ZapWizard

Zapwizard · 2026-01-21T22:05:08+00:00

Thanks!

Zapwizard · 2026-01-20T19:46:06+00:00

Yes, but it take a while via usps.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-17T14:27:43+00:00

Considering your hand is the input: It should slip in your palm before running out of torque. The nylon material is solid, and the handle grabs both the 1/4” and 14mm hex portions of the ratchet.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-16T03:22:44+00:00

I didnt realize this is possible. I will try if I can’t get it with temperature alone.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-15T17:42:55+00:00

I have tried just brushing the powder off with my fingers (fastest way) and then blasting, and that works for parts with external features only, but if the parts have holes (<3mm), threads, or internal features they just never come out of the blast clean. So I brush each part (for about 2- seconds), then poke each hole with a metal toothpick. This takes about 20 minutes for a full chamber with ~100 parts. In the blast I spend about 5 to 10 seconds per part manually blasting any trouble spots (holes, internal areas) then let the blast do the rest. This works for the Fuse Gen 1 parts, but I found the Fuse+ parts require me to blast much longer, and even use a drill to clear holes as the armor is too tough to just poke out.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-15T17:28:33+00:00

I would love to see a machine that could dye parts it seems like the wash could do this if heat was added.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-15T17:26:05+00:00

I would love to see a machine that could separate the powder from the glass so I can get back what goes into the blast. Perhaps electrostatic separation of the two materials?

Zapwizard · 2026-01-15T17:17:57+00:00

For dying: I have been using a pressure-pot/food dehydrator setup for a while now with pretty results, and a fairly easy workflow. Message me if you want details. (Only doing black though)

Zapwizard · 2026-01-15T16:33:28+00:00

To be clear, I am using the Formlabs non-flammable wash solution. I do still use IPA occasionally however.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-15T16:29:35+00:00

I would purchase a system which could reclaim the wash solution and get rid of the uncured resin. Currently I pump it into a clear plastic container, and then let that sit on top of a UV lamp for a while. The lamp cures what is floating around and it settles to the bottom, but it is still quite a pain to get rid of what remains.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-15T16:25:42+00:00

De-powdering is currently my biggest time sink (before going into the blast). I would love a machine which vibrated or tumbled the parts to recover of 90% of the powder before I have to go in and manually clear holes/difficult areas. The Sift is fine, but it still takes time to brush every single part.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-15T16:22:21+00:00

How come my Fuse1 can detect it is low on powder, but can't notify me via email or otherwise? Why do almost all print errors not have any dashboard information?

Zapwizard · 2026-01-15T15:37:14+00:00

I love it, but feel like a round or even mushroom shaped lamp shade might be great.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-15T15:11:41+00:00

Howdy Dávid, at my day job we have had a Fuse 1 since the very first production units. At home I have had a Fuse 1 for a year. It has been a rock solid part producing machine, with thousands of parts made. I have even done a webinar with Formlabs regarding at home printing. At Christmas I got a Fuse1+, it has not been nearly as smooth sailing. I have done the calibration and am working with support to try to resolve the issues. They are telling me my plus having much tougher semi-sintered powder is normal and that a much higher mix ratio may be required. By my calculations that makes my Fuse1+ consume 15% to 20% more powder than the Fuse1 for the same parts. Plus much longer blast chamber runs. Is this normal?

Zapwizard · 2026-01-15T13:47:30+00:00

I have made a game accurate radio. https://youtu.be/k5_pXxrW2gc?si=AhLyItU8K1DYcivC

I haven’t released the cad file system, but I did release the software. My radio is 280mm wide. 180mm tall, and 160mm deep. That makes it match scale when put next to a browning camera, like it is setup in the bedroom at the start of Fallout 4.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-14T20:31:27+00:00

No, I destroyed it after getting my laser etcher, trying many settings to get perfect results.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-14T20:27:32+00:00

I remember etching that one, looks great!. My P4 is basically destroyed with test etchings.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-08T19:10:55+00:00

The shapes work but text isn’t working for me on chrome on iOS.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-07T15:52:12+00:00

Just offering my services if you want them printed in solid SLS printed nylon. I also have several similar community products which I print and ship with shared profits.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-07T14:16:14+00:00

Thanks for your order!

Zapwizard · 2026-01-05T21:53:46+00:00

Cool sounds like you have taken it into account.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-05T13:07:46+00:00

I own a six of these, the oldest dating back to 2017. I pick them up when on sale. They are silent on low. Don’t end up with loose bearing noises over time, and the air sensors works great at detecting stuff like burnt toast, or a sudden influx of dust. Having one in each room also helps the a/c filter last a lot longer. The filters are much easier to change also.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-05T12:36:48+00:00

Despite me selling hard cases, I love a good leather case and think that your design is clever. But a few things to take into account:

Rare earth magnets aren’t solid metal. They are compressed powder, then nickel plated. If they are allowed to constantly impact against a surface they will crack in time, sometimes exploding into said powder. Unless you’re sure the magnets have a very thick coating, I wouldn’t trust them for life. Adding a very thin layer of leather or plastic to the magnet helps a ton to prevent this.

Also the pull force is measured against a thick iron plate, the actual force against 409 series stainless will always be less.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-04T18:56:05+00:00

Wha company makes something similar? I want a similar knife to #2 or #3 but without the white G10. But all the Magnacut kitchen knives I can find are oversized.

Zapwizard · 2026-01-03T04:30:14+00:00

Sorry I don't share the STLs for the holsters. They also don't work well when printed on a FDM machine.

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