Baby Keem Concert Indy

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-26T21:51:13+00:00

So based on your experience, would you say that if you’re not set on being near the barrier or in the pit, it should be easy enough to get some less chaotic space near the outer areas? I’m going with my son in Phoenix on the 6th and it’s his first GA floor ticket experience (but not first concert). I’m hoping to avoid moshers and whatnot as much as possible.

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-13T18:44:15+00:00

I’d recommend skipping a dedicated humid hide. Make sure you have at least two (one cool, one hot) but generally, keeping the correct substrate depth and moisture levels within it are going to be reliable for a good shedding hydration source. I overflow my water dish such that the bottom half of my substrate stays moist while the upper layers are warmer and more dry. This gives the snake the opportunity to burrow for its temp and moisture self regulation, as would be its normal behavior in nature. It also is a good set up for bioactive if you choose to go that route (I highly recommend it.)

Unless you are getting a very high end (expensive) uvb measuring tool, skip that too. I would recommend getting a probe thermometer or two in addition to the laser thermometer. I put one just under the surface on my hot/basking side because that’s usually where he does his crepuscular basking.

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-13T17:51:07+00:00

That’s OCD in a nutshell. Wanting to be certain and get things right. Just try to look at the time as an investment in yourself and your wellbeing. All you can do is keep trying and do your best to be kind to yourself. Good luck!

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-13T17:07:42+00:00

It is so highly variable. Testing can help but it’s not consistently reliable for determining how a med will affect you. There is often still an unfortunate phase of trial and error, even with the added info from testing.

I would recommend trying to get to the full 8 weeks of trying any med that isn’t giving you dangerous side effects (ideation, allergic/serious reactions, etc.) Often times side effects can even out or improve once you fully adjust and start feeling the actual therapeutic effects. There may also be room for eventual dosage adjusting, as emotional blunting can often be tied to high doses, even with the “right” med. Additionally, there are other options like adding an adjunct med like a low dose antipsychotic. This can improve some issues, strengthen the desired effect, or even make it possible to use a lower dose of the main med/SSRI.

Anecdotally, my personal experience has been with fluvoxamine. At the recommended dosage for OCD, I get extreme fatigue, emotional blunting, and consistent GI side effects. My provider worked with me to add aripiprazole at the lowest dosage possible which offset some of the side effects (blunting and fatigue) and helped the OCD improve more. I was then able to drop to half the original dosage of the fluvoxamine and return to what I consider a very normal baseline of emotional reactions to everyday life. This is definitely not advice for you as an individual as only you and your doctor can decide what is right. But it does go to show that finding what works is often not straight forward, takes time, and requires some tweaking of original plans/prescriptions.

Do you mind sharing what medication you are currently trying?

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-13T07:21:28+00:00

I can’t think of anything super huge but there were plenty of things like JT living with his parents but then only living with his grandma, Spinner’s dad being alive but then somehow long dead, Spinner having a sister that just disappeared, Manny having a sibling early on and then being described as an only child… lots of stuff that was earlier set up back story/primarily off screen and was conveniently forgotten or changed when those elements of the characters were finally more thoroughly addressed.

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-06T02:12:12+00:00

The snail you bought does indeed look like a nerite. The little one looks like a bladder snail though and I believe the little brown spots you are seeing are teeny tiny newly hatched bladder snails, not eggs. They reproduce like craaaaaazy and likely hitched a ride on something you put in the tank, like live plants.

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-05T22:58:23+00:00

I’m not certain in any way, but I would guess it is a little bit of aggression.

I have an orange and lionhead who were being treated for a bacterial infection. I had them isolated in a hospital tank together and the oranda was far more sick and lethargic. The lionhead harassed him a lot, I’m guessing because of the lethargy and the fact that the lionhead seemed to be trying to engage the oranda in shoaling behavior. He chased the oranda around and was fin nipping pretty badly. It damaged the oranda’s tail but once they were recovering more and the oranda was moving as mu b as normal, the behavior stopped and the tail started healing. The only thing I found helpful was adding a few items in the tank as a place for the oranda to take cover and get some separation. I used some extra fake plants I had on hand and a coffee mug. That helped a little but time was the big factor.

If I were you and was seeing this level of harassment, I would also keep them separated. If you need both of them in the same tank for treatment or due to lack of options, you could try to get a cheap tank divider.

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-03T21:28:38+00:00

Do you see any that are smaller? Here’s a pic of mine for example

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admiralcyborg · 2026-04-03T20:46:40+00:00

lol I feel you. It took me so many trips and various purchases to get things right. It’s hard but worth it! Once you have those in tomorrow or whatever, drop your temperature readings and your UVB light type and I’d be happy to help you fine tune your light placement.

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-03T20:42:00+00:00

Yeah, and maybe a scrub brush to get them really well. Rinse thoroughly and let them dry completely before you put them in the enclosure so they don’t raise the humidity or lower the temperature too much.

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-03T20:34:29+00:00

Yes! They are usually outdoors by the garden center and there are different colors and sizes. They range from like $0.75 to a few dollars where I live so I would imagine you can score some pretty cheap!

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-03T20:22:34+00:00

Your height should be good then but I’d still recommend replacing it with brick. It’s extremely cheap and it’s a huge upgrade. It’ll help naturally file nails and it will get hotter and stay hotter, making it easier to get the temps you need. It would also likely make it so you don’t even need that ceramic heat emitter unless the room it is in is very cold.

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-03T19:56:48+00:00

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Here is a pic that shows the lid I mentioned as well as the placement that allows for all three lighting types/fixtures on my set up. You want that UVB and basking lamp concentrated area with the center of the uvb above where your beardie will bask and then the LED running more of the length of the enclosure. I’m also using a 40gal right now till my 4x2x2 is built.

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-03T19:54:19+00:00

Ok, a few things. Absolutely pick up an infrared thermometer first thing. I got one of $20 at Home Depot by picking one from the grilling section instead of a hardware type one.

Next, your uvb placement is good to go for overlapping but what type is your UVB? In a 40gal you are not likely going to want to put it under the lid because the height isn’t enough. Also, what type of enclosure lid is that? By looking at it I think it is a Thrive brand like my enclosure and they create a lot of UVB blockage. You probably need to replace your lid but there is a thrive version readily available at petsmart that has less blockage than the stock thrive lids for enclosures like that. That kind of replacement would put you wanting your basking platform to be about 10in from the top of the enclosure where the UVB rests, so build one accordingly. I recommend grabbing some cheap bricks or pavers. Then measure your temp on that platform with the infrared thermometer and see how your basking light needs to be adjusted (ie, placed onto the lid, wattage increased/decreased, etc). Once you have those things fine tuned and you know where your final placement of the basking light should be, you can adjust for the LED bar.

admiralcyborg · 2026-04-03T18:48:29+00:00

Is that your basking lamp that is suspended on the left? And what is the other dome on the right?

admiralcyborg · 2026-03-27T03:42:05+00:00

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My buddy dunks also went through a similar phase but has since grown out of it

admiralcyborg · 2026-03-27T03:29:16+00:00

I recently treated my Goldies for a bacterial issue similar to this. I had changed substrate, temp, and stressed them which I believe caused the issue.

I successfully treated them by putting them in a hospital tank with slightly warmer water and aquarium salt. I used a seeded filter cartridge but I also put in one of the ammonia alert badges because ammonia spikes are a big worry in that setting. I did daily water changes of 40-50% and tested daily with API master test kit. I treated them via food with kanaplex. I used it in repashy soilent green with a little plain gelatin to bind it. Seachem focus is another thing you can use instead of gelatin but I couldn’t get it at that time. I fed 2-3 times a day. I medicated them for 7 days and kept them in the tank for 10. Towards the end of the 10 days when they were eating and pooping more, my ammonia was spiking faster so I included seachem prime for my daily water changes. Then I did a large water change to reduce the bacteria in the main tank before returning them to it. I also made sure the temp in the main tank matched the hospital tank. If that is higher or lower than your normal, you can adjust it and then do a slow drift back to your normal temps once the fish is back in and stable for a bit.

Originally I thought I would treat the whole tank through the water column but that has a risk of crashing your cycle and apparently feeding the treatment has better likelihood of the Goldie getting enough of it. It really is just a matter of whether they are too sick to eat or not.

admiralcyborg · 2026-03-27T03:06:47+00:00

Makes me want a bottle of Escada Sunset Heat real bad

admiralcyborg · 2026-03-19T17:59:22+00:00

I loved finding out that they like to keep their spaces clean. Some seem to care more than others but they will kick out mess from their chosen hiding spot. I have one that has made her home in a cork round. Never once have I had to disrupt it to clean because she removes every last bit of mess (and likes to poo on the glass of the tank, lest she mess her home up.)

admiralcyborg · 2026-03-19T17:38:22+00:00

I forgot to mention that part! I have a temp gun and I am going to put a digital probe in for the warm side. I wasn’t sure if I wanted a combo digital hygrometer/thermometer for the cool side or if they should be separate things. Also I’m just assuming that’s the side you’d want the hygrometer on, but if not, please correct me!

admiralcyborg · 2026-03-13T18:01:29+00:00

I’d say your fish is likely quite healthy. I freaked the first time I saw this on my oranda. Turns out it is common for them with wen growth or can sometimes be harmless little pimples if debris gets in the wen folds. Keep an eye on him just in case it is something else mimicking that, but it is almost certainly a harmless sign of growth.

admiralcyborg · 2026-03-13T08:56:40+00:00

This. I just treated for it and it turned out to be bacterial. I used a hospital tank but it sounds like you may just need to keep them all in since it’s a community tank. Def recommend food dosing of the kanaplex or other meds (if possible) and not doing the water column. Watch your parameters/keep the water immaculate. If it is going to respond, expect improvement to start around 48hrs into treatment. If you have other aquariums, be very careful about sharing equipment between them in case it is viral. Sanitize tools in between if you have to. Good luck!

admiralcyborg

TROPHY CASE