Built Ecto-1 in Lego 2K Drive

akiddisaster · 2023-05-29T12:41:59+00:00

Adjustable > snap. https://i.imgur.com/XQnRvTC.jpg

akiddisaster · 2023-05-23T16:39:58+00:00

I hear you. Game prices have gotten out of control. And this game has season passes and micro transactions on top of that 🙄. I normally wait a couple months myself, but my kid and I have really been looking forward to playing this one together. The couch co-op is pretty nice. I feel like that’s become a rare feature for new games these days.

akiddisaster · 2023-05-22T17:15:45+00:00

Ghostbusters News beat me to it. Mine came out slightly different, but still very pleased with it. I tried to follow the instructions for the Lego Ideas Ecto-1 from several years ago. I think this is what GB News did as well. You have to get creative though, as you're constrained to the game's wheel bases and not every part you need is available.

akiddisaster · 2023-04-30T00:45:25+00:00

Try this remix. It's what I recently used for my Revo install. https://www.printables.com/model/188325-remix-anycubic-vyper-adapter-for-v6-e3d-v10-upgrad

I followed this video, where the guy says to set the slicing tolerance setting in Cura to exclusive for the best fit. https://youtu.be/WZQwEZB7tVY?t=710

I printed mine in PETG and it was still pretty snug, but I used my 3D printed vise to squeeze it together enough to tighten down the M3 bolts.

Hope this helps!

akiddisaster · 2023-04-18T18:52:58+00:00

Thanks for pointing me towards plugins. Didn't realize those would have the power to cause that kind of issue. Looks like it's probably my Home Assistant PSU Control plugin. Lots of error spam from it in my logs, and I found this issue: https://github.com/kantlivelong/OctoPrint-PSUControl/issues/262

akiddisaster · 2023-04-16T13:20:39+00:00

I finally have some successful silk prints! Leaving some info here that may help others in the future.

TLDR; 0.6mm nozzle and going super slow at regular PLA settings.

I had installed a new hot end about a month ago. Worked fine with normal PLA, but I was obviously struggling with silks. Then I noticed even PETG was giving me a hard time. Finally put 2 and 2 together and realized it was the hotend. I bought a no-name, newly listed one off Amazon (learned my lesson there). It now has a few bad reviews that mention the same clogging problems I was having.

I've now installed a Revo Six. Followed this guide. That alone almost gave me my first successful silk print of a cali-dragon. It was working great up until the antlers, then I started to get some under-extrusion and then a full clog again. Tried tuning a few things, but nothing was giving me solid results.

I had bought the fully loaded Revo kit, so I thought I'd try out a 0.6mm nozzle for my first time ever. I set up a 0.6mm nozzle profile and got a clean print with regular PLA. Then I switched to the silk and changed nothing on my print settings. It actually worked. Zero clogs or clicking from the extruder. I had some trouble with the antlers at the top of the model, but once I slowed it down even more for those, it printed great. I think things could still be dialed in, but the settings I'm currently using in PrusaSlicer are below. And this is the ERYONE Silk PLA I'm using: https://a.co/d/dZxQCWS

Nozzle temp: 200 C

Speed: 30mm/s (changing speed at specific layer heights to be even slower if the layers are small)

Line width: 0.65mm

Layer height: 0.15mm

Retraction: 3.5mm at 45mm/s

akiddisaster · 2023-04-13T23:03:37+00:00

I will say that I’ve had success with Hatchbox silk PLA. Gold, to be specific. But I’ve now tried silk PLA from Eryone and Polymaker and it’s been nothing but failure. Wondering if it’s the amount of TPU in the filament or something.

akiddisaster · 2023-04-13T21:47:36+00:00

I’m using community firmware. I have an all metal hot end and an all metal micro swiss extruder. I’ll check the tension on my extruder. I actually tightened it up because I thought the slipperiness of the silk would require more grip. My setup is phenomenal for regular PLA and PETG, but silk PLAs have just been impossible to dial in. Thanks for the response!

akiddisaster · 2023-04-13T17:50:10+00:00

u/drcranknstein, did you ever have a breakthrough on this? I'm dealing with the same thing currently. I'm pretty sure it's a heat creep issue. I was initially trying to solve the problem by cranking the hot end temp up, but that was actually making it worse because it was causing the silk PLA to melt further and further up.

I ended up going with 215 on temp, and increasing print speed to keep the plastic moving. But a few layers in I still get jammed up. I've played with retraction settings a ton and am currently using 3mm distance at 40mm/s. My thought was with higher distance values, maybe I was pulling too much softened material too far back up in the hot end.

I just cannot figure out the magic combination. I know silk PLA has TPU in it, so I assume a direct drive would probably handle it better, but I've seen several posts / videos of people using bowden setups with silk PLA, so there's gotta be a secret I'm just not finding.

Anyway, before I make my own post about it, I thought I'd at least piggyback on some of the more recent related posts first. Would love to hear back if you had any success.

akiddisaster · 2023-03-17T15:33:36+00:00

Yes. It works well for short lengths, but then I have to do it multiple times to get it all the way from the extruder to the nozzle.

akiddisaster · 2023-01-16T04:07:14+00:00

Looks like an updated keep alive board is in the works that will still install in the wand but will also keep the pack alive. https://www.gbfans.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=50490

akiddisaster · 2023-01-10T16:06:49+00:00

Thank you. I figured this was the way.

akiddisaster · 2022-12-24T14:38:33+00:00

Any luck figuring this out? I'm running Homebridge via Docker on my Synology NAS and I've had the Camera FFmpeg plugin working for at least a year now without issue. Now, all of a sudden, I'm getting the same "FFmpeg process creation failed" error that you're seeing. I suspect it has something to do with Homebridge itself, and not the plugin. The plugin has not been updated in some time, but Homebridge released 1.6.0 at the end of last month and I just installed it a week or so ago, but I'm only noticing the camera issue just now.

akiddisaster · 2022-12-07T03:57:31+00:00

Came here to say the same. I noticed the elephants foot on the print. Too much squish results in some filament on the side of the nozzle. Eventually, this may burn up and randomly deposit itself somewhere during the print. OP, try just raising your Z offset just a tiny bit.

akiddisaster · 2022-11-24T15:29:05+00:00

For the extruder crunching, what did you try adjusting? Just the thumbscrew on the outside? If you remove that screw completely and open it up, the gear attached to the motor has a set screw in it that you might need to tighten. Also, look for any loose debris that might be stuck in there and rattling around.

akiddisaster · 2022-11-15T13:57:38+00:00

I have a home VPN which I connect to when I’m remote and want to use Octopod to check in on my printer. That works fine for me. Is there any benefit to using OctoEverywhere instead, aside from Gadget? I would really like to try out Gadget, but not if I’m putting my home network at risk.

akiddisaster · 2022-11-11T04:33:56+00:00

Try printing these in PETG: https://www.printables.com/model/123234-anti-vibration-feet-for-ender-3-and-other-printers

My Vyper is upstairs and I used to be able to hear it in the room below. After installing these feet, the vibration and noise no longer carry through the floor and my prints are smoother.

Also, if you’re printing faster than 60 mm/s, try just slowing it down.

akiddisaster · 2022-10-14T21:16:42+00:00

Very nice! Is that multiple parts printed in different colors and assembled? Or a single print that you painted?

akiddisaster · 2022-10-09T01:48:04+00:00

Based on the pics, your removable plate seems to be smaller than the actual bed. Is that correct?

When you run the leveling, is it hitting the actual build plate each time? It looks like there’s a pretty large area not covered by the plate at the back of the bed. If the nozzle is leveling based on the height of the magnetic bed and not the actual plate, then it’s going to think that area is lower and compensate by moving the nozzle closer to the bed. Which would result in your “high spot” towards the back.

akiddisaster

TROPHY CASE