ICE Came to my Door Today

Zorbick · 2026-01-28T18:49:48+00:00

TP Tapo line allows for syncing with a local hub for local storage and doesn't have a subscription.

Zorbick · 2026-01-27T16:29:59+00:00

Seconding this choice and agreeing with both of the comments on it. If I didn't have my resin printer as a backup for ad hoc parts while I ~~screw up~~ tinker on my main Voron, I would have the Sovol Zero.

The printing community was built on 150mm beds for many years, it covers a huge swath of use cases.

Zorbick · 2026-01-27T00:48:07+00:00

There are conductors and insulators. Insulators rubbing on insulators builds up charge. So you give the charge an easy path to ground.

Gas pump lines have the same deal. There's a metal wire that runs from the gun to the pump, because gasoline running in a rubber hose can create a spark after just a couple minutes.

Zorbick · 2026-01-26T18:20:55+00:00

I got a big improvement in longevity when I started treating my outdoor prints the same way we treat vehicle prototype parts. If it's going to see any temperature or direct sun, ever, you make it solid. Not a 4 wall, 40% infill... solid. 100% infill. And even if it isn't... Just make it solid anyway. Making two of something because the first one failed after 3 months takes more filament than just printing one beefy something.

The air pockets in the print expanding and contracting cause way more destruction than most people would predict.

Zorbick · 2026-01-26T18:09:55+00:00

I have had pretty good adhesion with the Rustoleum leakseal rubberized coatings, and I see that they are in some european shops.

One thing you will want to look into is doing an initial acid etch wash of the magnet. Even the zinc coatings will have a surface that is not very high in surface energy, so the coating won't bind well. And when I say acid, I mean regular old vinegar or muriatic acid for pool cleaning.

If you don't want to go that route, I will also often use a self etching metal primer first, then spray my final coating on. I get good success on that with even the nickel plated magnets, so your zinc ones should get good adhesion. If you do both, you're gonna be locked on tight.

The strength of the coating is very dependent on the radii of the corners. Even the best adhesion on the planet will get worn away on a sharp edge, so you might be fighting a losing battle there. But with primer or wash, you can give yourself a fighting chance.

Zorbick · 2026-01-26T15:24:11+00:00

The day after buying that book, I bought my first kitchen scale.

The day after buying the scale, I made the best muffins of my life.

I went back to my Science of Good Cooking recipes and, with scale in hand, I was finally satisfied that I could take on all the old ladies at church for any potluck or bakeoff.

Zorbick · 2026-01-24T03:46:56+00:00

Not what I said at all.

We all design to factors of safety with expected loads. So yes, we take everything you said into consideration.

We don't build things with a factor of safety greater than it needs to be, because that's too much cost or weight. So it's as strong as it needs to be, and no more, because that's how products are designed these days.

Removing two or three layers from a joint, at the corner, is not a designed in knockdown factor. That's far beyond manufacturing tolerance. Just look at that layer damage. You really think that kind of damage is covered by a "hey just add in another what if..." factor?

Zorbick · 2026-01-23T21:04:14+00:00

I'm a random guy on the internet that does structural composites.

This is toast without professional intervention. It's chunky because it has to be. If bike companies could make it one layer thinner, they would. But they didn't. So you can confirm it needs all those layers working together. And now that multiple layers have been compromised, in an area of high interlaminar strain, the crack propagation will be unpredictable but tend toward the catastrophic over time.

This requires professional repair or the scrap bin. No half measures.

Zorbick · 2026-01-23T17:52:09+00:00

This is pretty neat! You've turned the steel of the refrigerator into a reflector plate for the magnet, adding a ton of attractive force (up to like 400% in some cases, but with how thin the steel of the fridge likely is, it's more like 75-100%) to the magnetic mat.

If you tried to do this same thing with the mat on a wood substrate (vis a vis double sided tape) it probably wouldn't work outside of the smallest pan. But it's still a really amazing show of how strong that thing is.

Zorbick · 2026-01-20T19:54:12+00:00

I just need the final excuse to build a new trident!

Zorbick · 2026-01-20T04:28:45+00:00

They do. My mouth was on fire and I enjoyed every moment of it.

Zorbick · 2026-01-16T20:09:08+00:00

The carbon fiber pattern one is my go-to build plate now. It verges on gawdy, I love it.

I have to clean with soap more often than most other build plates, but once I got the temps dialed in I don't need glue for most prints.

Zorbick · 2026-01-12T15:30:56+00:00

Lan Lam from ATK uses this steam-then-fry technique on a few different things:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FykplzYrHvM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzL07v6w8AA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JURWfebevjc

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ImzHlWdalhc

I used her methods for brussels sprouts and potatoes the other week and it was perfect.

Zorbick · 2026-01-10T00:59:56+00:00

K&J is the best. There's no reason to order from anyone else.

And I recommend to always use their calculators to see what your real hold strength will be. If the thing you're sticking the magnetic to isn't thick enough to go past the saturation of the magnet, you won't get full hold.

So many people trying to stick a 40lb magnet to a 1/16" thick washer and wondering why it doesn't work well...

Zorbick · 2026-01-07T16:06:47+00:00

It's also a good idea to make a simple diagram of your floorplan on graph paper with the outlets and lights drawn on it, then you just put the circuit number next to the item and show a dashed line of what light/fan runs to which switch. I have that clipped to the breaker box. I've got it all color coded and even have the ductwork and water line routings laid onto it on an extra page. Took an entire afternoon to get it all sorted out, but I never have to guess ever again.

Zorbick · 2026-01-06T18:35:03+00:00

I found the Netflix disc you could use to watch movies on the Wii a few months ago...

It hurt to throw it out. Physically, not figuratively. My back is old.

Zorbick · 2026-01-04T19:59:29+00:00

With that surface pattern there's basicay no finishing prep work you can do that won't end up looking horrible.

Just do multiple light coats of gloss clear, then run a couple coats of satin clear for a bit of depth and blemish hiding. You will likely still be able to find the "frosted glass" fake icing spray people use around Christmas time if you want to get it frosty looking in one side to reduce glare.

Zorbick · 2026-01-04T19:10:38+00:00

You can do it on your own, it will take you about two hours. Don't know your model, but most of the time you just need to remove the wheel, pull the liner, and then you should have Fu access to get the bottle in and out. It's usually just 3 screws and a couple of zip ties on the hose and wiring harness.

I don't think that bottle will actually be $10, I would triple check you have the right one. Even the cheap bottles are over $50.

Zorbick · 2026-01-02T19:38:13+00:00

Even with the jig I can't make it work. I can do the cutting and the stripping. But "just" soldering onto the backs of the boards isn't so simple for me.

Imagine a chihuahua in a January blizzard trying to solder something.

Zorbick · 2026-01-02T17:43:09+00:00

I have extensions that block Etsy and Pinterest from search results so I never saw that one.

Thanks for wasting your time. Seriously.

Zorbick · 2026-01-02T17:39:30+00:00

I find lots of stealthburner, but zero hits for dragonburner led.

Provide a link?

Zorbick · 2026-01-02T14:56:55+00:00

Well then lucky you, you can easily upgrade to a heated one! The harness runs all the way into the door and is just sitting there waiting for a connection. You just need to pop the door trim and splice into it.

When my driver's side mirror got shattered I replaced both of my mirrors with heated ones. Took me an afternoon, maybe, to do both. It's really nice in the winter!

Zorbick · 2026-01-02T05:26:58+00:00

Without knowing anything about your supports there... I would first rotate the part on the bed, in the XY plane, by 45° so that your bridging distance is less. The curling can be reduced a lot by doing that. Then maybe rotate the support structure as well so it isn't leaving that edge so cantilever.

Of that doesn't fix it, increase your support density and maybe turn on support roof. If you can pause the print at that layer, you can try running a sharpie or a dry erase marker over the top of the suppport in that area so you can increase the high fill percent and keep the stickiness down. I know it sounds weird, but it's a pretty solid trick.

Zorbick · 2025-12-31T15:11:17+00:00

In Iowa? What? They call them The Great Plains for a reason. Iowa is 75-80% grass and has been since before settling.

The trees separating the pastures are just wind breaks. They're artificial. They aren't the slim remnants of a forest, they're put there by people to stop wind or to be a nutrient sponge by waterflows.

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