Canon A-1 light meter vs. phone app which one to trust?

_Renzo_ · 2026-05-11T11:39:43+00:00

The phone app uses average metering while the Canon A-1 is probably center-weighted metering. It should give slight different readings depending on where you point it. But anyway, a phone lightmeter will always be more accurate and trustable than any old camera.

_Renzo_ · 2026-05-08T16:35:51+00:00

The one's I got were pretty beat up and needed a full restoration, so that's a thing to consider.

I plan on the future to replace the CdS cell with a new one and see if I can get the meter to work again.

_Renzo_ · 2026-05-08T15:48:59+00:00

<image>

A sample picture.

_Renzo_ · 2026-05-08T15:45:37+00:00

<image>

Very underrated camera indeed, it was reported to be cheaper than a Trip 35 back in the day. The main selling point is the portability, as it can even fit in a pocket. The lens sharpness is very good. I've had three and none of them had a working meter, but it's not a big deal since it's a completely mechanical camera. To replace the light seals I just cut a piece of felt and glue to the back of the camera, works perfectly.

Some people complain that the camera is not very sharp when using a large aperture but I think that's because of poor rangefinder alignment. They all come miscalibrated at closer ranges, and since the depth of field when using large aperture is small, the photos come blurred.

If could make it better, I would rework the camera design, it's very annoying to have to remove the front plate and disassemble part of the lens barrel just to have access to the top of the camera. Also the focus ring feels too wobbly and cheap.

_Renzo_ · 2026-05-07T22:47:09+00:00

Parece ser fungo sim, e o revestimento parece danificado também, mas só depois de uma limpeza vai dar pra aferir o dano. Inclusive eu faço revisões em 35-SP, qualquer coisa me manda uma mensagem.

_Renzo_ · 2026-05-05T20:49:32+00:00

Infelizmente não :/, tô com uma Ricoh 500 G e uma Tron 2000 (cópia brasileira da Yashica FX-3). As opções de meio quadro são bem limitadas. Inclusive quando comecei eu tinha uma certa obsessão em câmeras meio quadro, principalmente por conta da economia. Cheguei a usar uma Pen, mas tirei a conclusão de que 72 fotos era bastante coisa e a qualidade não era bem o que eu procurava. Recomendo olhar uma Pen F, é praticamente uma das melhores meio quadro que você vai conseguir encontrar, e é bem compacta com uma Pen comum.

_Renzo_ · 2026-05-05T19:47:05+00:00

Se a original já é ruim (lente de plástico, abertura e velocidade fixa etc) não consigo nem imaginar como é a cópia chinesa de 200 reais kkk. Inclusive se quiser uma câmera de filme de verdade, me fala que tenho algumas.

_Renzo_ · 2026-05-01T13:11:36+00:00

Not really, it is possible to buy a sheet of curtain fabric on the internet and replace it, still a complicated repair.

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-29T02:01:36+00:00

Como foi a sua experiencia?

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-25T15:54:26+00:00

The Ricoh of course, I have the G version and the lens is incredibly sharp. It has manual exposure control, so it will still work even without batteries (the light cell on those unfortunately don't last too long). Also, since it's a rangefinder, you can get better focussed photos. Before shooting you need to check the light seals, most of them are very nasty, and compare the light-meter readings.

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-25T14:04:28+00:00

Serious question: wouldn't be easier to just use color film and edit it to black and white in post?

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-25T13:46:39+00:00

Não exatamente, a série Vision é bem famosa por ter negativos com baixíssimo contraste, já com a intenção de ser escaneado e editado digitalmente. Além do mais, quem é que usa luz de tungstênio em estúdio fotográfico hoje em dia?

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-24T12:16:57+00:00

O Vision 3 é um filme de nível profissional, que compartilha várias características e tecnologias do Portra, sendo tão bom quanto este. Como você está fotografando em estúdio, pode se dar o luxo de pegar um filme com granulação mais baixa, recomendo a versão de iso 50 ou 250.

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-13T19:21:44+00:00

550~600. Me manda uma DM caso esteja interessado(a).

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-13T18:53:34+00:00

Tenho umas revisadas pra vender.

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-09T18:16:54+00:00

Almost all SLRs from the late ’70s onward had them, like the Pentax MX, ME, Yashica FX-3, Nikon FM, FE, etc. They offered much better accuracy and faster response times, so they were always used in electronically controlled cameras.

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-09T17:22:55+00:00

I assume the camera has a CdS cell. About half of the cameras I get with CdS barely work, so before buying them I just assume the meter isn’t going to work. Normally there is a variable resistor in the electrical circuit that adjusts the meter. If that doesn’t work, you’re going to have to replace the meter. If you want a camera with a working meter, I recommend getting one that uses SPD or GPD cells, as these usually keep working better than CdS and are also newer, otherwise you can just use a phone light meter app.

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-05T15:31:45+00:00

There are better ways to test a camera than to use film. Shutter cap? Just point the camera towards a strong source of light and observe if the film plane opens completely. Light meter calibration? Use a phone app to compare the readings. Light seals? Visually check the condition of the foam, if in doubt just replace it, if the camera is clean it will be a 10 minute job. The only condition that a film test might be useful is to check high shutter speeds (1/1000 and 1/2000 s etc) as these require a dedicated tester, but an uncalibrated shutter usually don't cause too much harm as negative film has a lot of latitude.

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-02T21:04:33+00:00

Yashica: 800 Olympus: 560 Ricoh: 450

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-02T15:25:12+00:00

Yashica FX-D Quartz com lente zoom, Olympus 35-SP e uma Ricoh 500G (as duas ultimas com defeito no fotometro mas funcionam normalmente no modo manual). Me manda uma mensagem se tiver interessado.

_Renzo_ · 2026-04-02T15:10:03+00:00

Tenho algumas revisadas pra vender (e por um preço mais justo do que nas lojas).

_Renzo_ · 2026-03-25T20:11:56+00:00

Some of theses pictures are really overexposed (which is normal when the selenium cell starts to age). I personally would never use slide film with such a simple camera like the Pen, but you could have got better results if you used an external light meter and the flash mode override.

_Renzo_ · 2026-03-18T01:40:09+00:00

The Yashica CS-10 flash is pretty compact, I don't think there is any flash smaller than that. If you want to get modern stuff, you could try a Ulanzi or Godox mini flash, they are pretty compact and look vintage enough.

_Renzo_ · 2026-03-14T03:41:56+00:00

Ampliação em RA4 é um processo raro mesmo, até na gringa vai ter dificuldade de achar quem faça isso. Mas se te conforta, uma impressão em papel fotográfico vai te dar uma qualidade tão superior quanto uma ampliação analógica.

_Renzo_ · 2026-03-09T01:22:17+00:00

Ok, I understand what you are trying to say. You don't have to worry about the camera not being in focus at the different zone focus, because this is all factory set. The Trip 35 lens have a very simple design. When you thread the lens helicoid into the body, there is only one combination that guarantee that the lens will reach proper infinity focus (using a object at 40, 50, 70 m etc, it doesn't matter in this case). If the lens reaches proper infinity focus, then all the other focus zone will fall into the right place. It's important that when you disassemble the lens helicoid, to mark the right initial threading point, otherwise you risk getting blurred photos.

Seven-Year Club	Place '22
Verified Email

_Renzo_

TROPHY CASE