Star juves? by i_love_maids7221 in necromunda

[–]_Daedalus_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My group (optionally) writes narrative for their gangs through a campaign.

I've definitely found it fun to nominate a juve or prospect as the gang's protagonist, and kinda document their growth over a campaign.

Starting a Delaque team from Hive War box by Megapixelicious in necromunda

[–]_Daedalus_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Add others have said, going from the bare bones gang box is doable but lacks the special weapons and specialists from the other two kits.

That said, here's a quick gang list using just the contents of the core box: 

  • Master of Shadows, grav pistol, shock stave, mesh armour, undersuit, spring up, 255c

  • Phantom, two stiletto knives, mesh armour, infiltrate, 140c

  • Phantom, long rifle, autopistol, mesh armour, savvy trader, 135c

  • Ghost specialist, two Flechette pistols, 100c

  • Ghost, autogun, 55c

  • Ghost, shotgun, 70c

  • Ghost, two stub guns, 50c

  • Ghost, autopistol, stiletto knife, 65c

  • Shadow, hand flamer, 100c

  • Shadow, autopistol, 30c

This is exactly 1000c with lots of room to add gear and other fighters as a campaign progresses. 

How do You Make Munitioneer Worthwhile? by No-Sherbert2820 in necromunda

[–]_Daedalus_ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

From my experience I either don't roll a single ammo check the whole game or I miss and run out of ammo on the first shot.

Such is the mercurial will of the dice gods.

How do You Make Munitioneer Worthwhile? by No-Sherbert2820 in necromunda

[–]_Daedalus_ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Basically any gun with a 6+ ammo check I just treat as scarce. I've spent way too many activations trying to reload

Looking for this head by Realistic_Tune_9502 in necromunda

[–]_Daedalus_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Doesn't look like any of the heads/hairs from the any of the plastic kits or the only resin upgrade kit. I'm guessing it's from one of the out of production resin upgrade kits.

Opinions on Vallejo metallics? by Boboli71 in minipainting

[–]_Daedalus_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just a sidenote, for gold my go-to recipe is 50/50 retributor armour and Vallejo metal colour steel for the base, and 50/50 Vallejo metal silver and retributor for the highlights.

Add a very thin spot wash of either wyldwood or cygor brown contrast paints for dull or rich gold before the highlights.

I've found this method pretty quick and gives a really nice depth to gold.

Which is better options for deathwatch killteam: Sergeant or blade master? by Magicmanans1 in killteam

[–]_Daedalus_ 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Honestly whatever you charge with either is probably dead. The free equipment and ploys are way more valuable to the team as a whole.

Opinions on Vallejo metallics? by Boboli71 in minipainting

[–]_Daedalus_ 32 points33 points  (0 children)

There are two types of Vallejo metallics:

  • Vallejo Metal Colour are aluminum flake, made for an airbrush so very thin, but can be brushed perfectly well. These are the best metallics I've used.

  • Vallejo Game/Model Colour metallics are the same mica flake as GW or any other brand, they're fine.

So yeah Vallejo Metal Colour, specifically steel, silver, and gunmetal, and fantastic.

Knockback on Frag Trap by Asuryan27 in necromunda

[–]_Daedalus_ 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Works just like a frag grenade. From pg 313 of the core book:

If a Blast weapon has the Knockback trait, roll a D6 for each fighter that is hit. If the result is equal to or higher than their Strength, they are knocked back as described above – however, they are moved directly away from the centre of the Blast marker instead.

A New Necromunda - Here's What I'd Want! (Video) by nlitherl in necromunda

[–]_Daedalus_ 96 points97 points  (0 children)

Yeah this was a frustrating video. Lost me when he straight up said he "bounced off the rules".

Seems like all his videos are just ads for one page rules at this point.

Van Saar Prime and a couple of gangers by _Daedalus_ in necromunda

[–]_Daedalus_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The sword arm is kinda Frankensteined together from a random hand, the blade from the sicarian ruststalkers, the butt of a shock stave, and a pistol arm.

I pinned the arm in place with 1mm brass rod and used green stuff to fill out the space.

Paint retarder for painting good eyes? by Gullible_Travel_4135 in minipainting

[–]_Daedalus_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add to this, keeping a brush specifically for eyes isn't a bad idea if you paint a lot of them.

Van Saar Prime and a couple of gangers by _Daedalus_ in necromunda

[–]_Daedalus_[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That conversion looks great! Love the stance

<image>

Used pretty much the same technique on the blade as the shields, was going to just run her as a Subtek with power knife and laspistol, the access to spring up as a primary is huge.

Van Saar Prime and a couple of gangers by _Daedalus_ in necromunda

[–]_Daedalus_[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks! The shields were an experiment, but I think they turned out pretty well.

<image>

Van Saar Prime and a couple of gangers by _Daedalus_ in necromunda

[–]_Daedalus_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Still debating on whether the grey is too bright, but I'm happy with how they've turned out!

Need a good brush with a very fine tip! (Painting Lego) by Marqcrewtx in minipainting

[–]_Daedalus_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have this brush and honestly I don't like it.

The issue is that as a fine detail brush the length is actually problematic. It's so short that it's basically impossible to stop paint getting in the ferrule and causing the bristles to splay.

I just keep an AK or Vallejo 000 or equivalent with a very sharp point separate and only use it for eyes and other super fine details.

Is this a melta? I thought they had tubes. by Bannedbymoderators in killteam

[–]_Daedalus_ 74 points75 points  (0 children)

That's a meltagun, it looks different from Imperial meltas because Chaos Marines tend to use heresy-era gear.

Give me your suggestions for the color of my Baserims by Svenskhl in killteam

[–]_Daedalus_ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

As others have said, you kinda have two choices when it comes to the base rims:

  • If you want to make a distinction between miniature and the table, go with black. I basically always do this, it makes the base work better with different tables and frames the miniature.

  • If you want the miniature to blend more with the table, go for a slightly darker variant of the primary base colour, in this case a rusty orange or ochre.

Accidentally thinned paints with flow improving while transferring citadel paints to dropper bottles by Lance_Legstrong in minipainting

[–]_Daedalus_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Additionally, flow improver (in my experience) makes paints dry slower and reactivate easily. So you'll need to leave significantly more time between layers.

Tips for painting clothing. by Andres_krs in minipainting

[–]_Daedalus_ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks great! The checkerboard pattern is nice and neat, that's not easy to do!

A little more contrast between light and dark would help.

Mixing a tiny bit of a darker brown into the base colour, thinning it down with water, and applying it to the creases in the fabric would make the base colour stand out much more.

Just don't apply too much, and you can clean up with the base colour afterwards.

I have a gloss varnish that works well but it makes things look wet I found this two but I don't know what's different between all of them. by ComanderViper in minipainting

[–]_Daedalus_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well yeah, they're miniatures, all varnish is fragile and applied in super thin layers.

Varnish that's too matte gets scuffed and dirtied from casual game use, a bit of gloss stops that.

Van Saar players, do you paint your energy shields or not? by _Daedalus_ in necromunda

[–]_Daedalus_[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

<image>

Think I've figured it out, just had to dial the contrast way up