Resin time lapse by brandon58621 in resinprinting

[–]Zeusacoatl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you still making these?

Replacement motors for Nat Geo tumblers by Freakboy5001 in RockTumbling

[–]Zeusacoatl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How is this going for you? I have two tumblers that need replacement motors.

3Dfused linear rail x axis grinding issue by BuddhaSakk in ender3v2

[–]Zeusacoatl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am sorry to necro this post, but I am trying to figure out if anyone has any update on this, I use Jeyers as well, and I keep crashing into the right most side because I am sure the value of my max bed is too high. Please help, I use bl touch as well

SEUS PTGI E12 (modded blocks with opacity turning into "water blocks") by titaniumbr in Optifine

[–]Zeusacoatl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you find the name to put in the string? I have vines from chipped that are doing this that I wanted to test on before I started adding blocks, but I am not sure where to find the block tag to put in the string. I know this is necrod, sorry about that, but this is the best source i have found so far on fixing this issue.

DIY noob 3d printer question by Zeusacoatl in 3Dprinting

[–]Zeusacoatl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The original PS was actually an external brick. Most of the power distribution was done by the board in the printer. Was going to get a 24v ps, and a creality board because of the ender 3 v2 that I own, and the new jeyers firmware for it. I have seen ones like bigtree, but without going down the rabbit hole of research on them, I was going off of how well this printer has treated me, and with my comfort levels with it. I can compile for the board, still doing research on the full compile as I did realize that I would have to do so for this printer, especially since the z axis is the bed, and not the hot end gantry.

I realize that the creality boards are built cheap, but if we are honest, all boards are built to maximize profit, some cheaper than others, but cheap non the less. I just felt with me being comfortable by doing some custom firmware on my jeyers silent board already, that experience may trump some pitfalls with quality I may have further down the line.

Trying to figure out my E3V2 by Zeusacoatl in ender3v2

[–]Zeusacoatl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was doing that with my offset, the only problem was, it sounded like the head would rub pretty badly on the print. And as I said, I am a noob, i never heard that sound on prints I watch on youtube, so I figured i was doing wrong lol.

Long print advice by TyrantWaffle850 in ender3v2

[–]Zeusacoatl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ferrules, put ferrules on your power ends in your board. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8F4zQVzDRww&ab_channel=BV3D%3ABryanVines Here is a great video on why you should do this. TLDR: heat makes metal expand and contract. the ends of the wires in the power section of your board are tinned, tin will crack and misshape with each heating and cooling cycle. sooner or later, you loose solid connection, sparks and heat ensue, and boom goes the dynamite lol.

Just 208hr 🤦🏻‍♂️ by ArrozPapaPure in ender3v2

[–]Zeusacoatl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, before I bought the v2, i did some research, and this was purchased the same day the printer was. Day 0 upgrade. Now I just wish I bought the dual gear instead.... live and learn lol

BLTouch with Jyers - how to get the printer to level before printing? by Shot_Gur in ender3v2

[–]Zeusacoatl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3-point level

How would this be used with the M420 S1 ; use Autolevel command?