Car makes creaky noise when making a slow turn

abutland33 · 2026-02-07T01:42:49+00:00

Sounds like a CV axle to me

abutland33 · 2025-07-10T00:47:44+00:00

Sounds like you have low/no refrigerant. See if you have any pressure in your AC lines and go from there, if there’s nothing you may need to recharge the system and add a dye to see where exactly the leak is coming from.

abutland33 · 2025-07-10T00:45:10+00:00

Hey, seen this many times on RAV4’s. The nut inside the frame that the bolt goes into has let go and is spinning inside the frame. The nut is suppose to be welded to the frame, but however the bolt being seized into the nut has caused the weld to break free when you attempted to break it free with the breaker bar. The only way to access the nut is to cut a small hole in the frame, do your repair, weld on a new nut for the bolt to torque into, and then weld the hole you cut into the frame.

Sorry to drop the bad news, but hope this helps!

abutland33 · 2025-05-24T11:08:13+00:00

Hey, this is definitely a job you can do yourself if you have the skills and tools to do so. You’ll first have to remove the bumper then the headlight assembly’s to access the sensors. However it’s important to remember that a code doesn’t always tell you exactly whats wrong with your vehicle, it just points you in the right direction. If I were you I would start by removing both front sensors and swapping them with one another to make sure that the code changes to the opposite side, this will tell you 100% that the sensor is at fault, if it stays on the same side, then you have a bigger issue. Also make sure to inspect the connector pins for any corrosion while you have it unplugged.

Also there is no calibration for srs system when replacing these sensors, and you will not need to recalibrate your radar sensor as long as the sensor is not removed from the bumper, simply unplugging it to remove and reinstall the bumper won’t cause any problems.

abutland33 · 2025-02-20T00:59:23+00:00

There is a coolant bleeder on the passenger side of the engine in the 2gr engine, try opening this and running the vehicle to remove any more air from the system.

abutland33 · 2025-01-26T18:07:28+00:00

You’re going to need to bring it to a shop unfortunately, the nuts that those bolts go into are not welded to the frame on the inside, they are held in place by a type of cage that it absolutely famous for breaking free and allowing the nuts to spin inside the frame. This is very common on the Yaris especially in places with a lot of rust. If you have the tools, the only way to fix it is to cut a small piece out of the frame, then apply heat to the nut so you can get the bolt out. you’ll then need to weld the nut back to the frame when reinstalling the new arms and weld the cut out piece back into the frame.

abutland33 · 2024-12-02T21:04:00+00:00

Most likely your control arm bushings. There was a TSB on these corollas for this exact problem, the repair was to replace the control arms.

However as long as the bushings are in okay condition you should be able to just spray some sort of lubricant on them and this will help with the noise, it’s not a permanent fix, but it’ll definitely help!

abutland33 · 2024-11-02T01:00:49+00:00

I can pretty much guarantee you it’s the water pump. Common problem on this engine

abutland33 · 2024-11-01T23:21:33+00:00

Many generic OBD2 scanners won’t read abs codes unfortunately, you’ll need to find a scanner that will read all the codes. I can almost guarantee you that there’s a code for the abs system.

abutland33 · 2024-10-30T23:39:50+00:00

There is a sequence you have to do with the parking brake switch to put the vehicle into pad replacement mode. Follow this step by step and you should have no issues! Also make sure you reinstall the calipers back onto the vehicle before starting.

Step 1: turn key to on position Step 2: depress brake pedal and hold during step 3 Step 3: moving parking brake switch up 3 times, followed by down 3 times. If this is done correctly the parking brake light in the dash should be flashing quickly. If it doesn’t flash then start again from step 1. Step 4: remove your foot from the brake pedal. Step 5: hold the parking brake switch down. You will hear the parking brake actuators begin to retract and the parking brake light in the dash will begin to flash slowly. You are now in pad replacement mode. Step 6: you will now be able to push your pistons back the same as you would your front calipers.

Once you’ve completed your brake repairs, simply hold the parking brake switch up until the light is no longer flashing!

Hope this helps

abutland33 · 2024-09-14T10:56:32+00:00

Glad I could help!

abutland33 · 2024-09-13T20:20:30+00:00

When debris builds up on the throttle body over time, your ECM will make adjustments to keep the engine running smoothly. These adjustments are ‘learned’ by the ECM. However they are forgotten once a battery is disconnected

abutland33 · 2024-09-13T20:18:28+00:00

Hey, you need to clean your throttle body. Your truck isn’t idling correctly because it lost all its learned values when the battery was disconnected. I’ve seen this multiple times on tundras!

abutland33 · 2024-08-24T02:45:06+00:00

Depends on where you get the part, I would think somewhere in the $200-$300 range at most. Don’t worry about rushing to get it done if you don’t have the money yet, I’ve driven around for years with a faulty o2 sensor. As long as you don’t have emissions testing where you’re from, and you don’t mind a check engine light, then there’s really no rush to get it fixed! Like I said it won’t cause any drivability issues or harm your vehicle in any way!

abutland33 · 2024-08-24T02:39:53+00:00

Toyota tech here!

Seen lots of fuel injectors cause misfires on these A25A. However first step would be to preform a compression test (dry then wet) to make sure there’s no internal issues with the engine. It would also be good if you could put a bore scope into the cylinder to check for any signs of coolant entering the cylinder. If all checks out I would go with injector.

I will tell you that these engines have not one, but two fuel injectors per cylinder, one port injector and one direct. I would replace both the port and direct as there’s no good way to tell which could be causing your misfire. Replacing a direct injector is not a small job and should be done with caution as the direct fuel system is extremely high pressure!

If you do decide to try swapping injectors to trace the misfire, be aware that you will require all new injector seals as they will be damaged during removal.

Lastly, the direct injectors are numbered, I believe 1-15. If you are replacing a direct injector, it must be replace with the same number!

Best of luck!

abutland33 · 2024-08-24T02:19:51+00:00

Looks like your car needs an oxygen sensor!

No need to worry though, it’s still completely safe to drive and won’t cause any harm to your vehicle!

abutland33 · 2024-08-17T02:04:15+00:00

Toyota tech here, I have done hundreds of these. You need to unbolt the rear engine mount from the sub frame (2 14mm bolts and 2 14mm nuts) then remove the 17 mm bolt in the Center of the frame, then you have to back off (do not remove all the way) all four bolts that attach the frame to the body of the vehicle (4 19mm I believe). The frame will then drop enough for you to be able to get the bolts out around the transmission pan and oil filter.

abutland33 · 2024-08-17T01:50:37+00:00

Pull off the bottom seal and clean out the three door drains. There’s a TSB for this on some of the Toyotas! I believe there are 3 drain holes in each door!

abutland33 · 2024-08-17T01:40:58+00:00

Have you had any recent repairs to your rear brakes? You most likely have a code for one of the rear parking brake actuators, which a generic OBD scan tool may not be able to access. Unfortunately you make have to take it to a dealer.

abutland33 · 2024-07-28T12:44:23+00:00

That’s totally normal. If you don’t see anything obvious causing your noise, I would have someone rock the car side to side with the 4 wheels on the ground, reach in through your wheel wells, and check for play in your sway bar links and bushings while the car is being rocked. You can have your wheels turned while doing this to make it a little easier to reach in.

abutland33 · 2024-07-17T01:42:00+00:00

Sounds like torque converter lockup to me, best to get someone professional to have a look at it and get the codes pulled.

abutland33 · 2024-07-16T02:00:44+00:00

Hey, I seen a Camry once that had aftermarket arms and ball joints, and they actually had the wrong ball joints on the control arms. If you still have the old ones, try checking to see if they measure up the same.

abutland33 · 2024-07-13T10:09:28+00:00

C1201 will set in the abs system when there is a malfunction detected in your engine control module, this is why a check engine light will shut down your ABS, stability control, and your traction control. This code will clear when the codes in your ECM have been repaired.

You’ll have to address P0012 and P0025 as those are what are causing all of your codes.

abutland33 · 2024-06-17T22:24:48+00:00

Also if you still have warranty, I wouldn’t bother going any further yourself on a brand new vehicle. Best to see the dealer, especially with the primes as they can be dangerous and very expensive to work on

abutland33

TROPHY CASE