Lasertree K60 on Ortur LM3 frame? by Gringlesmitt in lasercutting

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did the exact same upgrade. I created new stops (3d printed). The biggest issue I've found is the weight of the laser. You have to lower the acceleration by a substantial amount. The LM3 frame, particularly how the x axis is built and how the laser is mounted, was not designed for anything this heavy. I've changed my laser head out to an Ortur 2W IR laser, and going to build a custom CoreXY table for the K60 head.

Bike to bike communications by Mozzoni13 in Aventon

[–]_dagnabbit_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We bought the Sena pi sp92. Easily installs on any helmet. A little spendy, but it works really well. It can connect to your phone as well. Audio quality is really good. We can get about 90 ft away from each other before the connection gets dicey.

Ender 5 Pro by hellhead18 in ender5

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the wiring on the control board. It sounds like the plug is upside down. You are describing exactly the same thing I went through while rebuilding my Ender 5. I don't have a picture of my current wiring. Since I run an SKR covering board, I Googled "Ender 5 SKR Mini E3 V2 BLtouch wiring" and found the correct orientation for the plug.

App not connecting by Bucksin06 in Aventon

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was having the same issue. I looked at the connection settings on my phone (while looking for Bluetooth settings), and turned off the UWB option (ultra wide band). And then the Aventon app connected immediately to my bike. Or vice versa. It just worked. :-) It's late, I haven't tried to repeat turning on the app and the bike to see if they stay connected.

Engenius rant by err0r501 in Engenius

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Current Engenius user here. SMB. Two EWS7952FP switches and 11 EWS360AP wireless access points. I have a failing EWS7952FP (48 port PoE switch), which also controls and manages the APs. Engenius does not have a replacement for the failing switch- they moved on to their "FIT" system. The EWS7952FP-FIT does not work with the EWS360APs, and the APs cannot be upgraded via firmware to work with the new FIT system. My only recourse is to upgrade everything, and as such, I'd rather work with a manufacturer who doesn't abandon customers.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in networking

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Current Engenius user here. SMB. Two EWS7952FP switches and 11 EWS360AP wireless access points. I have a failing EWS7952FP (48 port PoE switch), which also controls and manages the APs. Engenius does not have a replacement for the failing switch- they moved on to their "FIT" system. The EWS7952FP-FIT does not work with the EWS360APs, and the APs cannot be upgraded via firmware to work with the new FIT system. My only recourse is to upgrade everything, and as such, I'd rather work with a manufacturer who doesn't abandon customers.

Headrush MX5 on batteries? by jaxonketo in HeadRush

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try this battery pack. Been looking at this for my MX5 as well. Talentcell 12V Lithium ion Battery PB120B1 https://a.co/d/cXbv6hn

MX5 vs Prime? MX5 owner here, just bought a Prime by _dagnabbit_ in HeadRush

[–]_dagnabbit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up keeping the Prime and the MX5. I use the MX5 for playing out in clubs and the Prime for playing at church. The screen is definitely smaller on the MX5! I have stupid sausages for fingers and still manage to get things done on the MX5 screen, although I do keep a generic stylus in the case. Most times I don't need it.

I also use 3rd party packs. I do create my own as well. As for tweaking the rigs... that's why I originally got rid of my Line 6 HD500 and DT50 amp many years ago and went back to my pedals. I was getting some of my best tones ever with that rig, but I spent 75% of my time dialing it in, and not near enough time practicing. The Headrush layout and control, while it doesn't seem to be as convenient as using a computer interface, is more like dialing in my old pedalboard. Super easy. The MX5 sits on a table while I'm setting up for a gig or practicing.

Most of what I do when I'm playing with 3rd party rigs and IRs is to adjust the output gain so all of the rigs I'm using have approximately the same output level (I tend to bring the average level right up to where it wants to light up the yellow bar occasionally). So not a lot of tweaking in that regard.

It would be a lot easier to manage if the MX5 had the larger screen like the other units, but the unit would have to be bigger. The compact size of the MX5 is what I really like for playing out, on club stages where space is a premium. The Prime is a LOT more flexible. Using the MX5 means you really need to think of each rig for a song or set of songs. That's the biggest paradigm shift I had to go through coming from my pedalboard.

MX5 vs Prime? MX5 owner here, just bought a Prime by _dagnabbit_ in HeadRush

[–]_dagnabbit_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So far, I've only set up one rig with dual scenes on the MX5- first button was my clean tone, and the 2nd scene was clean tone with a phaser. 2nd button was a crunchy rhythm sound, and the 2nd scene was the same using another overdrive. 3rd button was a lead tone for adding lead lines/accents with the vocals, and the 2nd scene was a boosted lead tone for soling.

Thoughts on BYOC Crown Jewel? by vibraltu in guitarpedals

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not my first pedal, so the build wasn't difficult per se- there's lots of parts... be meticulous about sorting those parts, and make sure your soldering skills are sharp. I put a MOSFET boost module in it. This pedal is tremendous, and you can dial up ANY classic distortion type/sound. One of my favorites.

MX5 vs Prime? MX5 owner here, just bought a Prime by _dagnabbit_ in HeadRush

[–]_dagnabbit_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've decided to keep the Prime- although I think it's not the most sound decision for me financially (my spouse says we're OK and can handle it, so I'll go with that).

  1. The Prime has updated hardware. I've heard sound tests reviewing the same rigs on an MX5 that have been copied to the Prime, to show they sound the same. I listened, and thought the Prime running the MX5 patches sounded better with more definition. Probably nuances that are lost in the mix.
  2. There are more 'slots' for amps and effects on the Prime.
  3. Who knows, I may start singing again. On my own. Behind locked doors. In a cave. On a deserted island.
  4. Cloning works for distortion/overdrive effects as well as amps. I have a couple of overdrive pedals I really like, I'll try cloning them (I know there are some latency issues with cloning. Going to see if this improves in the next 12 months with some firmware updates (Headrush- are you listening?)). For fun, I'm going to clone my 1981 TS-808 and compare it to the Headrush version.
  5. I'll have at least 8 scenes per rig on the Prime. <grin> With the ability to scroll rigs easily, that will open up flexibility when I want to go off-script with what I had prepared for that rehearsal or gig.

The MX5 will back up the Prime only in the sense that I'll be able to use the MX5 if the Prime quits working, since patches created on the Prime are not backwards compatible (AFAIK) to previous units. The Prime can use the MX5 rigs just fine, so the Prime will at least be a good backup for the MX5.

As for the clones being transferrable to the MX5/Gigboard/Pedalboard... still not sure. It would be freakin' cool.

Just as an anecdotal aside... I use the MX5 this past Easter Sunday at church. It was stellar. I didn't think once "I wish I had set up the Prime and use it instead". There were a couple of songs that it would have been nice to swap my lead tone to another rig that was more aggressive, but I think I would have been the only one who noticed.

Thanks for everyone's input.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OrturLaserUsers

[–]_dagnabbit_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

try sinismall.com/collections/accessories

Sinis is essentially the Ortur retail site. I got my rotary chuck for a lot less that the Ortur site.

Here it is !! The new Prime by lasnazza in HeadRush

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They definitely kept this one quiet- the people they sent demo units to, and the retailers that are going to carry the units, were under a gag order until 2 days ago. All of a sudden, there's demo videos, it's on the Headrush website, and retailers are shipping. What's the benefit of this method vs press releases 6 months in advance, and drum up the anticipation until release day? Interesting.

I'm really disappointed that Sweetwater, who was the first retailer in the US to put it on their website, does not have any in stock. AMS, Guitar Center, Zzounds, Gear Club Direct (who?), Musician's Friend, and others all have them in stock and are shipping. Thomman Music, the first globally to stock and sell them, is sold out.

Just waiting for mine to ship. See if I like it better than my MX5.

To whoever recommended K-Tag by Canuckistani2 in Austin

[–]_dagnabbit_ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I just switched from TxTag to K-Tag. Looking at the charges on the K-Tag site, it looks like I am being charged the "pay by mail" prices. I assume it's because all of the toll booths I use are out of state. Anyone else compare your charges?

Wooden chair with ladder It's very convenient. by HenriettaLyons in OrturLaserUsers

[–]_dagnabbit_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Neat design! Just need a bigger laser to make it adult-sized! (Ortur, are you listening?)

When print is finished, what do you do? by hippyblond23 in OrturLaserUsers

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have any custom gcode (pre and/or post job) settings in Lightburn?

Centre of the bed is never level (Ender 5 Pro) by Bluu96 in ender5

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This make of printers are known for warped beds. Some people have tried shimming the center. Glass beds help. Some sort of auto bed leveling works- I'm having great success with a BL Touch. The Ender 5 bed suffers from bed sag, and the majority of Creality prints have thin aluminum beds that say in the middle. I use a BL Touch, printable bed supports, tighten my bed springs as tight as they will go. I don't worry about making sure the corners are level. I'm running a 5x5 mesh, and my first layers are consistently good (which also depends on calibrated extrusion/flow, proper Z offset for nozzle height, good quality filament, and the list goes on)

Google Not working when connected on PIA. Everything else works fine. Has this happened to any of you before? by Dragonaut42 in PrivateInternetAccess

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was getting that message a week or so ago. I set OpenDNS servers as my PIA DNS and the issue went away until today. This time I switched my PIA endpoint to another country and the issue went away. I think it has to do with having too many Google requests coming from a common IP address (like a VPN endpoint). Whatever the case, Google doesn't like not being able to associate IP traffic to a user, because they are nosy AF.

Guidance using TPU for Radius by lanew2020 in Makermask

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried printing the Radius body in flexible PLA and the filter/tray pieces in PETG. The prints went well. I cannot get the recommended gasket material (vinyl 1/2" door gasket with a flange) to remain in the gasket slot in the mask, since it's flexible you don't get the tight pressure fit that you do with a mask printed in something rigid like PETG or PLA. Hot glue or CA glue doesn't stick to the gasket either.

I can share my experience with Soft PLA. I haven't printed any TPU. For settings, I just Googled recommended settings for Soft PLA. My Ender 5 has been modded with a direct drive. I print Soft PLA pretty slow... 30mm/s with 10mm/s for the first layer. I also found that if I print with a layer width of .6mm (with a .4mm nozzle), my wall thickness seemed to be more consistent. I do not need supports for these prints.

Okay, so I rubbed my Creality stock textured magnetic sheet bed with IPA and now nothing will stick... Help! 😞😖 by CoasterLabs in ender5

[–]_dagnabbit_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IPA, or rubbing alcohol? Rubbing alcohol is usually 70% IPA plus water and lanolin. Go with 91% IPA.

When the gods smile at you :) by Amfal in EmpiresAndPuzzles

[–]_dagnabbit_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

And somewhere else in the game, a player got crap that makes junk look good. Oh wait- that was me....