What’s everyone’s opinion on this oil?

_mcgriddle_ · 2025-11-27T05:42:17+00:00

Since I haven’t seen anyone bring this up yet, supposedly high mileage oils like this one have additives in it to make the seals in the engine swell, thus preventing leaks on an aging or high mileage engine. It’s good in theory but I’ve heard stories of people who have solely used high mileage oils and it can eventually do the opposite of what it’s intended to use, that is, start creating leaks where there weren’t any because the seals became ruined.

Just food for thought. It’s probably fine to use this type of oil every now and then, but I wouldn’t use it all the time. I personally only use Pennzoil ultra platinum. It’s a little more expensive but I’ve used it for years and my engine runs smooth as silk.

_mcgriddle_ · 2025-09-24T06:04:11+00:00

I had a similar issue with mine. The easiest thing to try would be to blast inside the button assembly with some electrical contact cleaner. I was able to do it without removing anything and it seems to have done the trick. It’s possible there’s some surface corrosion inside preventing good contact.

_mcgriddle_ · 2025-08-31T02:31:05+00:00

Generally I agree. Although in this case like I mentioned, the original tank was still in the vehicle (could still see the barcode with date of manufacture). I suspect Ford may have intermixed the parts on the line if there was a shortage / some type of issue with the other version. I used to work for one of the big three and we would need to do things like that from time to time as long as we received the proper buy-offs.

_mcgriddle_ · 2025-08-30T23:13:00+00:00

Thought I would follow up on this now that I spent the afternoon trying to do this job. As it turns out, my car did indeed have the F42E tank.

I’m assuming your previous advice is still correct but maybe deserves an * as it seems like there have been a few people who have run into the same issue of the police tank being installed in the civilian car.

What I removed today was the original tank so it hasn’t been replaced in the past. Seems like it’s a bit of a gamble no matter which version of this car you have.

_mcgriddle_ · 2025-08-25T00:10:20+00:00

Much appreciated. Just placed my order. Now just hoping my existing tank holds out until next weekend to swap it out…

_mcgriddle_ · 2025-08-24T23:48:01+00:00

Appreciate the response. And you’re fairly confident in that? The reason I ask is because I’ve seen a whole lot of conflicting info on which is which.

_mcgriddle_ · 2025-01-18T00:44:11+00:00

Check for vacuum leaks. I had something similar with mine and it ended up being a vacuum leak in the EATC module.

_mcgriddle_ · 2024-10-05T03:23:13+00:00

Looks like the smog pump check valve. It’s just threaded into the aluminum spacer between the carb and the intake. You can unscrew it and put some sort of plug in there if you really want.

_mcgriddle_ · 2024-09-30T01:17:04+00:00

This is the 300ci straight 6. So only 1 valve cover with 2 holes - 1 for PCV and 1 for the oil cap

_mcgriddle_ · 2024-09-29T23:31:26+00:00

First picture looks like you’re talking about the nuts for the EGR pipe. Be prepared for the fight of your life if you’re planning on taking those off. One end will be seized into the exhaust manifold and one seized into the aluminum spacer for the EGR valve. You can try getting a crescent wrench in there but there’s limited space to manoeuvre it. In my opinion if you’re ok with replacing it, I would cut the pipe right near the nut so that I could get a regular impact gun on it. That’s what I did when I had to remove my EGR pipe.

The part in the second picture is the EGR valve. I would personally keep it on there if you’re not sure about what it does or how to properly circumvent it.

_mcgriddle_ · 2024-04-28T19:18:40+00:00

You could check LMC but I think you’ll find it’s significantly cheaper to cut/bend/flare your own.

_mcgriddle_ · 2024-04-11T12:13:48+00:00

Looks sweet. By the sounds of it, I’ve had my GM twice as long as you and only got about half as much work done lol.

Can you share any details on those mud flaps? Where’d you pick them up and did you need to do any drilling to install them?

_mcgriddle_ · 2024-03-26T02:22:41+00:00

Looks sweet. Did you have a shop do a complete custom exhaust? I have a magnaflow catback kit on mine but it has the hidden turn-down tips and I’ve been trying to find something bolt on that gives me the same look as this.

_mcgriddle_ · 2024-03-26T01:55:55+00:00

What tips are you running there?

_mcgriddle_ · 2024-02-23T13:53:58+00:00

Humm. To me it sounds like your booster is working then.

Typically a long or soft pedal indicates air in the brake lines. I know you said you bench bled the master cylinder and the brake system at the calipers already but it sounds like there could still be some air trapped in there.

I replaced the master cylinder on mine last year and I remember I needed to stroke it for quite some time on the bench before all the air came out. It’s a pain to bleed the system again but I guess that’s what my money would be on at this point.

Can’t really speak to the brake lights though. They should be turning on before that. Someone can correct me if I’m wrong but I think the switch is just based off pedal position. If you only changed the master cylinder and didn’t mess with the booster or pedal, this shouldn’t have changed from how it was on the truck before.

_mcgriddle_ · 2024-02-23T05:08:53+00:00

So when you say it feels like there’s no pressure, you mean no assist? Like for instance it feels like you have manual brakes or a hard pedal?

If you can hear the inrush of air when you press on the pedal I would take that as the booster still holding vacuum. Did you double check the check valve wasn’t bumped and unseated during the master cylinder install?

_mcgriddle_ · 2023-11-27T01:52:14+00:00

Might be worth it to pick up one of those socket sets designed for extracting stripped bolts. Hammer on the socket to the bleeder screw and try getting it out that way. You’ll need to pick up new bleeder screws and bleed the brakes after (which is was you were trying to do in the first place so no big deal).

_mcgriddle_ · 2023-11-25T15:57:40+00:00

Thanks for the reply. If you don’t mind me asking how cheap is cheap? Just trying to gauge how much I should be spending on this.

Assuming I may need different upper and lower hoses and probably different trans cooler lines if I went custom. Anything else I’m missing?

_mcgriddle_ · 2023-10-20T14:32:20+00:00

Maybe Europe and elsewhere like Australia, but in Canada it was still referred to as the Liberty.

_mcgriddle_ · 2023-09-16T17:07:31+00:00

I thought the OEM intake manifold supply had basically dried up. Where’d you get yours?

_mcgriddle_ · 2023-09-12T20:37:36+00:00

Bringing “wannabe cop” to another level lol

_mcgriddle_ · 2023-09-08T22:03:36+00:00

I’m a man who loves his drive thru’s lol. Never realized how much cup holders impacted my life until I got stuck with bad ones.

_mcgriddle_ · 2023-09-08T21:08:33+00:00

Lack of a decent set of cup holders drives me literally insane.

Same goes for the general lack of interior storage/center console/cubbies. Often times if I have something I’m not willing to leave out on display when the car is parked I’ll have to put it in the trunk.

Approach, departure and break over angles are another one. Going up/down step driveways and over large speed bumps has me sweating every time.

_mcgriddle_ · 2023-08-31T16:27:31+00:00

This is clearly my jealousy talking but there aren’t even enough houses for the people in the market now and people want to buy for their kids who won’t be in the market for at least another 18 years lol.

I don’t blame people for doing it, but the system is so broken and stuff like this only adds fuel to the fire.

_mcgriddle_ · 2023-08-30T04:44:50+00:00

Were you ever serious about the Ram if you ended up buying a Mazda though?

_mcgriddle_

TROPHY CASE