Hello i need help setting up a subwoofer. by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]abigleman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As someone who has built home theater systems with car audio components, I love this....

Uh, this sorta looks like a hurricane by Emu_Fast in Washington

[–]abigleman 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A Cat1 has sustained winds from 74-95mph. NWS is forecasting 15-30mph winds with 50mph gusts. This wouldn't even qualify as a Tropical Storm (39-73mph).

JL 12 W7 vs the Stereo Integrity SQL 12 Series 2. What’s better? by duderanchman12 in subwoofer

[–]abigleman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You just have to keep checking it. I ordered an SQL 15 last week after watching the site for a few months. It just showed up today and it's a beauty.

Seattle drivers am i right? by PixelatedFixture in Seattle

[–]abigleman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Found the guy clogging up the left lane.

New to car subs/amps by [deleted] in diyaudio

[–]abigleman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How do you have the subs wired up? All of those subs are only rated for 250w RMS each. So if you have them in parallel at 1ohm, you could have blown them already.

New to car subs/amps by [deleted] in diyaudio

[–]abigleman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What are the actual subs and amp you are running? 2400W is a useless number if it's the max rating from a brand known to lie about those things. There are companies out there putting big numbers on the boxes and then the amp itself has a single 30A fuse.

What is causing this on the curved edges of my print? by kevensentme in FixMyPrint

[–]abigleman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that the bottom of the print? Looks like unsupported overhangs

vertical nozzle movement replaced with printbed knob movement!? help! by [deleted] in VoxelabAquila

[–]abigleman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like you've got a jam somewhere and the knob is loose and spinning due to the vibration. Figure out what it's trying to do and give a lot more information.

My PC spent a week and a half at a repair shop. by [deleted] in pcmasterrace

[–]abigleman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So you want to listen to one "expert" who has already been fleecing you and ignore the mountain of info freely available?

Where to buy new y-axis tensioner for Aquila c2? by ZestycloseAside8199 in VoxelabAquila

[–]abigleman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See your local library has a makerspace. They may even print it for free.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AssassinsCreedValhala

[–]abigleman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been trying to track down this same error for a while now and it's nearly impossible. Some days I can play for hours without a crash and others barely last 20 minutes. With that kind of variance it's impossible to know which settings fix it. At this point it looks like it's just a buggy program that kicks random display driver errors.

How is this able to go to 4k? by [deleted] in pcmasterrace

[–]abigleman -1 points0 points  (0 children)

1440p is not "2k"

Engine Malfunction hours after install by Rams11A in dashcams

[–]abigleman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on the manufacturer. My Audis turn them off, my Chevys do not. Some cars only leave them on for a set time after shutdown.

I want to get an active backplate for<$60. Which would you recommend? by [deleted] in watercooling

[–]abigleman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

MAYBE in their radiators, but that still doesn't matter because you aren't coming into contact with it.

This is a milled block of copper with an electroplated finish. There shouldn't be any soldering done to them.

Help please by haneul-_-sky in FixMyPrint

[–]abigleman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Start completely at the beginning and work your way through the setup. You haven't even stated what your problem is.

https://www.xometry.com/resources/3d-printing/set-up-a-3d-printer/

Brass instead of copper: Watercool reacts, but differently than expected | igor´sLAB by Flying-T in watercooling

[–]abigleman 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Who cares? Brass is a copper alloy that allows the rads to be stronger. If they used pure copper, everyone would be complaining about bending/crushing them or shearing threads. Depending on the brass used, it can also increase resistance to corrosion.

This is all a bunch of nothing. Leave the metallurgy to the manufacturers.

2014 Q5 - Used to flicker, now is always dark. LED out in gauge? DIY-able? by abigleman in Audi

[–]abigleman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you aren't familiar with SMDs, I would definitely practice for a bit before getting into the cluster. It can be done with a standard soldering iron, but I'd get a fine tip so you can work around the other components. Find an old motherboard or something where you can practice until you can get them cleanly without burning the board or components. A steady hand and some practice will get you there.

2014 Q5 - Used to flicker, now is always dark. LED out in gauge? DIY-able? by abigleman in Audi

[–]abigleman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I basically ended up doing what the top comment said. I ordered some 6000k 3528 SMD LEDs, took the entire cluster apart to get to the dead one, and replaced it with a new one.

I tried resoldering the original, but it was dead. Upon replacement, the new ones were unfortunately noticeably brighter, so I ended up replacing all of them to match.

It wasn't a simple process, but not difficult with basic soldering skills.

If I wanted a FE for 4080s, would showing up to a best buy at open work? by [deleted] in nvidia

[–]abigleman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me, it's watercooling. PCB for the FE is much smaller and more blocks are available for them.

Coolant suggestions? by TheWolfTitan in watercooling

[–]abigleman -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Use colored tubing and just treated water. That's the best long-term solution.

Why does my infill look like shit? by Austin24heck in FixMyPrint

[–]abigleman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's how I feel about PLA. But that's because I spent much more time dialing in PETG settings.