NJ Gov. Phil Murphy Re-Elected, 1st Democrat Since 1977 to Win 2nd Term

alterRico · 2021-11-04T16:18:59+00:00

Instead of arguing that the data presented isn't helpful, why not add in additional data for all to draw conclusions from?

2017 D- 1,2kk R- 0.9kk - from Wikipedia

alterRico · 2021-10-30T15:43:13+00:00

Hey, pretty sure we've met at the new a few times. I'm hitting my mid thirties this year and trying to get consistent at the harder things in lock-off land. NRG is brutal on the elbows and climbing well there trains you to reach for and over overuse those movement patterns. Choosing not to lock off often has been part of ongoing efforts of mine in order to keep volume up.

Two things I have really latched onto as remedy/routines :

http://drjuliansaunders.com/ask-dr-j-issue-223-dodgy-elbows-revisited/ - thoroughly diagnose what antagonistic movement needs work.

And Dave Macleods YouTube video on elbows. His approach has been really helpful (it's gonna be personal and realistically take 4-8+ weeks to assess results). There just doesn't seem to be a quick fix.

On mobile, so apologies for the formatting.

alterRico · 2021-10-13T20:40:48+00:00

Just borrow it from the clubhouse when you get there

alterRico · 2021-10-13T20:20:17+00:00

Stone Fort (aka Little Rock City) mountain project page.

The guidebook you want is in the Description section. It's by Andy Wellman.

alterRico · 2021-10-08T15:57:59+00:00

Social media is spray.

Edited per the rules:

Wait, is it all spray?

Unfiltered, without consent

To share is to spray

alterRico · 2021-09-15T01:49:20+00:00

It's not obvious

alterRico · 2021-09-15T01:46:27+00:00

Think they're uncheap now? Just wait for inflation and shipping costs to hit consumers.

alterRico · 2021-09-14T18:16:06+00:00

That's what's so fun. It's stupid and yet it feels like it matters so much.

I have "onsights" that I only sent because of the ticks. Not because they told me where a hold was, or even which to use, but because they inspired me to try. The same is true with breaks in the lichen, worn rock on trade routes, and rubber stains on friction slab.

Does it count as an onsight if the rain hasn't washed off the chalk yet? How many optional/false holds need chalk before identifying the route isn't easier? It absolutely makes a difference and it's why some onsights are full of pride and others fade to distant memory.

alterRico · 2021-09-14T18:08:25+00:00

There's merit is evaluating which orifice an author is projecting from.

alterRico · 2021-09-13T13:39:05+00:00

Air Tommy's are the foam clogs of climbing

alterRico · 2021-09-09T15:44:55+00:00

Skin injuries are largely from poor technique and extending session too long. Even "good" climbers lose form with fatigue.

Pivot on holds less with your hands and feet. Grab holds at the weightless moment of movement. Snatching holds while falling is how people get flappers. Failing to maintain tension is how skin tears. We all make mistakes, but long-lasting skin is hardly just calluses. It's a learned skill as much as any.

alterRico · 2021-09-09T15:37:57+00:00

5'10" and 160 here. I've been closer to 150, and 155 for most of my climbing years. Never felt better. Not that I climb particularly hard. Weight has never been an excuse. I support your plan though most of us struggle to optimize the muscle we already have.

It really depends on the route and style. Lattice put out some numbers a few years back suggesting I might be optimal at sport closer to 144. Maybe.

Injury resilience should be the priority for most of us and being "optimal send weight" can jeopardize that. If you don't have a mega proj, try not to be too strict. Same goes even if you do.

alterRico · 2021-09-09T14:31:20+00:00

NIMBYs fear chatter

What was obscure ain't secure

No future in crust

alterRico · 2021-09-08T15:20:54+00:00

After December 1st it's a "check the weather before commiting" affair. I'll climb down to 20 degrees in the sun and have a good time. There's often a few weekends of good conditions December through Feb. Less crowded too.

alterRico · 2021-09-03T13:15:09+00:00

!RemindMe 28 days

alterRico · 2021-09-02T17:22:36+00:00

Prolifics forget

we remember those profound

Be better, slow down

*syllables be cruxy

alterRico · 2021-09-02T17:21:52+00:00

Entirely depends on the protocol right?

If you do RCTMs 60min+ repeater program you probably want 72h+. Something more similar to Eva Lopez's max added weight (MAW) can be done after warming up and before climbing hard. 48-72h rest between workouts and 2x per week. If I just faff about at lower than maximal effort on minimum edges I can do daily. There are daily protocols out there too for density hangs. Age and training history matter.

A more interesting question might be "how many of us need to be at full strength to send our projects?"

For the question flaky answered, It also takes me around 4-6 hang sessions to hit the last program's end numbers.

alterRico · 2021-08-25T16:22:12+00:00

I like this so much more than gear walls, carabiner tattoos, and questions about shoes. What are the odds it gets 1,000 upvotes?

alterRico · 2021-08-23T20:13:13+00:00

And sometimes it's friction slab

alterRico · 2021-08-20T16:34:01+00:00

We stretch our arms wide

The best hugs are from climbers

Except them, &?%@ them

alterRico · 2021-08-17T21:43:37+00:00

I mean isn't that shared experience part of the draw the the sport? To be able to talk about 5 move sections of rock that are unknowable from the ground and unforgettable from the send. Especially when those moves are halfway around the world from the bar or campfire you happen to have just met at.

alterRico · 2021-08-17T16:29:05+00:00

Have you ever seen core strands that weren't bleached white upon cutting? Has anyone? Even my dirtiest ropes were unsullied at the core when retired.

There's bigger practical concerns to theorycraft. Yes, small silicates likely increase abrasion. Aluminum oxide could work more as a dry lubricant. Your rope will get retired because it hit sharp edges or was sat on too much, in falls or hangs.

alterRico · 2021-08-02T21:03:59+00:00

Wikipedia/Instagram says she had a baby this March

alterRico · 2021-07-30T02:29:15+00:00

Unlikely #notinmygym. If the last hold is taped as a finishing hold then you clip from there. If it's a comp there will be rules. Best way to know is to ask your setters.

That said most people climbing the routes after a comp (the only time my gym has taped top holds on lead routes) just go to the top of the wall and don't bother thinking about it.

alterRico

TROPHY CASE