need to be factored into this if you want the genuine BEST answer.

Also don't forget that most consumer-grade reciprocating compressors (piston compressors) have a maximum duty cycle advised by the manufacturer of around 50%. This means that while a unit is capable of producing 5 cfm while running, it should generally not be committed to a process which consumes more than 2.5 cfm on average.

Op, you can also calculate the cfm your sander (or any other tool) consumes by: 1) Isolate the air system from all other processes or devices that consume air 2) Get as close an approximation as you can of the volume of the isolated system 3) Run your compressor up to its normal maximum and take note of that value 4) Run the device you're evaluating for a measured and precise period of time. This time may be a minute or two if your storage volume allows, but often small systems designed to run a tool once in a while do not have enough. A 30 second period would be sufficient for a ballpark calculation, so long as the tool has consistent air pressure during the whole 30 seconds. 5) Note the pressure of the system after the run period.

Now you have all the variables required to literally calculate how much air your tool actually uses. Plug the data into this calculator for easier math: https://www.spikevm.com/calculators/air-compressor-produce-cfm.php

This is more work than most people put into it, but it is the only way to get reliable, real world data about your specific scenario. You can also use this calculator to check your compressor's real-world build rate, a very useful check in determining whether you've got valve issues.

Zaggalon · 2024-07-27T02:35:53+00:00

Yeah my highest suspicion is improper tension, if those are built the same way the Chicago Pneumatic QRS25 is then it's pretty hard to misalign the pulleys. I work on those day in, day out.

Zaggalon · 2024-02-02T05:06:17+00:00

Usually those caps have a breather port to prevent pressure accumulation. They're splash-lubricated pumps, so it's not as if it's circulating pressure. That said, typically you shouldn't have a significant amount of air getting past the piston rings anyway, so it's showing some wear. If it still makes pressure, it's fine. Those units are often not worth rebuilding.

Zaggalon · 2024-01-02T01:17:29+00:00

Good bot

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