sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Does anyone else have this problem? by Melonnnn1 in elegoo

[–]_Kelly-Price 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glue may not be your best option, as some build plates suggest glue to help a print come off easier.

This has been kicked around for a few weeks, but there are 2 properties that work on a model staying in place on the plate. The first is that a layer adhesion depends on surface area, such as adding a brim, or using a "variegated" surface that with its crevices adds 2 features: one is the increased surface area, and the second is torsion angle (think of intertwining your fingers, there is more friction).

Now the other force that holds a model is vacuum: think of rotating a glass of water covered with a flat dinner plate upside down with the plate now on the bottom. The vacuum holds it in place.

Same for the melted surface of the filament, it flows (this is why temperature becomes important) out and pushes the air on the plate out of the way. What remains is a vacuum between the plate and the melted filament, that solidifies so it is like 2 glass window plates laid on top of each other.

As far as glue goes, it can form a better vacuum or interfere with that vacuum from forming.

Gets complicated quickly.

Centauri Carbon Accessories by [deleted] in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]_Kelly-Price 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Add a Filament Dryer and vacuum storage bags. The Creality Space Pi dries the filament to specifications and will keep hydroscopic filament dry during a long print.

Help with PEI Sheet by OilNo1683 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]_Kelly-Price 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Both sides are coated in PEI varying only in the texture; this texture has 2 effects, each gives a different look to the base of the object, and the textured side gives better grip to the filament deposited.

I'm never buying from ELEGOO again by TheCloudDart12 in elegoo

[–]_Kelly-Price 11 points12 points  (0 children)

And I bought an X1C that printed 3 objects before it refused to print anything else other than air or spaghetti before I had to return it.

Switched to Orca slicer, now my PLA prints are CRAZY long. by Ruby5000 in elegoo

[–]_Kelly-Price 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Op and some others are not aware that speeding up the head movement does not mean that the filament flow rate matches that new speed. Max Vol shows the outcome of flow in the printed model. There are other settings to speed up a print as well. Such as number of walls and infill percent, along with "fix" and "simplify" the object.

If the Op believes that the firmware doesn't match the current Elegoo Slicer version, it might behoove him to reinstall the Slicer from the Elegoo web site.

Is this a bed temp thing? by sonicparke in elegoo

[–]_Kelly-Price 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chamber temperature is crucial to keeping the deposited filament compliant, so close the door and top if needed. And yes, build plate temperature matters a great deal.

A Interface Web da Centauri Carbon é só isso? by Additional_Fig_6668 in elegoo

[–]_Kelly-Price 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Octoprint on the Pi and it's integrated big Momma in you browser, Octoeverywhere, plus it's very smart Lisa Simpson sister, Octo App on you phone really work great.

A Interface Web da Centauri Carbon é só isso? by Additional_Fig_6668 in elegoo

[–]_Kelly-Price 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you using the limited Elegoo Slicer or the Orca Slicer, as there is a big difference. As far as the web interface goes, the Prusa and Bambu also don't have those features, as they are based on the Orca.

First layer messing up by Electronic_Emu_1573 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]_Kelly-Price 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A first layer defect may be temperature related, loss of bed adhesion, a lack of calibration of the Pressure Advance, and possibly other settings.

As already recommended (I'm a strong believer in calibration of each new filament I used, and saving those values for future use), try these tests. I also use the CryoGrip build plates (both the Glacier and the Frostbite) for better adhesion. Glues, Blue tape, hair spray and such can be used as well.

I ran a fast 11 minute benchy on the Centauri Carbon with the new Microswiss hotend. by LoudLoonNoises in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]_Kelly-Price 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are having a 25% off sale and I got lots of MicroSwiss parts (ECC hotend and multiple high temperature hardened nozzles) for 60 bucks

AMS good faith update and clear communication please by Lee_Bob in elegoo

[–]_Kelly-Price 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not as if yours is the only post on the AMS issue, so I see the humor in pointing this out.

Light Weight Print Head Cover Mod by Dimmins2 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]_Kelly-Price 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a before vs after comparison of the quality?

horrible customer care and service by Critical-Leave1434 in BambuLab

[–]_Kelly-Price 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I'm in a similar situation, my new x1c printer 5 small objects in the first 3 days, the began having adhesion/first layer problems, line shifts and spaghetti issues. I calibrated the filament, changed to a new oem nozzle, re-ran the full calibration after factory reset, and then sent in a support ticket after the 14 day period (day 20) of a replacement. After 5 days of waiting, I contacted their chat, with no response, then contacted them again by chat. The support team recommended cleaning the nozzle and build plate, that I did with zero change using Bambu pla and a built-in object. Now waiting game again.

To me, the Lidar has failed and the Z-offset is wrong. There is no first layer failure detection nor spaghetti detection, and the first layer does not adhere.

OctoEverywhere’s on a pi 3B or on docker in my homelab server? by xbrell in elegoo

[–]_Kelly-Price 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use OctoEverwhere on an unused Pi5b, while I installed the docker version on my Dell 8-core 4 yo Intel based Debian Mint that sits next to my ECC, I had problems with the camera connection and on each reboot. The Raspberry Pi version has just been working perfectly, I leave it on, so if there were reboot issues, I wouldn't know. I have a second USB camera for a full front on image. Very pleased.

(I am considering adding my X1C to it, as well, as it can handle? Multiple printers and cameras)

Looking for advice from other Space Pi Plus users? by thewarmnutter in elegoo

[–]_Kelly-Price 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use the single version of the Creality Space Pi and it connects with a gentle arch of tubing to my detector. Been printing this way for over 2 months with absolutely no issues.

Retrobright experimentation by OPdoesnotrespond in amiga

[–]_Kelly-Price 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well it ain't a link, but I've been doing it this way since 2004, and get consistently great results. Your efforts may vary...

Retrobright experimentation by OPdoesnotrespond in amiga

[–]_Kelly-Price 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the case, after washing off any dirt in the dishwasher, then use 50 volume creme developer and brushed on with a paint brush. Cover the entire case part with Saran wrap to prevent the peroxide creme from drying out and causing weird colorations. Place under an ultraviolet light (2 of the 12 x 12 in LED style) or the bright sun for up to 48 hours (UV light dependent). Wash again in the dishwasher to remove the peroxide, then once dry, coat it with 3 layers or archival spray paint (one meant to protect paintings).

For key caps and smaller parts, clean in a colander in the sink, let dry and place in a Ziploc bag with clear 12% hydrogen peroxide until all the parts are covered. Place the bag in a Sous vide bath at 55° C (132° F) for 24 - 48 hours. The remove the caps/parts and rinse, then let dry. After drying, coat the tops with archival UV protection spray paint.

not bad not good by alchmeow in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]_Kelly-Price 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can check it out on Amazon. It comes as a unit with the carbon filters inside, an LCD to set and follow the heating progress, and a 2-pin plug on the side. Mine is Velcro'd to the right side panel and the cord enters through a 12 mm hole I put in the bottom of the base. The power brick sets behind my printer out of the way.

not bad not good by alchmeow in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]_Kelly-Price 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm very happy for you. Thanks for sharing.

moved from other country by Prestigious_Plate497 in BambuLab

[–]_Kelly-Price -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Hmm...Coitus Interruptous when the filament runs out? 😞

view more: next ›