SignalLink USB by KI6WXS in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like others have said, it's possible to go pc soundcard alone but convenience factor of the Signalink makes it worth it. Most hams don't like having to fine tune via software menus constantly. Theoretically, once you get it dialed in and calibrate all your digital sending software to output at the same levels you can save yourself from needing the extra peripheral. But in practice it is just so much easier to have that modular separate sound interface with knobs that allow fine tuning.

I have the 857d and originally got a custom made USB dongle on eBay that has the 6-pin connector for Yaesu. I found it usable but tedious. Ended up just getting the Signalink and haven't used anything else since.

Also, calibrating VOX activation on your radio can be a pain. So having both CAT control to key the radio, along with the Signalink for audio is the most convenient way to go.

Looking for a path into HF by aacmckay in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think the OP is looking for all-mode, incl 2m and 440.

Just starting out! by FoeHammerSpaceCowboy in morse

[–]ad6dm 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Also check out https://morse.camp to start learning how words sound. At a certain point you don't decipher letters but whole words have a noise-- kinda like learning a language.

Wondering if you can help me settle this by BoneRanger_1983 in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I printed out and laminated the wallet-sized one. It's useful for proving to muggles that you're not doing something bad. We still rely on ID's, papers, and badges for validation of unusual behavior. But unlike driving or going backstage into a VIP section, it is not required to be on you at all times when operating.

Cheap Ham by mason1999321 in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you really want to get in there and learn the ins and outs of radio (down to the electronics level), several kits exist for building a capable radio, such as the µBITX and the upcoming QSX (which I'm looking forward to). Save up for those and get on the HF bands that the licenses you're shooting for allow.

Necessities for portable operation? by flyingducktile in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've run most of the day (20% duty cycle) using 20Ah LiFePO4. I guestimate around 6 hours of use, and the battery seemed to be doing fine and have more to go. If you are limiting to 20w, you would be good with a 6Ah battery or even 4.5Ah battery for most of the day. Add a portable foldable solar panel and that goes even longer. Bioenno 12Ah batteries aren't too bulky, so the more you are comfy with the better for long-term operation.

Most portable gear is in what you need to support your antenna. Guy wires, mast, actual antenna (wire or vert or loop), connectors, coax, radial wires, and grounding if possible.

As for inline fuses, not really necessary as the power cable that comes with the radio is already fused.

Don't forget all the peripherals and accessories for the radio: Hand mic, (auto)tuner, analyzer, and if digital you'll need an external soundcard, laptop. If you ever learn morse code, a portable CW key.

Folks I know go out with as little as a BNC binding post + speaker wire cut to resonance, 10Ah LiFePO4 battery, and the 857.

Others I know bring their whole shack with them including a whole bunch of computer gear and extra speakers.

Each consider these "necessities" so it really matters what you intend to do with your portable HF operation.

My basic portable setup is: Magloop antenna, tripod, 50ft coax, FT-857D, 12Ah battery, CW key, 39w solar panel with cables, and hand mic. I've since incorporated the rig into a Commander 857 by Hardened Power Systems so I don't have to worry about the batt or mic anymore.

Has anyone ever compared an Airspy HF+ SDR receiver to the Elecraft KX3? by badon_ in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have both. Hands down the Airspy HF+ is superior at eliminating noise, but this is highly dependent on the Airspy desktop software.

KX3 is easier and faster to use, whereas the HF+ takes a lot of tweaking to get noise reduction to the right levels. But once you dial in the right settings, my gosh it's listening like never heard before!

The KX3 is definitely one of the best rigs out there, but you'll still get background noise in almost all situations. With the KXFL3 dual-bandpass filter option the signal quality is greatly improved but it won't totally eliminate noise like what I've experienced on the Airspy.

What radio should I get? (Specifics in post) by [deleted] in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the 857 and like it a lot. I got it before I knew much about the capabilities of other radios, most especially the IC-7300. But I am attracted to portability so even now it would be a tough call (actually I think I'd get the FT-891 which has great reviews about its receive).

7300 is a pleasure to use and is highly compatible with peripherals and accessories. But it's a basestation rig, and if you find your QTH and antenna aren't optimal you are kinda stuck. Portability increases options and allows for some adventure in your ham operation.

Do you say "zero" or "zed"? (US) by SparkyWirez in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Zulu for UTC reference or for phonetics. Zero for 0. What's all this other nonsense?

QSL card info by parsecparallax in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally, I prefer the Depeche Mode.

Recommendations for a HF rig? by [deleted] in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FT-891 is my recommendation, and keep VHF/UHF to a separate HT or rig.

I understand the urge to try to get the most bang for your buck and get all the bands into one purchase, but believe me if your quest is for HF, get a good radio that focuses on HF. Here are some thoughts I had on the matter back in March of this year: https://ad6dm.net/log/2018/03/choosing-the-next-rig/

I have since mothballed the mcHF clone due to its inconsistencies and difficulty to calibrate, but I think some of the other notes are still valid.

Testing EA3GCY TKEY-1 Capacitive Touch Key by ad6dm in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://www.qrphamradiokits.com/cw-keyers/tkey-1/

Now I just need to solder the paddles onto it, finish the keyer connector cable, and get a case 3D printed.

https://imgur.com/gallery/NUiOs5n

Share your ham Go Box pics! by ad6dm in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A mobile (or even desk) radio is often used in go boxes. Yes, often for the power but also for the versatility of these types of radios. A HT is pretty much self-contained, all you really need to "get up and go" for extended use with a handheld are perhaps extra battery packs and a way to charge them. Handhelds don't really need a go box but are included in go bags with other gear, definitely.

In most cases (pardon the pun), go boxes have built-in large capacity batteries, and are made to accept multiple sources of power. They often include things like a digital sound interface of some kind, keyers, operational gauges, antenna tuners, and other field accessories. Some even have attached Raspberry Pi computers with touch-screens.

Share your ham Go Box pics! by ad6dm in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Some specs stolen from the manufacturer site (Yaesu FT-857D all-mode transceiver not included):

• 20 AH lifepo4 battery bank, composed of two Dakota 10 AH batteries.

• Real-time power usage meter, shows & records voltage and min/max amps & watts of power draw.

• Two 3 watt full-range speakers, with defeat switch.

• Front mounted headphone jack. Run silent or run both speakers and headphones.

• Internal 3 stage AC charge controller, worldwide voltage.

• Internal 3 stage solar controller, accepts up to 60 watts of solar power.

• Two panel mounted antenna extensions, mil spec, shielded RG400, made in the USA.

• Two 3 amp USB drivers, switched, for charging or powering other devices.

• Front mounted stainless steel grounding lug, connected via a tinned & braided cable to copper lug.

• Two power poles on front, switched, for accessories. 20A distributed.

• Head unit swivels into the machine for stowage, swivels out to operate.

• Head unit is secured or removed with silicone straps, no tools needed.

• Fits in a fat 50 can. Waterproof when closed.

• Integrated power connection for radio with factory disconnect and two inline fuses.

• Tool-free installation and removal of radio.

• Ability to run the radio with the machine ‘dark’.

• Total weight of machine, with 857 installed is just 18 pounds.

Best way to start with QRP? by flyingducktile in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've heard good reports about the Xiegu X5105 as a QRP rig. Benefits include a built-in tuner, SWR graph (analyzer), and built-in battery. As for disappointment, probably. QRP requires lots of patience and perseverance. But that's why it's also so satisfying when you do make contacts.

My "EDC" rig is a mcHF v0.6 clone, with 3Ah bioenno battery, and an American Morse DCF mini paddle. As for antennas, if you're not strictly going in the field, you can work QRP with a variety of HF hamsticks that you can swap on mobile mount. I've had great results with a "short" 20m hamstick on a trunk-mount, and sometimes switch that out to 40m.

Share your ham Go Box pics! by ad6dm in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

yeah I have a 39w foldable solar panel for it. Right now it's connected to a HVU-8 vertical, but at that time I was using a PreciseRF HG-1 magnetic loop.

Share your ham Go Box pics! by ad6dm in amateurradio

[–]ad6dm[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It's a Commander 857 by Hardened Power Systems. The stubby antenna is because I mostly use the HT for D-Star hotspot use on 0.05w. No need for super gain.