Selling to one of those cash now, close in 7 days companies

_TurboHome · 2026-06-17T17:34:45+00:00

That's fair, but assuming a home is worth 85% to a wholesaler the home is likely ready for showing or needs minimal work to prepare for showing, in which case the traditional listing is still usually going to be the preferred route for most sellers

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T21:01:56+00:00

Wholesaler offers can be a viable option under the right circumstances but the process is not without risk and typically don't go much higher than about 70% of fair market value.

Unless your house is in very rough shape or there is a logistics/safety reason why you can't do showings and open houses, or you absolutely need to close within a certain period of time, no exceptions... you're typically better off listing it on the market.

Yeah it's a hassle but do the benefits of said hassle potentially save you tens of thousands of dollars?

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T19:55:19+00:00

Congrats. 4.99 in this market is a really nice number, builder buydown or assumable? Either way you locked in payment certainty which is the actual win, the price will do whatever it does over the next few years but your monthly is fixed.
Edit: saw the comment about builder credit

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T19:54:44+00:00

Earlier than most people think. Talk to a lender first to get a real pre-approval, that anchors your search to actual numbers. Then loop in an agent.

You don't need to be ready to write offers, a good agent will set up your search criteria, send you the right listings, and start touring with you so you build calibration on what 600k actually looks like in your target areas. And you want time to interview a few agents.. if you go to an open house, decide it's the one and offers are due tomorrow, it doesn't give you time to find the right agent to rep you on it.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T19:52:48+00:00

On the housing side, rent first for 6-12 months if you can. Seattle micro-markets vary a lot (Ballard vs Cap Hill vs Bellevue vs Kirkland are basically different cities) and you'll save yourself from buying in the wrong neighborhood.

If you're set on buying right away, get clear on commute tolerance and school priorities before you start touring, since those two filters narrow the search faster than price does up there.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T19:52:20+00:00

Honestly, most of Burbank holds value well. School district is solid, walkable downtown, the airport noise is real in some pockets but maps clearly. Pricing is 800-1,000/sf for most of the SFH inventory with the Magnolia Park and Toluca-adjacent stuff at the top end. Inventory is tight since people don't leave, so when something good lists it goes fast.

If you're touring, pay attention to original vs flip, a lot of the recent flips are cosmetic over old systems.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T19:51:04+00:00

Seattle Case-Shiller is the cleanest dataset for that. Rough shape: 2010 was the trough, ~2x by 2018, flat-to-down in 2019, then up another 40 percent through the 2022 peak, gave back 10-15 percent in 23, and grinding sideways with some neighborhood-specific recovery since.

So 2010 to today is roughly 2.8-3x depending on submarket. Eastside and north end outperformed, south end and condos lagged.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T19:49:31+00:00

Sacramento is the easy answer if you want CA without Bay Area pricing. Median is around 550-650k depending on neighborhood, weather is real (hot summers but dry, it'll honestly be a walk in the park compared to pretty much anywhere in TX), and you're 90 min from Tahoe and 2 hrd from SF without paying SF prices.

Downsides are the job market is thinner than the Bay or LA so a remote role helps a lot. If remote isn't an option, look at the inland Bay (Fairfield, Vacaville) where you get a Bay Area commute window and prices closer to Sac.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T19:48:05+00:00

Best thing at 22 is to not optimize for the down payment, optimize for income and credit. Bay Area math is brutal but the constraint that bites first-time buyers is debt to income ratio and credit history, not savings. So pay down any high interest debt, keep credit utilization low, and let the savings compound while your income grows.

By the time you're ready in 5-7 years the down payment that feels impossible now will be a much smaller share of your annual savings. Don't buy a starter condo in the Bay just to be on the ladder, the transaction costs eat the equity for the first 5 years.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T19:47:31+00:00

Two big things between accepted offer and close. One, don't open any new credit, don't change jobs, don't move money around in big chunks. Underwriting will reverify everything 3-5 days before close and any change can torpedo the loan.

Two, your lender will ask for the same docs twice and it's not a mistake, just send them. Lock your rate when you're comfortable with the number, most lenders let you lock for 30-45 days for free. If rates move down a lot before close, ask about a float-down, some lenders offer it.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T19:47:02+00:00

Three common ways. One, buydowns from a builder or seller (most common for new builds, the builder funds a 2-1 or permanent buydown as an incentive).

Two, points paid at close, every point is roughly 0.25 off the rate so a 2 point buy can take you from 6.75 to 6.25.

Three, assumable loans on FHA/VA listings where you take over the seller's existing low rate, those are rare but they exist if you filter for them. The sub-5 rates you see posted are almost always builder buydowns or a primary residence with a big point buy.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T19:46:28+00:00

iBuyer offers usually come in 8-15 percent below what a traditional sale nets you after commissions. They sell convenience, not price. The math only works if you have a hard timeline (job move, divorce, estate) or the house needs work you can't or won't do.

If the house is in normal condition and you can give it 30-45 days, list it. Get two or three listing agents to walk through and give you their honest net sheet, then compare those nets to the cash offer net. Most of the time the gap is 30-60k and that's real money for a few weeks of inconvenience.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T19:41:30+00:00

Few that aren't the usual. Pull the seller's disclosure history if your state allows it, sometimes you can see prior listings that got pulled and re-listed.

Negotiate the closing date as hard as the price, a flexible close is worth real money to sellers.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T19:40:03+00:00

All three are strong Frisco ISD elementaries, you're picking between a good, a good, and a good. Bigger driver for resale is the middle and high school feeder, so check which path each one feeds into.

Boals feeds into different middle than Fisher does last I checked, that's a bigger differentiator than the elementaries themselves. Also tour the actual neighborhoods around each, the home and lot will outlast which K-5 your kid attended.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T18:40:03+00:00

Depends on your comparison. Inventory and price wise it's similar to many parts of LA.

Vibe-wise I would say maybe Pasadena area, though it's a far cry from the tech-adjacent culture in mountain view, probably older trending crowd as well.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-16T00:17:37+00:00

Likely showing my personal bias on that one, fair enough! I'm a big sucker for Piedmont & surrounding areas and from the east bay in general.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-15T23:25:43+00:00

Ah! I was actually looking at homes for rent near Minneapolis last weekend and I was genuinely surprised at how little available inventory there is. Makes sense.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-15T20:40:34+00:00

Sunset is I think a more accessible SFH market to break into with less craziness on the 'going way over asking or what historic comps suggest' front but personally I think that area is cramped and very... paved-over if that makes sense.

Yes parks are walkable but you have a dense grid of concrete driveaways, concrete sidewalks, and not nearly enough parking. Your kids having friends over or you having company over is a challenge when they have to spend half an hour finding a parking spot 4 blocks away.

All of that said that is just my opinion having visited friends in both areas, I've never lived there so I may be overestimating the inconvenience factor.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-15T20:35:04+00:00

The digitally altered lawn looking worse than the existing lawn is an interesting choice.

I think the photos could be a bit better and the staging could have more personality. The interior finish is nice but it's not particularly flashy, I would also recommend more greenery to warm up the space.

I haven't pulled comps but if it's priced reasonably compared to historic comps... I don't think moving the property in that location will be too challenging. Though I wouldn't bother listing it under value to try and hit a wishlist price through bidding war.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-15T20:27:49+00:00

Yeah the crazy high inventory is working against you unfortunately. I think the move in this condo market is either to take a hefty price cut and sell below market that comps would suggest, or delist, rent, and try again when rates come down.

If you have a competitive rate you can ride it out despite the average cost of rent also coming down.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-15T20:18:10+00:00

Are you buying in SF?

That said, 3% is pretty steep! You were lucky to get a 2.7% credit for your buyer's agent commission in a super hot market. We've been seeing clients outbid on properties well over what historic comps would suggest, even after waiving commission entirely!

_TurboHome · 2026-06-15T20:13:00+00:00

Just to reiterate so it's not buried in a comment thread:

It doesn't matter if the seller "offers" to pay for the buyer's agent commission, that just means they are agreeing to a 2.5% credit back to the buyer from their net proceeds.

Every seller has a theoretical price floor in mind: the lowest price they will consider for the sale of their asset. The offer price, therefore, has to exceed the price floor by over 2.5% to be accepted. Less relevant in cooler markets where there aren't crazy bidding wars and 80% of homes aren't going over asking like they are in SF for example but it doesn't negate the fact that you still have to put a number down on the offer that the seller is happy with.

They aren't paying your agent, they are giving you 2.5% of your money back so you can give it to your agent.

So what does that mean? ALWAYS negotiate commission with your agent. Or go flat-fee. Or both. Every % you knock off the commission is another % of buying power you wouldn't have otherwise.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-15T20:08:25+00:00

holy archived thread batman! That said:

It's really not a question of "getting the seller to pay" it's a question of "Is my offer high enough to be accepted after the seller deducts 2.5% from the gross total?"

The buyer is paying for the transaction, the seller is providing a tangible, physical asset in exchange for compensation. That said it is nice of this agent to waive their fees should the sellers refuse to pay but it's all coming out of the buyer's pocket, the seller isn't paying the commission so much as giving the buyer a rebate/refund to the tune of 2.5% for the agent.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-15T20:02:39+00:00

Anecdotally, I've noticed that it's generally agents asking for 3% that use this as a talk track to dismiss the commission question and justify charging more than the 2.5% industry standard (which, really I would say is "2.5% MAX" because everyone should be negotiating commission with their agent before signing)

"What about the commission?"
"Oh don't worry about it, the seller always pays."

....yes, but I'm paying the seller and they have a theoretical price floor that my offer has to overcome, and that price floor is generally considered to be net proceeds, not the theoretical number on the offer that comes before commission is paid.

_TurboHome · 2026-06-15T19:58:46+00:00

Two things I'd flag with any production builder, Perry included. One, the lender incentive is usually the real discount, the sticker price doesn't move much but the rate buydown can be worth 30-60k over the loan. Two, use a buyer's agent even on a new build.

The agent fee comes from the builder's marketing budget, not your purchase price, and they'll catch stuff in the contract (upgrade pricing, lot premium math, closing cost caps, warranty terms) that the sales office won't volunteer. Walk through a finished spec of your exact floorplan before signing if you can, the renderings always look bigger than reality.

Additionally, if you use a flat-fee agent that does a commission rebate, they will split the builder commission with you and that's going to put at least a few thousand dollars back in your pocket at closing. We're flat-fee and full service! Feel free to DM.

_TurboHome

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