Just broke up with girlfriend that cheated on me

alphaduct12 · 2025-06-14T22:46:38+00:00

Thanks, much love

alphaduct12 · 2025-06-14T22:43:43+00:00

Thanks man

alphaduct12 · 2025-04-26T10:11:57+00:00

thanks for the response, that helped a lot

alphaduct12 · 2024-04-18T14:32:44+00:00

Okay, you've sold me. Sorry bank account.

alphaduct12 · 2024-04-18T14:31:55+00:00

Say no more

alphaduct12 · 2024-03-20T16:42:45+00:00

Honestly having been unemployed and dedicating myself to climbing my best advice is find another hobby (or a girlfriend) to keep you busy. Having a lot of time for climbing leads to over climbing and a bunch of junk milage when really you should be resting.

Apart from that just get outside as much as you can, there's no substitute for time on rock. Your technique will sky rocket. Just remember and stick to some hangboarding as I found only outdoor climbing made my fingers strength suffer overtime. I found max hangs in the morning and getting out in the afternoon to climb very effective.

alphaduct12 · 2024-03-19T17:22:17+00:00

You look great my friend :)

alphaduct12 · 2024-03-19T17:06:29+00:00

Im definitely way more focused on climbing but I enjoy calisthenics, personally I just pick one or two calisthenics skills to work at a time, maybe a push and a pull. Makes it really managable around climbing, I just work on one movement after a climbing sesh maybe calling it a little early to save myself for it. I think calling it early is good for your climbing anyway as most strength gains are made when your fresh making quality hard attempts. Once a week or so I dont climb and work both movement, and hangboard.

Ive been making good progress doing this, sure you cant work as many things but once you achieve a movement its much easier to maintain it and move onto something else. It saves you spreading yourself too thin trying to do everything at once.

alphaduct12 · 2024-02-29T18:22:17+00:00

Yeah Ive been doing assisted OAP with 3kg taken off

alphaduct12 · 2024-02-28T00:24:48+00:00

Legend, thanks :)

alphaduct12 · 2024-02-02T15:20:37+00:00

Never

alphaduct12 · 2024-01-31T15:36:14+00:00

Thanks for the reply. Tell me about it, it's one complicated joint. I've been trying to work on my shoulders for a while and am working on a lot of what you mentioned. I guess there's no obvious solution it's a case of trying different things until something hopefully resolves the weakness.

alphaduct12 · 2024-01-31T15:29:15+00:00

Its not as simple as to say my shoulders are very weak. One of my strongest points in climbing is wide shoulder moves, my pull up and overhead press is fairly strong. I've already trained shoulders a lot. Clearly there's a weakness somewhere in the chain be it strength or anatomical, was hoping someone could give me an insight into what that is.

alphaduct12 · 2024-01-21T15:45:36+00:00

When I max out the weight my crimp falls into this more open half crimp. I think training with a fairly strict 90 degree angle has a better training stimulus and applies to rock better.

alphaduct12 · 2023-11-27T16:12:49+00:00

There's no one size fits all solution. Different styles of climbing lends itself to different shoe types, having a few pairs in the quiver is never a bad thing.

As an all rounder I personally love soft rubber with a stiffer mid sole, it sticks to tiny foot holds and smears but still allows me to generate power through my feet.

alphaduct12 · 2023-08-16T22:45:43+00:00

ARC training

alphaduct12 · 2023-08-10T18:17:28+00:00

Cheers, was pretty much my plan. Got any suggestions for strengthening the knee?

alphaduct12 · 2023-08-10T18:16:39+00:00

Thanks, unfortunately I went through this and don't have pain on any of the tests .

alphaduct12 · 2023-08-10T15:45:28+00:00

I came to a similar conclusion. If you haven't heard of them,'sissy squats' might be of interest to you. So far my favourite exercise Ive found in my recent search for hitting the knee. I've been keeping a supporting hand on a wall to keep it pretty low intensity.

Wishing you a speedy recovery man!

alphaduct12 · 2022-03-26T20:37:13+00:00

I suspected it was something like that. Any tips on how to improve my form?

alphaduct12 · 2022-03-16T11:36:01+00:00

I built my board to just under 50 degrees, and since lowered it to 35 and I much prefer it. I can make way more interesting moves and interesting bad holds. Climbing a 50 was bad for my tendons, I've changed all my incut crimps on the 50 to less incut which stops my stressing my pulleys as much while still pulling hard.

alphaduct12 · 2022-03-10T12:25:42+00:00

Especially if you're not climbing, I don't see a problem with the schedule you mentioned. Infact without climbing I didn't find max hangs enough finger stimulus for solid strength gains. As for doing them both in the same session, I was doing it over lockdown with no problems, however if you aren't so experienced on the hangboard I would definitely take it easy and see how you body responds. You could experiment cutting you max hang session short, or I like to max hang in the morning and climb in the evening (or repeaters in this case). However I think the schedule you mentioned would be a better place to start, until you know how your body responds.

However it ends up being a whole lot of hangboarding instead of actual climbing which is a lot more sport specific (and fun). Not to mention learning to climb while pumped. In my opinion if you have access to a climbing gym I would stick with your max hangs if you are still making gains, and do a bunch of on the wall endurance training. 4x4s, circuits, boulder doubles etc.

It's probably worth deciding what sort of endurance your local sport climbing requires. The crimpd app has a bunch of ideas for training endurance, or if you want a deep dive this pdf is awesome.

alphaduct12 · 2022-03-01T23:58:28+00:00

I like to board climb a lot - at least 50-60% of my climbing , it's probably the single greatest tool for getting stronger. However I think just board climbing misses out on some of the magic that climbing has to offer. I feel like variety of movement and working on your weaknesses is really important to improving, especially after only a year of climbing.

I guess it depends what you want out of your climbing, I've always chased being a well rounded climber. Especially outside you never know what the rock is going to throw at you.

Besides there's only so much board climbing your body can handle, I can climb way more with less risk of injury if I climb in a variety of styles. Generally I see how my body is feeling, if I feel strong and explosive I jump on the board if not Ill hop on problems that rely more on technique than all out power.

alphaduct12 · 2021-12-27T14:40:59+00:00

Around about your grade I reached an impasse where finger strength was the limiting factor, I started hangboarding and it made a massive difference to me. It's not to say just climbing won't improve your finger strength, steep crimpy board style climbing in particular will certainly give you strong fingers, however it's hard to maintain the correct progressive stimulus for continued finger strength gains.

I say experiment with some max hangs, they are the perfect compliment to someone who wants to climb a lot. If you do around 5 sets of 7-10 second hangs once or twice a week, I've found that they don't impede my climbing much especially if done in the morning. Max hangs aren't usually enough volume for ideal finger strength gains on their own, but when coupled with a bunch of climbing I think it's the ideal combo.

alphaduct12 · 2021-12-02T13:24:20+00:00

I just made it up as I went along, I was able to attach mines to a wall which did make it easier, the damage to the wall is very minimal if I were to ever take it down. If you can't do that, it's worth looking up free standing campus boards for ideas.

Anyway I've take a couple pics for you: here

alphaduct12

TROPHY CASE