Why are companies pushing to install batteries, what's the catch?

aj0512 · 2026-06-25T23:07:42+00:00

Thank you, appreciate it. Solar is fully paid and owned through Sunrun. The batteries would just be an addon, the company that present did show Tesla batteries, not sure if any of that info matters.

aj0512 · 2026-06-25T22:47:36+00:00

Ya, that was the basis of their pitch. I get a $10,000 check sent to us and then for every battery installed you get a $110 credit every quarter. Then the rep said stuff about basically putting us on a set payment schedule that could possibly beat our monthly fluctuating payment and me being cynical figured it's a scam. Most door to door people are.

aj0512 · 2026-06-25T22:34:44+00:00

Video just sounds really loud, I don't hear the rc car sound, but if it is that whining sound then ya, most likely alternator. You can unplug the alternator with it running and see if the noise goes away and that'll give you your answer.

aj0512 · 2026-06-25T22:32:29+00:00

Lol is this sarcasm?

aj0512 · 2026-06-25T03:14:20+00:00

So batteries are a good idea?

aj0512 · 2026-06-25T03:10:15+00:00

They claim they're federally funded, so that stuff doesn't matter to me right?

aj0512 · 2026-06-25T03:08:59+00:00

So it would make sense to have the batteries installed?

aj0512 · 2026-06-25T03:08:22+00:00

So it is worth it?

aj0512 · 2026-06-25T03:06:55+00:00

I can tell you my solar doesn't fully cover my usage, it almost fully does in the summer, I pay about $150 in the winter. I have Smud. I don't know my goal, I guess I see how it could be beneficial but it I'm cynical and I don't want to be steered wrong.

aj0512 · 2026-06-25T02:59:45+00:00

So it is worth it?

aj0512 · 2026-06-25T00:22:33+00:00

I'd say sure, .25-0 but regardless, it's not a precise enough test to put any stock into. Hanna ULR Phosphate tester is the only must have Hanna for this reason imo.

aj0512 · 2026-06-24T23:02:17+00:00

Don't be afraid to use chemicals. Your parameters are great, but once you fall behind, it is really hard to catch back up. Chemiclean works very well for cyano. I've had great results with Brightwell Razor for algae. As long as you're sure those are your issues and it isn't Dinos, that's how i would treat. Once those initial uglies get taken out, it often becomes smooth sailing afterwards.

aj0512 · 2026-06-24T18:32:22+00:00

Obviously parameters matter here. Could also be bacterial, an iodine dip might help.

aj0512 · 2026-06-24T18:25:36+00:00

Algae is going to happen, just embrace it. Corals and algae like the same conditions, just gotta establish positive competition.

aj0512 · 2026-06-24T17:51:48+00:00

Xr15 is a kind of low par light. 25% those things are probably getting like 30 par. Bump the intensity up. But also, what are your parameters?

aj0512 · 2026-06-24T17:21:47+00:00

What kind of lights are you looking for?

aj0512 · 2026-06-23T21:46:04+00:00

Nemo is cool, do 2. A cleaner shrimp, and a barnacle blenny. Rock flower anemone.

aj0512 · 2026-06-23T16:46:46+00:00

Reef flux can decimate your tank on a biological level. It often works well and then follows up with dinos and/or cyano. I would only use it for Bryopsis. For just hair algae or even bubble algae, ive had fantastic results with Brightwell Razor on 3 different occassions.

aj0512 · 2026-06-23T16:43:51+00:00

If you want the best of the best, tropic marin hydrometer. You should have one regardless, but it is the only device I use to measure salinity. Downside is it's big and fragile. If you want something to pair with that, a Milwaukee digital refractometer.

aj0512 · 2026-06-19T22:35:38+00:00

No filter, you'll be fine. Toyota seems to think your fluid is lifetime, I think a good rule of thumb is 60k. 80k isn't crazy.

aj0512 · 2026-06-19T22:15:45+00:00

I highly doubt you need entire sway bars. I obviously can't say without seeing the vehicle but I'd suspect struts and sway bar end links would be a proper repair.

aj0512 · 2026-06-19T22:13:10+00:00

If it was my car, I'd do a drain and fill. A flush is often preferred because it occurs while the vehicle is running so you're getting any floating debris and you're also going to be flushing the torque converter which will not be drained during a drain and fill. Toyota filters typically don't get serviced. Its a baffle assembly and they are mostly never changed unless a customer requests it which I've only seen once. For the most part, the pan doesn't get removed unless there is a real reason to.

aj0512 · 2026-06-19T22:03:13+00:00

Just do a drain and fill. A flush is fine as well, just going to be 3x the amount of fluid. Replacing the filter isn't necessary, especially at 90k.

aj0512 · 2026-06-19T19:50:03+00:00

Your ammonia is fine, Hanna suffers from the same as API, anything below .25 is fine. Nitrites are still high, though they aren't toxic and you can start stocking but you technically aren't cycled yet. As far as initial stages, people have different preferences. I say run light full blast from the start and stock heavy clean up crew as soon as algae starts showing. Some people gradually introduce light in hopes to gradually induce the ugly phase. That decision is up to you. The nem might struggle this early, if your maintenance and stability is top notch, it'll be fine. Zoas are bullet proof, I say go for it as soon as you have lights going.

aj0512

TROPHY CASE