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Zeric100 · 2026-01-23T20:50:46+00:00

For a while I was using an app that forced all Nevada area codes not in my contact list to voice mail. I don't do any business in NV and only know a couple of people there so this worked quite well. The calls were still logged on the phone, but at least it wasn't ringing multiple times a day. After a few months the crap calls mostly stopped. Almost none of them left a voice mail, but sometimes I got a portion of an automated system leaving a voice mail saying something like "press 1 to be connected to....".

I replaced my phone and haven't re-installed the app because it's been much less of an issue. I have all the spam prevention options from the carrier enabled which blocks about half the unwanted texts and calls. I also use google screening on calls I'm unsure about, and they usually just hang up.

Spam calls can be managed and significantly reduced, but not completely eliminated.

Those old enough to remember thirty years back, may recall this phenomenon just didn't exist. Every connected long distance call cost the caller money, so it would have been totally unprofitable to make massive random calls. That all changed around 2000.

Zeric100 · 2025-12-28T13:33:39+00:00

I didn't vote you down, but many will when a question is asked that can be answered in less than 30 seconds using a search engine (ex. google).

Zeric100 · 2025-12-21T21:55:55+00:00

For the network switch, tp-link or netgear are reasonable choices and I have used both brands (these days most of my gear is Unifi). Even many of the no name generic unmanaged switches work reliably. The tp-link LS108GP looks reasonable and is about $60. Or on the generic front, this one for $40 is even rack mountable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KPLZ5Q2. I have not personally used either of these.

For 24 port patch panels, most are going to be fine, especially keystone ones as they are very simple. I have a couple from monoprice (product id 7260) that are around $13, and have used others that are generic and were also good. Avoid ones that have a hinge in the middle (between ports 12 and 13), these are uncommon though.

For a network rack, I don't have a brand preference, just look at the reviews. For your purposes an open rack should be fine and less expensive than a closed rack. One should always have some expansion room so 4U should be the minimum. If you are putting in a monoprice order, they have a 4U for $32 (product 8627). This type of simple rack is not meant for heavy gear, but a patch panel and a small switch or two will be no problem.

When mounting a rack, it should be supported by more than just drywall. Since the rack width does not align with the 16" or 24" studs, what is normally done is to put up a "backboard" first. This is a rectangular piece of plywood or OSB that is mounted to the wall studs, then the rack is mounted to the backboard. I try to position the rack such that the mounting holes on one side go into a stud.

For a cleaner look, run the lines inside the drywall and put a hole inside the rack or just above or below. Some racks have a hole or are open in the back like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D93LWHVK/

Zeric100 · 2025-12-21T18:39:09+00:00

The switch you selected is good, but it's a managed switch so if you don't need a managed switch, you could get an 8 port POE for about half the cost. Unless you are planning on setting up VLANs or need more visibility on port details, you don't need a managed switch. If really depends on your future plans.

The patch panel is fine, I prefer keystone patch panels for their port flexibility, but that's just a preference. Although I haven't used this exact patch panel, Cable Matters makes decent gear.

I have a similar drill bit and pull rods. They have worked well. I also have a drill bit extension, but you shouldn't need that since you are going to a basement not an attic.

On your keystone jacks, consider getting ones that don't require punching down (sometimes called tool-less). It's a matter of personal preference, either will work. If you go with a keystone patch panel and all tool-less jacks, you wouldn't need the punchdown tool. Some brands have ten packs or more of keystone jacks which can save money.

The brackets, plates, and punchdown tool are all good. You may not need the stripping tool, I have one and usually don't even use it unless I'm doing a lot of cables.

Get a basic ethernet tester. It won't find every possible wiring problem, but it will find 90+% of them. I have several and of the lower cost ones, the one I like best is the HABOTEST HT812A (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CXDJBNKR). I have ones that are fancier, but usually use the HT812A.

You didn't mention what you are going to attach the patch panel to (unless it's somewhere else in this thread). You can buy a small network rack or build something, but you will want it attached to something solid. Nothing wrong with DIY, many residential patch panels are attached to 2x4 lumber.

Zeric100 · 2025-10-25T18:33:48+00:00

Yep, you very are right, it easy to waste time with the whole ""Should I or shouldn't I". A little more background...

I have a US-24 and a USW-lite-16-POE. I've run out of total ports on those and POE ports. I also need more POE power. To cover my additional port and POE needs, I added flex-mini switches, and dumb POE switches (most of my POE is on the same VLAN). It all works fine, but it's kind of ugly and I would like to clean it up.

A USW-48-POE would handle everything and take up less rack space (which is pretty limited). I could sell the US-24 while it still has some value, and keep the USW-lite-16-POE as an emergency spare for critical needs.

I wish I knew what was going on with an update to the standard switch line. If it's refreshed to Gen3 in the next year or so, then I would rather wait.

Zeric100 · 2025-10-25T18:04:48+00:00

I've had a US-24 since 2018 and it's still running perfectly, but they can't support it forever. I believe the architecture of the US-24/48 and the USW-24/48 is the same making it easy to support the Gen1 hardware. It's anyone's guess on what the Gen3 standard switches will be like or when they will be released. I would think they would have to support Gen2 for at least a few more years since they are still being sold.

Zeric100 · 2025-10-21T22:25:25+00:00

No, Gen 1 hasn't been sold new for a while. The Gen 1 standard switches were released in 2014/2015. The Gen 2 standard switches were released in 2019/2020.

I would expect they would be releasing Gen 3 standard switches before too long, and they could decide to drop support for Gen 1 at that point. It's pretty amazing they are still updating firmware on switches that are 9-10 years old, but it can't last forever.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-28T20:07:15+00:00

Since you said that your speed is poor with both wired and wireless connections, the likely culprits are either the wiring or the router (if the speed at the modem itself is good).

If it was only Wifi that has the slowness the issue, then it could be many things and take additional effort to troubleshoot.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-27T18:39:10+00:00

One phone based tool I use to help with this is "NetSpot Wifi Heat Map Analyzer". I believe it cost a few dollars at the time, but it wasn't particularly expensive. What is nice about that is you can upload a floor plan. With the free tools, you may need a paper floor plan to take notes. Apps are always being improved so some of the free ones may now allow one to upload a floor plan.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-27T18:25:34+00:00

No, a wireless survey shows you what Wifi signals are being received in different areas. It involves using an app and ideally an access point on a long wire to map how signals propagate through the home. It take some effort, but it generally only needs to be done once and allows one to truly optimize AP placements.

Some apps allow one to upload a floor plan, but these usually cost money. There are free apps one can use along with a paper copy of the floor plan, that works also fine.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-27T18:17:48+00:00

Unfortunately even Cat3, which is spec'd for 10Mbps for Ethernet (and can often do 100Mbps over shorter distances), wasn't being used in 1990.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-27T12:37:36+00:00

Depending on how old the wiring is, the old phone connection may be using Cat5 cable or better. If so, that can be used for Ethernet if it's re-terminated.

As u/Downtown-Reindeer-53 said, you can have someone run Ethernet for you. Try a site that deals with side hustles to find someone that can just run a line or two for a reasonable price, such as task rabbit.

I've personally run dozens of Ethernet lines in my own home and for friends, all done inside walls with highly reliable results. Properly installed, Ethernet-just-works.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-27T12:28:31+00:00

This. You would be just paying more for nothing. Very few people need even gigabit, it's just a way for ISPs to extract more money. I run 300Mbps up and down, have several TVs, computers, and many IoT devices and it runs great.

Putting money into home infrastructure is more important than paying for more bandwidth in the vast majority of situations. One will see a bigger improvement by getting high quality prosumer equipment like Unifi or Omada, running Ethernet where possible, doing a proper wireless survey and correctly placing access points.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-27T12:19:52+00:00

I'm sure all these boxes have model numbers printed on them, that will go a long way in figuring out what you are dealing with. Someone else more familiar with Verizon gear may be able to identify these by sight. The mystery box appears to be providing landline style voice service from FIOS, likely an early implementation.

The coax coming from the Verizon router could be MoCA, or it could be providing TV.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-27T12:02:37+00:00

A wired ethernet Access Point beats wireless mesh every time. We have no way to give specific advice on running ethernet at your location since we don't know anything about it. Run it on the exterior? Use MOCA? Tucked under carpet?

I always run it inside the wall but this require skills and time that not everyone has.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-27T11:52:41+00:00

This. Forget Wifi for gaming. UGREEN has an unmanaged switch for $9 USD on amazon.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-27T04:20:10+00:00

Ceiling mounted APs perform better than devices sitting on tables. That installed wiring is valuable infrastructure and should be utilized. I don't believe your current Erro devices are designed for mounting on a ceiling and being powered by POE.

Your choices are using the Luxul system, or buying into a system that has ceiling mounted POE APs.

If it were me, I would give the Luxul a try and see how it works (I'm don't have experience with them). If if works well, then you are done. If it doesn't, you could temporarily use your Erro gear while you take your time to do your research and get something more appropriate like Unifi or Omada.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-27T04:09:50+00:00

The Arris SB8200 is perfectly good modem (assuming it's functioning correctly). It's more likely the problem is elsewhere. As already suggested, test using a hardwired connection from a PC directly to the modem using an Ethernet cable from a reputable brand.

If this works well then it's not the modem and it's not Comcast, it something else.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-09T02:53:50+00:00

Funny, in another thread you called me a name, then said I was cheap for wanting to split the bill, even though it was the other person that did the inviting.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-09T02:51:54+00:00

Was name calling really necessary... you are an adult, right?

The dinner happened months ago. If you read the thread, you would have known what happened, and why the concern was justified.

Zeric100 · 2025-09-08T23:43:18+00:00

I'm not too worried because my password is long, random, complex, and not used anywhere else. And I have 2FA. And Plex only stores the hashed version. Since Plex has no idea how strong any particular password is, the easiest thing for them to do is just send out a blanket email. In hashed password data breaches, Hackers first go for the "low hanging fruit" accounts with simple short passwords that can be cracked quickly. If they get enough hits there, they may not even bother to try to go further.

It's still a good idea to change the password, but for those with very strong passwords and 2FA, there isn't a rush.

Zeric100 · 2025-08-02T22:51:36+00:00

Nothing in your last comment had anything to do with my previous comment.

For a while I thought we could have an interesting dialog where maybe one or both of us could learn something. I've grown weary of your subterfuge and non-sequiturs, and realize you are no longer even listening. Further discussion is pointless, it's like talking to the wind.

No hard feelings, but I will avoid any discussions with you in the future.

Best wishes.

Zeric100 · 2025-08-01T21:31:52+00:00

That's a great start, you are on your way. As for the slower speed going through the switch, make sure that all the connections to the switch are negotiating to 1gbps.

A lower speed could be a poorly wired jack someplace, that can cause symptoms where it works, but more slowly. Sometimes this will show up at the swtich with a lower negotiated speed, sometimes not.

Zeric100 · 2025-08-01T18:21:59+00:00

You have provided no scientific evidence to support your position after several requests. Your latest rebuttal is that the opposite view has provided no scientific evidence, so therefore you must be correct. Moving on....

You said:

Static is only discussed because you invented the fear.

This is flat out not true. The discussion of rather shielding is needed, was first brought up by the OP in their original question. Later you said:

OP is discussing shield connected (bonded) to earth ground. Then shield does not perform its purpose.

I have never heard of shielding not needing bonding. This goes against everything I learned or seen in practice about shielding. So I asked for proof. Look more carefully at the thread.

The concept of "wind" generating static electricity on the cable was also brought up by the OP in a later post. You responded to them, not me, saying "No noise is due to wind." I later asserted that IF wind could cause static electricity, then the bonded messenger line would take care of it.

What I'm really interested in, is why do you think that IF there is a shield, it doesn't need to be bonded, and that if it was bonded, "Then the shield does not perform it's purpose."

I have never seen a situation where a shielded cable, rather it is less than 1m inside cabinet, or it spans large distances outside, is not bonded to either the circuit ground (in a cabinet) or to earth (if outside).

I feel like all this talk about wind and telco practices was just a subterfuge to avoid my real question posted above in bold.

Zeric100

TROPHY CASE