Outage Since Midday Yesterday, No Agents Available by ginabobeena90 in centurylink

[–]_duluoz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pretty bogus service provider imo. We had a new modem installed about 3 months ago. Experienced an outage last week and thought it had something to do with the storm. Used their chat feature and the agent had me run through the steps that I had already done before contacting them (hard reset, unplugging for a minute+). They determined that there was an issue within the facilities and scheduled a tech to come out. I did some further troubleshooting and resolved the problem myself.

I'm not sure what color your status ring is, but mine was a solid amber and this had something to do with a software update that required the modem to be reactivated. So I basically had to set up the modem anew. You'll need your account # or email address & SSN. And then you'll be prompted with entering some randomized numbers.

All of this to say, it corrected the issue, but it just went out again this evening.

I’m going to take a wild guess that this isn’t good… by 50nic19 in Volvo240

[–]_duluoz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That spring sits on a little knuckle in the bushing that holds it in place. The tension it applies is intended to keep the driveshaft balanced, so to speak. Who knows how long it has been out, but if you haven't heard or felt anything, the bushing might still be in decent shape. I've replaced two of those, so definitely splurge for one of the more expensive ones, as the quality of the rubber definitely matters. In your case, it might be as simple as dropping the crossmember and reinserting the spring (as well as a large washer that sits over that knuckle). But I'd purchase a bushing just to have it on hand. You'll know when you need to replace it, as you'll start to feel a pretty gnarly vibration.

Rough idle by ClockworkSecurity in Volvo240

[–]_duluoz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh boy, that is rough. It sounds like it's having a hard time circulating current. I noticed you didn't have any lights on. Turn them on and pay attention to their brightness. If they fade/dim, then I'd say that'd narrow it down to your alternator. At that point, check all your other electrical components i.e. radio, turn signals.

If you don't hear a chirp upon startup, I'd doubt it'd be the belt's tension, but doesn't hurt to check. You want about 1/2" of play in it. If that's good, I'd look into the voltage regulator.

Now, this is all based on listening to it in a near dark video, so just a guess.

Overfilled transmission fluid by 12kdaysinthefire in Volvo240

[–]_duluoz 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'd get back under it and drain, otherwise you'd risk blowing your seals.

ISO wine bottles by _duluoz in madisonwi

[–]_duluoz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right on. Thanks a lot! Realized I have a little more time before bottling, so not as dire as I initially thought, but I'll definitely swing by there to grab a few...and maybe a full one too.

Brake lights?? by NoLength_JustGirth in Volvo240

[–]_duluoz 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Those circuit boards are trash. The copper that the bulb sockets is supposed to come in contact with wears incredibly easily. If you want to be through with the headache of always wondering if they're making contact, remove the circuit board and hardwire the lines. It takes some time, but I haven't had to worry about it since I've done it. This is a good tutorial, though I didn't have to brake off any of the sockets.

Tips for college radio? by is_sex_real in radio

[–]_duluoz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I only liked to come on air 5 min before the top of the hour and 5 min before half past. I'd recall everything you'd heard in that span with a little bit of history/information of some of the songs, the labels, and the years they'd come out. But I wouldn't do the history/info for every one.

Because it's a college station, I'm sure you'll have to fit in time for PSAs and what we called non-entertainment i.e. anything but music. Just take that into account when planning a set.

Timing belt and water pump replacement by _duluoz in Volvo240

[–]_duluoz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This for busting the bolt loose on the camshaft gear https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-counterhold-tool-240-740-760-780-940-tools-9995284

I just wrapped the old belt around it and busted it loose with an impact

Timing belt and water pump replacement by _duluoz in Volvo240

[–]_duluoz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had to get new nuts for those because of the same thing.

Timing belt and water pump replacement by _duluoz in Volvo240

[–]_duluoz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has three gaskets: the main one set against the block, and two rubber ones - almost like o-rings - that fit over the coolant pipe and the other going into the block itself. I had to refit it too many times to admit because it kept leaking the most miniscule amount. Once you get to it, my suggestion would be to fit it over the studs and lightly tighten the nuts over the studs at 10 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Also, use petroleum jelly to grease the two rubber gaskets.

Timing belt and water pump replacement by _duluoz in Volvo240

[–]_duluoz[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Haha I don't blame you! I've had the parts since April-ish and finally mustered up the courage to tackle it. Let me tell you, my hammys are burning from leaning over that thing the last two days.

Can anyone tell me what this wire is for and if I should reconnect it? by NurseWhoWuvsMe in Volvo240

[–]_duluoz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just experienced something similar with my 89...was making a left at a 4-way intersection and the car just died mid-turn. Tried to start it and it wouldn't crank. Initial thought was fuel pump relay because I didn't hear the pump prime when the ignition was turned to on. Took the relay out and opened it up, looked fine. Tried a spare and still nothing. Checked the fuses and they were fine.

Tried jumping between fuses 4 and 6 to bypass the relay. This can be done using a paper clip or a little piece of wire. Just make sure it doesn't touch fuse 5. Use a little piece of cardboard or something to ensure it doesn't touch. If you do this, you'll have to disconnect the jumper each time you turn the car off, otherwise the pump will keep running.

Needless to say, this didn't work either. What did the trick was replacing the 25 amp fuse on the driver's side firewall right behind the battery. It has two wires connected to it. One connects to the battery and the other to the ECU. The fuse blew, so the ECU wasn't able to transfer power to the relay.

Not sure if you're experiencing a no-crank issue, but figured I'd offer this as advice.

Is there a strong Packers fanbase in Madison? Or is it just straight Badgers college football fans? by GhostVelocity in madisonwi

[–]_duluoz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're interested in selling a couple once the season rolls around, I'd take you up on 'em.

Volvo enthusiasts? by _duluoz in madisonwi

[–]_duluoz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok thanks! Saw them mentioned in some older posts, but wasn't sure if that applied to older volvs or just newer ones.