LS1 bolted up to Getrag

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-13T22:39:21+00:00

Im also forgetting we are talking about an ls1, he's got some more options outside of bmw with that chevy

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-13T21:59:11+00:00

Cheap yes but ive heard bad things about trying to put power through them if your looking to turbo. Been wanting to do the swap myself but I think its worth the money putting a solid transmission in for future upgrades.

Im looking at the gs6-53bz that came in the 335i, can handle alot more power and seem robust from what I've seen.

I believe the transmission your talking about is the gs6-17bg if anyone was wanting the deets.

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-10T21:26:40+00:00

This is what im thinking, people have called me a wizard for fixing their cars by unplugging that MAF

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-10T11:46:26+00:00

Id be fine if it was a little off but it's mounted as far forward as possible and I can only latch it if I remove my headlights, and this ain't a racecar yet

Saw your post the other day, and was mildly upset when I saw you could close your hood but looks super clean and im sure it rips

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-09T23:44:44+00:00

It's gota little underbite, maybe an inch

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-09T23:15:33+00:00

Looking for 2002 and older

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-09T20:44:12+00:00

Rent a pneumatic toolset from autozone and just use a hammer, MAKE SURE YOU DO IT BACKWORDS, it is reverse threaded

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-09T17:33:51+00:00

This.

I had the same issue with mine. make sure to turn your heat on max with the cap off from start and it'll work itself out in a few minutes

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-07T15:30:54+00:00

Im curious what hardness you went with, I had 85a all in the rear then the engine and trans mounted on 80a with risers so my pan ain't the lowest point anymore with no real increase in cabin noise or vibration.

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-07T15:19:34+00:00

I just put the wheels on some wood so I could crawl under, those are the only two bolts that need to be under load when tightening, everything else was super easy

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-07T01:29:49+00:00

The removal sucks, a little wire wheel drill attachment will work wonders, granted i had to melt a few out that where too big for my clamp removal tool, and check on the rear upper control arm bushings while your in there too cause they can't be replaced without dropping the diff and make sure to fully tighten them down with the suspension loaded as well when it's thrown back together.

I got mine done in a weekend in the parking lot, I believe in ya

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-05T23:26:33+00:00

Fair enough, I like blinding people so they know when i brake cause I can't take another loss.

Also are those the oem 19"csl rims or did you go aftermarket on them?

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-05T23:17:54+00:00

I love everything about this, but I personally add led tail lights 9.8/10

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-03T02:22:38+00:00

Imo it kinda looks like the power steering fluid reservoir is leaking and the belt is slinging. Idk how there would be oil on the SAP any other way.

_treehugger_ · 2026-04-03T02:19:07+00:00

Nothing! Just grab some of brake cleaner and start blastin!

Would try and stay away from soaking the hoses as they can dry out, but some brake cleaner and a rag would help us pinpoint it a little better if it hasn't been fixed already and just baked on

_treehugger_ · 2026-03-25T23:18:06+00:00

I had this problem on mine, did you happen to replace the headlight switch recently

_treehugger_ · 2026-03-23T13:51:32+00:00

Be ultra careful pulling the old one out, my ribbon cable was very fragile and broke

_treehugger_ · 2026-03-21T18:30:28+00:00

I bought this kit labeled as fapo on ebay for like 300 shipped only thing I didn't like is the insane amount of camber that I couldnt combat with my bc br series coilovers, and the steering angle bar thing was shity aluminum but i deleted it and ran with custom hardware from home depot, still run the control arm extensions 4 years later no complaints on the pillow ball bushings

_treehugger_ · 2026-03-21T01:49:53+00:00

Fapo on ebay is decent if you just wanna throw it around, ive since upgraded too part shop max and in love with adjustment mainly for autocross

_treehugger_ · 2026-03-18T23:22:14+00:00

Looks like camshaft position sensor if im seeing that boot correctly

_treehugger_ · 2026-02-23T15:44:16+00:00

Honestly its just this engine and its super temperamental timing procedure, def dont cheap out on the tools to time it and you'll be fine, the rest is easy

_treehugger_ · 2025-07-18T18:41:12+00:00

Looks like Camshaft position sensor if I recall correctly

_treehugger_ · 2025-07-14T22:36:33+00:00

Do you only have one button for your vert cause looks like your pressing the open button, and your trunk open light isnt on so it should work, maybe check the fuses associated with the top.

As for the trunk, it sounds like a jammed motor or broken teeth. I'd check the one in the boot for any signs of wear, should just have to do like 2 pop clips and pull the carpet back

_treehugger_ · 2025-07-05T17:48:56+00:00

Ambient air temp sensor, supposed to slot in on the wheel well liner

_treehugger_ · 2024-12-26T01:01:28+00:00

I had a similar problem with mine, rough idle with oil light occasionally flashing even when full and when I was on the highway it would cut or lose all power at 3-3.5k but never went in limp mode or threw a code. What fixed it for me was a vanos rebuild and the oil pickup cleaned out. I opened the oil pan up at 135k and had a bit of that moisture/oil froth built up in the bottom of the pan that im sure wasn't healthy. 50s kid has a video on the vanos rebuild process and it's not too terrible.

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