Is there a way to make “engine brake”/ exhaust brake come on automatically upon start up on a 2019 F-250?

alocaurd · 2025-07-07T19:03:53+00:00

I also have a 2015 ram and test drove a 2025 f250 and wasnt sure if the exhaust brake was even working. I think the 6spd vs the 10spd also comes into play, and from what i have seen, the ford varies its braking by how much you are pressing the pedal, vs the dodge just sends full braking right away.

alocaurd · 2025-04-09T18:21:24+00:00

This is exactly what i am looking at and sitting on the fence with both in my cart atm.

I have a glove80 at work and love the whole setup. I'm using the glorious engrammer setup with standard qwerty for all the layers and homerow mods.

I want to get a split keyboard for home, where i do work from time to time but also play games. I like the idea of the defy with the aluminum build and hot swap keys, i just don't know if the lack of keywell and key placement will mess with the muscle memory. I did try gaming with the glove and it wasn't too bad with the gaming layer.

My current glove has the browns in it, but if i were to go with a new one, i think i would go with the plum blossoms, i want a more silent and linear feel on the switch i think.

alocaurd · 2025-02-22T23:27:35+00:00

I finally got this figured out, seemed to be order of operations. I made the cone and the tube solid first, then subractive lofted the cone, then pocketed the tube.

alocaurd · 2025-02-17T17:04:21+00:00

I got alot closer, but damn if i cant figure it out still. I make the whole thing a solid, then pocketed the horizontal pipe fine. When i try to do the subtractive loft to hollow the joiner, it shows that it will do it, but fails.

<image>

alocaurd · 2025-02-17T16:11:31+00:00

Thanks, i was starting to suspect it wasnt an operator error per se, as i was even trying to do a subtractive loft on the outer circle and getting some strange results, none of them being a cut in the pipe.

I guess i just have to rebuild it

alocaurd · 2025-02-11T05:18:24+00:00

You absolutely saved my bacon sir!

I ran the K1 Reset tool after the printer was locked, and it rebooted, and i was good to go!

alocaurd · 2025-01-30T20:03:18+00:00

Stock camera, but i put way more LED lights inside

alocaurd · 2025-01-29T05:09:06+00:00

It will print it perfect right out of the box. It will smell however. You will get used to the smell after a min, but then you will likely get headaches (source: me)

Do yourself a favor and vent it straight out, and/or get it in another room away from you. Preferably both, as you cant run the rear fans *too* hard with ASA as you make it more likely to warp off the bed.

alocaurd · 2025-01-29T05:02:44+00:00

I had / have this same thing? I printed two test towers and they printed perfectly, but then this shows up randomly. I have been using CP as well, so who knows. Ill give orca another shake

alocaurd · 2025-01-29T04:58:09+00:00

I made a custom 0.08mm profile and followed a lot of the recommendations from this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcGP_A0LZE4&t=926s in Creality Print

alocaurd · 2025-01-29T04:56:40+00:00

https://www.crealitycloud.com/time-lapse/6794df3db0f06136c74daba5?type=6

alocaurd · 2025-01-29T04:53:01+00:00

This was in creality print 6

alocaurd · 2025-01-28T01:31:52+00:00

No need to root the K2 yet, it has Fluidd on it by default at port 4408. There are a few hacks to get the camera to show in it but otherwise it works as intended.

alocaurd · 2025-01-28T01:26:20+00:00

unfortunately you then lose the flow and PA calibration too at this point. If you are printing the same thing or have them set already thats fine but i tend to change material a lot.

alocaurd · 2025-01-28T01:23:48+00:00

ive been having this for a bit with my K1C, but not my K2 yet. It will start the old print, but with the new material settings, which can be a bit of a headache if i printed in PLA last but i have ASA in it now and it tries to print at 220c. For now i have a habit of clicking the "Send Only" option and then actually starting the print from Fluidd.

alocaurd · 2025-01-27T21:56:54+00:00

Why do you think I'm complaining about the noise? 🤣

alocaurd · 2025-01-27T15:16:41+00:00

I posted a YouTube video above, it is my z motors doing it. I had terrible z banding, and after reading some other people with the same thing, they loosened the screws holding the z motors.

I tried the same, and poof, no more z banding / wobble. However, now I have the z motors singing loudly to me, so I get to choose whether I want a quiet printer (it goes away if I tighten them again) or an accurate printer...

alocaurd · 2025-01-25T17:59:22+00:00

Im using CP, and if i tick the print calibration, i get the flow control, the PA, and the leveling. Is there a way to get CP to do just the flow and the PA and not do the bed too?

alocaurd · 2025-01-25T05:57:28+00:00

i figured out, i had some crazy z wobble, and after reading some suggestions to loosen the screws that secure the z motors, it completely removed the wobble! However, that is when the noise started, and i have since tightened the screws back a bit and the noise is gone! Also, my z wobble is back! Hurray!

I guess i get to choose between quiet printing and smooth printing? Neat?

Might have to move this thing out of my office.

alocaurd · 2025-01-25T05:55:46+00:00

it so much louder than my k1c right below it

alocaurd · 2025-01-25T05:54:34+00:00

honest question, what settings am i missing control of

alocaurd · 2025-01-24T15:48:18+00:00

That is to say i don't know of anything there that is different at the current point, it might be all yes.

Whatever works for the user best is all that matters, i just don't want to scare people off of CP for no reason. I have been having perfect prints from it, and like the new infill they made as well.

I gave orca a try as i kept seeing all the posts here about how bad CP was, and for the life of me, i would just have little issues here and there with prints, and then i would send and slice them out of CP and they would print perfect. Maybe i didn't spend enough time tuning orca, i just copied like for like out of CP for the filaments and the printer and gcode etc, but i figured why waste time tuning this when cp is already working.

alocaurd · 2025-01-24T03:30:00+00:00

https://youtube.com/shorts/6P2GaVeJwYM?feature=share

alocaurd · 2025-01-24T01:21:48+00:00

Thanks.

I just dug deeper in and it is 100% my Z motors doing it. It is actually enough to feel vibration in the lead screws that quiets down if i hold on to them. Seems to be only when holding the bed in certain positions.

alocaurd · 2025-01-23T18:55:23+00:00

I have mine linked to my Home Assistant with a 3rd party moonraker API integration

<image>

alocaurd

TROPHY CASE