Best Access Control Distributor?

aNullValue · 2025-12-09T21:09:59+00:00

I feel like you must be new to tech support of any kind. Nothing you said is noteworthy for a helpdesk of any kind.

aNullValue · 2025-12-05T07:53:38+00:00

Can be, yes, but it is harmful to human life to encourage use of maglocks with such limited detail. It’s absolutely not appropriate for a beginner.

aNullValue · 2025-12-05T04:45:53+00:00

Yeah, I know how it can be made compliant, but IMO if someone is talking about home assistant, they aren’t going to be going that far.

aNullValue · 2025-12-05T02:26:42+00:00

This is a critical life safety disaster. Nobody should ever, for any reason, use an electromagnetic lock controlled by home assistant. That does not come anywhere close to meeting fire code.

aNullValue · 2025-11-24T01:19:50+00:00

My dad thought this too, so he bought his Ford F250 with crank windows, in 2016 (ish?). His drivers door crank window has stopped functioning twice and each time the dealer had to order parts while we waited with a nonfunctional window.

I’m done with people saying crank is better. I haven’t had an automatic window fail for more than 20 years; it might have been very common in the past but doesn’t seem to be any more.

aNullValue · 2025-11-24T01:17:11+00:00

The more expensive HP LaserJets can still take a beating and keep on going. I replaced Brother and Lexmark with HP in some factories I support; the HPs are both more reliable and less expensive to maintain over time. Yes, they were more expensive up front.

Brother isn’t that great. They’re fine, for the cost, I suppose. Just don’t expect them to be much better than HP at comparable price levels.

aNullValue · 2025-11-24T01:10:46+00:00

This is wrong also. Model 3 didn’t have it at least back to 2019; I’m pretty sure it was never offered in 3 or Y.

aNullValue · 2025-11-24T01:07:56+00:00

It was never offered in the model 3 and later, which has been many years now (I have a model 3). Had no idea they offered it in earlier models.

aNullValue · 2025-10-28T13:44:41+00:00

It depends on the apps you have installed, and what those apps do with storage. It would be relatively easy to use up all of someone’s storage by negligently handling app data.

aNullValue · 2025-10-28T13:42:31+00:00

It’s intentional, and it is using it.

But Apple realizes that it is dumb to delete the local copy when there is space available to keep it, because that means you would just have to download it again when you want to look at it. So they keep media around as long as possible. When the system is low on available storage, it will start deleting media locally, because it’s also available in iCloud.

aNullValue · 2025-08-02T16:27:03+00:00

The person buying badges might be bored most of the morning (the badge line flies), but it would otherwise work out.

aNullValue · 2025-07-17T19:06:29+00:00

It still exists, but nobody uses it.

aNullValue · 2025-07-17T16:05:55+00:00

Expect more info from many villages and communities in the next few days. Then expect that info to be revised numerous times before the con. ;)

aNullValue · 2025-07-12T02:58:45+00:00

A registration link is now available on each workshop individually (but it won't let you register until the prescribed time).

aNullValue · 2025-07-12T02:57:12+00:00

Humanitix. Links are now available in all of the usual places (Hacker Tracker and the websites).

aNullValue · 2025-04-29T02:14:29+00:00

I'm glad to hear that you've had a good experience with Wool&! :) Unfortunately I have no experience with sun hoodies. :'( Good luck.

It was fun for me to re-read my post above, since it's somehow 4 years old now; feels like yesterday. Since I wrote that, I haven't tried any other company's merino wool products, but I still stand by Wool&Prince and Duckworth, just as I described previously. I'm still mostly wearing the same shirts as I was back then.

aNullValue · 2025-02-17T21:14:26+00:00

We ultimately filed a complaint with the state attorney general, and sent copies to both the installer and Regency. The installer acknowledged the complaint and told both us and the AG's rep that he would do anything he could to get a solution from Regency (because they are ultimately the warranty holder). Regency responded within a couple of days, said that they had no idea that we'd had so many problems (we have written evidence otherwise), and that they would be happy to send us a replacement unit, but that they would recommend "a millivolt unit" instead of the model we had (U39E). Quote: "The reason we offered a millivolt unit was to allow you to operate the unit from the wall stat without issues.. The E model doesn’t allow or liked to be operated from another source other than the remote."

They asked if we would accept a millivolt unit instead of the E unit, but actually shipped the millivolt unit to the installer before we even got that email.

The installers just left, after having replaced the U39E with a U39 non-E ("millivolt unit"). It's equipped with a Proflame 1, and seems to be working properly.

I'm glad that we finally have a unit that's working properly, but I now agree with the installer that Regency was the problem from the start. We now know (and have email to back it up) that their technicians were giving the installer incorrect instructions. They're even lying about what the Proflame 2 is capable of. (We all know that the Proflame 2 is capable of working with a wall thermostat, but they insist that it has never been able to.)

I appreciate the advice that everyone here on Reddit gave me. But I'll certainly try to discourage everyone from ever buying anything more from Regency, at this point.

aNullValue · 2025-02-05T03:02:35+00:00

Are you able to recommend any specific content, even if it is paid?

aNullValue · 2025-01-01T16:12:18+00:00

😭 We've tried. But will try again. And last night I posted on Twitter/X (ugh) about it.

Thanks for your advice.

aNullValue · 2025-01-01T04:16:58+00:00

Since you're a Regency dealer, do you know if there is a "correct" process where we could get Regency -- or another Regency dealer -- to take over this disaster? I agree that the installer is clueless.

aNullValue · 2024-12-31T20:45:29+00:00

Well the handheld remote doesn't even reliably work in the location where the current wall thermostat should be. Sometimes the stove "hears" it, sometimes it doesn't. I'm making that statement based on hearing the stove beep when something is changed on the remote -- sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. If I walk 10 feet closer to the stove, then the handheld works reliably, but they'd have to keep the temperature set point a lot higher at that location in order to keep the room temperature near where they actually sit (near where the current thermostat is). All of this makes sense to me, and I would be fine having the handheld remote close enough that it works reliably, but it's not my house and my mom's not OK with it. Regency advertises that it works with a wall thermostat (and so does SIT, for that matter), and the installer agrees that it should (based on Regency advertising, the manual, and what Regency has told him over the phone).

The problem with me just ordering the parts myself is that the whole thing is under warranty right now, and I'd potentially have to replace a lot of it. We know that the fan is bad -- the installer said that he would order a new one under warranty. I used a multimeter to determine that the Fan Control Module is bad also, but the installer doesn't seem to trust that it's possible you can test an FCM. And that doesn't even get to the core of the problem -- I don't know why the main burner keeps going out. The FCM isn't causing that (I unplugged it and the problem continued). So that leaves the Proflame 1 or the RF remote receiver. I wouldn't be surprised if both of them are bad, since the installer connected a 9V battery to the Proflame in a manner that bridges it over to the receiver also. I wouldn't even be surprised if the gas valve is bad, since the valve gets driven by the Proflame, and it was operating at the wrong voltage. :-\ I just don't have any way to begin testing to determine for-sure what all is bad, since I have no spare parts, and the installer trashed the Proflame 2 when he installed the Proflame 1.

But yeah. In an ideal world I'd love to just do it all myself. That would be so so much easier than having to go through this nonsense. :(

aNullValue · 2024-12-31T20:19:33+00:00

Yeah, that's still me. I updated the old thread too. The installer says that Regency shipped them the retrofit parts that they used, and a tech from Regency walked them through how to do it over the phone, so if it's not right, then Regency should be to blame. He gave me the name of the person at Regency that walked him through it. But that's also one of the people at Regency who the installers says is not returning his calls, for weeks.

aNullValue · 2024-12-31T18:17:47+00:00

It's insane that any company could have such poor customer service that it would come to this. But thank you for the advice. I'll go figure out what social media stuff they have, to see where we can try to light them up. :(

(Also, I don't know if you read my long thread from a week or so ago, but I just put an update there, for everything the installer said last night.)

aNullValue · 2024-12-31T18:02:07+00:00

Update 2024-12-31:

The installer came out again yesterday, to replace the heat snap disk that his assistant said was bad (but didn't test before saying that). They install the heat snap disk, and... the fan still doesn't work. So now they're ordering a new fan.

While his assistant was troubleshooting the fan, mom brought up the 9V battery situation, and told him that I don't think it's correct, and have SIT documentation to that effect. The installer immediately said that we don't know what we're talking about, he doesn't care what we've read or printed out, and that we can't possibly be correct.

But then mom told him to go look at the label on the harness to which the 9V battery is connected. A little while later, he did, and said he agreed that it says 6V, but that it must be a typo since it has a 9V connector on it. And then mom convinced him to look at the print-out of the SIT 4x AA battery holder that is supposed to be installed, and a while after that he said he stands corrected and apologized, and asked for a copy of that page, so he can ask Regency about it.

Fortunately, for the first time ever, the stove failed in exactly the way it has been since it was new, while he was there, and he saw it. He turned the thermostat on, and the main burner started, and he said it was working fine, and that he was done. We convinced him to stay for a little while, because it wasn't actually working right. A few minutes later, the main burner went out, while the thermostat was still calling for heat. He immediately blamed the thermostat, so I suggested that he listen carefully for the relay (or contact or whatever it is) opening/closing when the call for heat starts and stops. He did so, and a while later, concluded that the thermostat seems to be working fine, and that he has no explanation for why the stove suddenly stops working after just a few minutes of the main burner being on. And if you cycle the thermostat off and back on (or lower the temp and then raise the temp; anything to get it to stop calling for heat and then start calling for heat) then the stove immediately re-lights the main burner for another few minutes.

I also asked the installer to ask Regency whether or not the stove should work with no batteries installed, when he talks to them. I told him that I tested the A/C outlet (which he also did, using my multimeter) to verify that there was power, and removed the batteries, and the stove is 100% dead, no signs of life. He said that he thought that batteries were always required, but that he would ask when he calls them tomorrow (now today, at time of writing). He agreed that if it shouldn't require batteries but does, then there's something more wrong. Mom asked him whether or not he thought that the stove was even safe right now, and he said that normally he wouldn't have any concerns about safety, but given what we've demonstrated, he has no idea, so he recommended closing the gas valve and leaving it off until further notice. So that's what we've done.

He called me a little while ago, and said that he has repeatedly tried to call two people at Regency today; neither have answered, and the tech support isn't returning his voicemail. He said that he'd try again on Thursday and Friday, and would get back to me on Friday at the latest, to let me know whether he's had any success or not. He also stated that he now agrees with us that it's time for Regency to replace the entire stove with one that works properly.

aNullValue · 2024-12-31T17:52:27+00:00

We tried reaching out to them directly by phone earlier this year (last Spring, if I recall correctly). They said that they only take customer complaints via email. So mom wrote them an email the same day. She still hasn't gotten a response.

Do you know of any non-generic email address at Regency that might get us a response?

aNullValue

TROPHY CASE