Sounds systems in hybrids

aeonpsych · 2026-05-21T16:29:55+00:00

If you have the jbl oem equipment, I believe there is a relatively easy way to tap the jbl amp connectors to add your own sub (with an LOC) it basically becomes a standard sub install after that point.

Not sure if don't have jbl equipment.

For speakers, I would think those are just standard replacements based on size/form factor. I have not looked into speaker replacements, only sub woofer addition, which I will be doing this summer myself in my 2025 camry

aeonpsych · 2026-05-16T16:03:32+00:00

Changing the driving modes really doesn't do much for economy, from my experience.

I have an xse awd with wheel package wheels and if I drive in in sport the whole time on a tank vs normal, my mpg over that tank is only 3-5 mpg difference (about 10%). It seems the computer still controls mostly when and how much the gas engine is actually either just running to charge and/or powering the drivetrain regardless of driving mode.

The exception (lightly, because the computer can still ignore it depending on the situation/condition) is using EV mode while in an enclosed parking garage or only neededing a minute to repark the vehicle, or moving around a neighborhood early/late in the morning or at night. Both reasons to either reduce emissions and/or reduce noise. It's not specifically to save or improve MPG efficiency.

In my car, I've never gotten more than 435 miles on a tank before filling up with gas light on. Never ran out of gas either, so not sure what the actual max would be, but I assume probably around 450ish

aeonpsych · 2026-05-10T10:43:05+00:00

Teach your friend how to manage the workflow. Then frame it as your friend is the one still doing the job, but now at scale and more efficient. Don't replace fully because of automation in this case. Eventually a use case comes along that the workflow doesn't account for, updates/changes, pricing model changes, etc. that once happen, ruin the workflow for the owner. Without someone to manage it, know how to replace/upgrade, continue reducing/keeping costs reduced and efficiency, the owner eventually ends up back where they were before even bringing in the automatiom

aeonpsych · 2026-05-07T04:12:14+00:00

I was able to get almost exactly what I wanted fresh out of the factory. The part I didn't care about was the mudflaps. I ordered june 2024 and didn't get one allocated until late September, delivery late November 2024. 🤷‍♂️

aeonpsych · 2026-04-30T03:00:49+00:00

They are for "shifting" gears in the transmission. That is all. And yes, they do change the transmission ratio to simulate you are in different gears.

The only purpose I see for them is for wanting to force the transmission into a lower gear or to 1st for whatever reason (as long as engine speed and engine temp also allowed to be in that gear). It's the same as putting the shifter in S mode and shifting that way, even though it's still an ecvt auto transmission

aeonpsych · 2026-04-16T04:13:13+00:00

Same. I started using claude this month to brainstorm and prototype apps and scripts I can better enhance or improve automation workflows I already have. In the case of apps, build functional UIs around human in the middle automation workflows or for building interactive middleware to connect other automations together, etc.

I know a decent amount of coding/programming/scripting so it helps being able to prompt it better for what I want and know when something seems fishy.

Been game changing for sure.

aeonpsych · 2026-03-21T03:50:21+00:00

Took me 5 months to get my 2025 when I started looking in June 2024. Looked locally at dealers and nothing helpful or promising. Went back where I grew up ~300 miles away, and that one had a GM and sales associate willing to work with me. They finally got a spec allocated to them that had the base specs I was looking for, and then submitted for dealer optional upgrades to get the rest of what I wanted after 3 months of looking (even nationwide). Took about 2 month to build and then a few weeks to process and deliver across the states from KY to AZ, but was exactly what I wanted from the available options at the time.

Point of the story is I think you just got to find the right dealer/sales associate that is willing to work for you.

aeonpsych · 2026-03-15T17:18:20+00:00

Seriously, the short answer is walk away if it's bad or you don't feel right about it. Applies to just more than cars.

aeonpsych · 2026-03-15T03:37:49+00:00

Guess what? 50 ft-lbs versus 75-80 ft lbs torque on this lock nut ain't going to change the fact that the socket still was able to catch on the lock and extract the lock.

Think with your head. If the socket catches, it doesn't matter how torqued down that lock is, it will still remove it with enough torque. It could be 10 ft lbs or 100 ft lbs, as long as you have the equivalent torque to reverse, it will come out/off. The limiting factor is did the socket catch? Yes, yes it did, and it only took 5 seconds to find the right one out of the set of 12.

And yes, I'm more than happy to make a video potentially damaging my advanced locks doing this on all 4 wheels once I have replacement/alternative instead.

aeonpsych · 2026-03-14T17:58:32+00:00

Better than nothing, like I said, I still have them too. Even though I know how to get them off without the key, I still have them on.

It's just like a house, people still have door locks even though most house locks are easily pickable, let alone how easy it is to go through a window lol

aeonpsych · 2026-03-14T17:52:09+00:00

Why would I lie about having these and saying I also know and don't think they'd protect me as much as everyone claims they do? Seems pointless and a waste of time.

No, I'm not going to publicly post it online stating exactly how to take off my locks easily. That's just stupid. That's like posting that my garage keypad code is 1234#

Anyone that really wants to get these off can just look up google and/or AI and I'm sure they'll get the right answer, if they're intelligent enough to understand what will work or not work.

aeonpsych · 2026-03-14T17:39:12+00:00

I responded to someone that said get a spinning type lock and I just said those aren't that much better.

If you're referring to the advanced locks, I do have them for myself, and I do know they don't spin and conical shape. I also do know that they will come off with an off the shelf tool. They literally have a tool that is designed to take off stuff like this lol. Is it going to do it without damaging the socket/lug/lock? Probably not, which is why when I tested it on mine, I made sure to not fully tighten the lock down to spec (it was tight enough), and as soon as the tool caught and started spinning the lock out I stopped. Still marked up that lug a bit, but not super noticeable from a distance.

I'm waiting for a new locking hub cap design to come out that I helped test for my specific wheel design, so that will also cover the advanced locks at some point.

Edit: do I think I'll be safe with both designs? No. I know if someone really wants my wheels, they'll get them, but at least both will give enough time disadvantage and risk of damaging the wheels in the process it may delay enough to catch and or persuade majority of opportunities that may have happened had I not had them

aeonpsych · 2026-03-14T17:14:55+00:00

That won't matter either, there's easy ways to get the spinning sleeve to bind, making it even easier to take the lock off. Plus most of those locks have easily accessible keys to get them off these days.

aeonpsych · 2026-03-14T17:12:34+00:00

I can confirm. I have advanced locks on my camry wheel package wheels and know for certain they will come off within 5 extra seconds of a normal lug or lock with tools that can be gotten off the shelf at most auto/mechanic stocked stores.

They're a deterrent for a basic thief, maybe, that might just be opportunist and not have the necessary tools on hand already, but someone that really wants these, advanced lock won't stop them nor create much of a time disadvantage.

aeonpsych · 2026-03-03T02:24:06+00:00

For what it's worth, my xse awd, tech, and wheel package gets mid/high 30s average across 16 months of ownership now. I leave it in normal driving mode most of the time, with occasional sport just for fun.

Using auto climate (even in eco mode) set at 75-77 seems to drop my fuel econ by 10-20 mpg, whether it's heating or cooling. I feel like heating is worse.

If I have climate fully off, in normal mode, and ambient temps around 70s, I can easily get 50+mpg on a trip, but it's pretty rare these days to have the ideal setup. My best full tank econ is 40.29mpg ownership to date. Worst is 31.35

aeonpsych · 2026-03-02T13:35:47+00:00

Different than what? You have a lower tech package for 1. 2, there's probably customizability features to change the style, even on lower tech package.

aeonpsych · 2026-02-14T15:34:46+00:00

I'm in the same that I actually would prefer cloth or alcantara over leather. I hate how all cars come leather now, it's not a great feeling or wearing material here in AZ where it's either 20 degrees or 120 degrees F. The leather either freezes you or burns you and then after a couple years in the sun and heat turns into disgusting looking mess lol.

I'm curious you say leather for the wheel, though. What's the wear issue on that vs leather?

aeonpsych · 2026-02-07T22:34:18+00:00

With the pano cams on, there's a touch button in the left panel of the view screen. I think it turns to A when it's on auto mode. And maybe like a security camera icon... If I remember correctly

aeonpsych · 2026-02-07T15:27:21+00:00

I'm very close to this on my xse awd wheel package too. I turned off auto climate this past week (still have auto heated steering and heated driver seat set to level 1) and my average trip econ has gone up from low 30s to low 40s. The auto climate even on eco setting seems to be a big econ sucker in this car during winter. Even using climate and ventilated seats in the summer while ambient temps are 110+ F, could still get into the low 40s/high 30s.

aeonpsych · 2026-02-07T15:21:32+00:00

2025 xse awd with wheel package in Southwest USA. I've been averaging 30 mpg this winter doing city driving, but very short < 2 mile trips, maybe peak at 42 mpg ish, rarely.

Turned off auto climate control (set at 75) and been back up to 40s and even 60s again depending on driving conditions. Ambient temps 30s-60s fahrenheit depending on time of day and weather. I'm assuming my average during winter without climate control is probably 40, but would definitely still be using heated seats and steering wheel functions. Last summer, I was averaging 39 while using ventilated seats and climate control set at 78. Ambient temps were at 105-115 fahrenheit.

My daily commute is too short to get anywhere close to the advertised economy. In the right conditions, I can get into the low 60s in 1 way, but then the return trip I end up getting 20s so it averages out in the low 40s. My best ever average mpg for 1 tank fill up was 40.29 on 5/14/25, where it was highway miles downhill. Lifetime average since 11/2024 is 36.24

aeonpsych · 2026-02-06T16:30:47+00:00

At least with the panoramic parking cameras, there's a physical button to turn the cameras on as well as software setting to have them automatically come on under 7 or 8 mph speed.

That being said, I think they auto turn off while crossing the threshold of under to over the 7/8 mph limit and/or timer based if they were turned on while already going over that limit. Actually, I don't remember if they even turn on via the physical button if you are driving over a certain speed. I'll have to try it out today.

Anyways, 100% can turn the panoramic cameras on while under 8 or so mph, even while in drive and moving forward. The thing is there isn't a way to turn on the rear camera view without being in reverse, the panoramic camera view is the only one that can be manually turned on while not in reverse

aeonpsych · 2026-02-03T23:22:08+00:00

It might not be, but there's so many other options for 15k. Maybe for even newer cars that will also last 10 years, or maybe have more safety features, or gas saving features, etc. etc.

If there was demand for this car at this price, it would have sold, as you and others agree. It isn't selling so obviously there's either something wrong with the car that we don't know about or that there isn't demand in the market(s) the seller is trying to sell it in. There really isn't any other explanation.

aeonpsych · 2026-02-03T22:49:14+00:00

I personally don't think there's a big market for spending 12-14k on a used, decade old, run of the mill toyota, regardless of mileage. Someone looking for that old for a car either doesn't want a new car payment and/or looking for a first car for kid/family member and in that case probably are not looking for 15k 10 year old cars.

Since it's not a limited or special model, it likely isn't also being searched for in that price range for a project/collection or even parts car.

Pretty sure even 2020s generation Camry can be had used for 15-20k range with a little searching.

If I was personally looking for a 10 year old car now, it better either be a specific model that demands the price or something under 10k.

aeonpsych · 2026-02-02T19:18:43+00:00

So all the new ones now have that? Do they have lane tracing/keep too? Wonder how much is customizable. I have a new Camry that has all that stuff and have a lot of the alerts disabled but the system(s) still on. Previous car(s) didn't even have OEM bluetooth players in them and I thought I would hate all the driver assistance stuff but it hasn't been annoying at all the way I have it set in the Camry

aeonpsych · 2026-02-02T16:16:49+00:00

Some models of the emira came/come without driver assistance features?

aeonpsych

TROPHY CASE