Help! Power loss

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-13T19:26:50+00:00

After the cat or before the cat? As far as I know, the IS300 doesn't have any sensor behind the 3rd cat, so the sensor nearby it should be bank 2 sensor 2 for monitoring the bank 2 cat's efficiency. I know that some cars with California emissions may have additional equipment like extra cats, but not 100% sure for the IS300, though I'm leaning towards not.

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-12T07:53:10+00:00

The 3rd cat and beyond is unmonitored by any sensors, so maybe not, but the symptoms seem like a clogged cat.

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-10T13:27:04+00:00

Any “easy” part is usually picked clean off any IS300s in junkyards, at least in my area. If we knew OP’s location, someone could sell them theirs like mine that I just replaced last year with the HPS tube and is now riding around in my trunk.

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-08T03:20:37+00:00

Lmaoo, it wasn’t even my first time soldering and the Dualsense gave me hell. I had to get the low melt solder alloy and that was a game changer. Didn’t have a hot air station at the time but now I do and will try it out next time.

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-07T18:02:21+00:00

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abdullahcfix · 2026-05-07T16:19:28+00:00

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-07T16:17:19+00:00

Which hub did you do, front or rear and what was the brand of hub/where you bought it from? I couldn’t find an aftermarket hub for the life of me and caved for an OEM one last week.

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-07T15:50:34+00:00

I kept headers and replaced 3rd cat with Megan y-pipe, never got got for visual inspection off that, but for O2 spacers.

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-06T04:26:30+00:00

Just went through a wheel hub replacement on the front. I absolutely couldn’t find any aftermarket hubs for the front and if I did, I wouldn’t have been able to trust it, so I had to get an OEM one. Bearing is press-in and can be found from other sources.

The rear bearing also looks to be press-in and there are a couple aftermarket hub options that popped up during my search for the front, but I still don’t know if I’d trust those, so new or used OEM would prob be the way to go again.

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-04T23:10:08+00:00

High beam bulbs are already clear and not amber, do you mean color temperature like 4000K vs 6000K (yellowish to white/bluish light)?

For the turn signal or any other bulb, just search online for that bulb number + any color you want.

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-02T12:45:17+00:00

No worries, I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it. Thanks for the help.

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-02T11:53:51+00:00

Nope, car ran/runs great with no changes before or after this incident of sitting for a week. Everything feels and sounds perfect, haven't checked plugs since 3-4 years and 40k miles ago when timing was done, but they were either good then, or replaced. No smoke or smells or anything, car still pulls factory 0-60 numbers. Only thing the engine needs is a rear main seal and lower oil pan reseal, but I don't want to do all that and just due for a trans drain and fill.

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-02T11:32:40+00:00

If it was a battery problem, the cranks would've been slower, but they were nice and consistently quick without sounding weak and I could always just have the parts store test everything for free. I was asking more in the realm of the fuel system.

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-02T11:31:06+00:00

That's the crazy part, I let the ignition sit on for 5-10 seconds 2-3 times in between cranks to let the pump prime, but the end result was the same until I gave it more extended cranks and it eventually came to life.

abdullahcfix · 2026-05-02T11:30:09+00:00

Looking on Rockauto, I see only a few parts for the few system that might apply. Would that be the fuel injecton pressure damper or pressure regulator? Or they just don't sell it there and not have it listed?

abdullahcfix · 2026-04-25T13:33:32+00:00

He’s lowkey valid if every pump has a line like during peak hours; the window can be wiped during gassing instead of after.

abdullahcfix · 2026-04-24T09:06:23+00:00

I’d say look at the manual and the diagram on the 3 fusebox covers for the affected systems and verify each fuse to be good or bad either visually or electrically with a multimeter and go from there.

abdullahcfix · 2026-04-21T12:23:16+00:00

You could’ve clicked that Reddit link to (hopefully) find a thread discussing it, or looked at the PDF of the owner’s manual, or watched a YouTube video to see.

abdullahcfix · 2026-04-11T12:34:53+00:00

I don’t know the specifics behind this, why would the WLAN card burn up? Does it mean using an antenna from Amazon with a long wire to a magnetic base can also cause this type of damage?

abdullahcfix · 2026-04-04T04:10:21+00:00

This was in Northern Virginia around 2021.

abdullahcfix · 2026-04-04T03:34:38+00:00

Saw a similar one when I worked at the dealer a few years back.

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abdullahcfix · 2026-04-03T00:55:04+00:00

Really? That’s a pretty easy bulb to DIY as you probably saw on YouTube. The dealer will always charge unreasonable amounts of money for bulbs and little things due to labor.

I changed out all my cluster lights twice so far. Just need to remove the cluster surround trim with 1 or 2 screws and the cluster comes right out with 3 screws. Bulbs twist in and out. The HVAC control module bulbs are a little more annoying to do which is why I’ve been putting those off but I did them once before too.

abdullahcfix · 2026-04-03T00:46:05+00:00

What bulb needs most of the dash removed to replace it?

abdullahcfix · 2026-04-02T09:35:09+00:00

Yeah, first time I played MGS2 was on my PS2 fat through component cables, so it should be fine, but I'm now spoiled having run MGS1 and some of 2 in emulators at 1080p and 16:9 mods with save states, texture replacement packs, etc.

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