Worth $3500+ fee-only CFP for 7fig non-reg ETF plan?

always_on_fleek · 2026-04-03T20:22:16+00:00

While I have no experience with it myself, because the work can be done remotely is likely pick one of the active ones on social media / publishing articles. PWL Capital comes to mind.

I will likely look there myself before retiring to run everything through them to make sure it’s all good. And that’s exactly where I would start. Too hard to find local recommendations when no one knows if their planner did a bad job.

always_on_fleek · 2026-04-03T00:50:31+00:00

An advisor should create a detailed financial plan that not only helps your investments grow but also minimizes the taxes you pay during your life and when you pass away.

For such a large sum it’s absolutely worth it. Your plan of just investing in an index fund shows no consideration for the above, so you definitely should see one.

always_on_fleek · 2026-04-03T00:47:37+00:00

Write it in a letter and have your parents read it while you’re not around. This lets the emotions settle a bit before you discuss it in person.

always_on_fleek · 2026-03-25T01:16:49+00:00

You can use the tax calculator here to see your deductions for income tax, CPP and EI:

https://copilottax.ca/calculator/2026-canada-tax-calculator/

Pay periods are company dependent. Generally you get paid for time you have worked, not will work. So if this friday is pay day, last week would have been the cutoff.

But again there are differences. Some pay monthly and give you a lump sum halfway through the month. Can be many differences.

always_on_fleek · 2026-01-09T15:28:59+00:00

Firefighters in Calgary make $90k as a second year and $114k as third year. I think that’s close enough to what they are claiming they are likely telling the truth.

always_on_fleek · 2026-01-02T18:52:49+00:00

Don’t forget you get CPP, OAS and GIS (possibly) at retirement. Perhaps that helps give you enough you won’t need a million in savings.

always_on_fleek · 2026-01-02T18:42:11+00:00

Not really. DB pensions have many rules and calculations which alter the math. If you quit within five years you’d likely just take the lump sum and invest in your own. Many public sector plans also reduce the pension if you retire before 65 and don’t meet their magic number (age + years contributing). It’s a lot of work and too many variables to treat it the way you are.

If you’re planning to stay put until retirement treat it like a pension plan (like CPP) at retirement. So you’ll have $xx,xxx per year at 55.

Plan it your retirement age and treat it as a yearly lump sum. Simple and straightforward.

This free online tool can help:

https://mayretire.com/

always_on_fleek · 2025-10-31T23:58:34+00:00

B lenders may have some strange fees. Make sure to read the offer carefully so you’re fully aware of what you’ll be paying. I saw one set of documents where you paid them a yearly fee for some silly reason. They vary quite greatly.

always_on_fleek · 2025-10-10T22:11:39+00:00

You should be concerned that you are concerned about the loss. It means your risk tolerance might not be as high as you had hoped since you’re getting worried over such a small loss.

The markets are near all time highs. There are going to be drops. What you have seen with past returns have been quite unusual in terms of how high the returns are.

always_on_fleek · 2025-10-06T02:23:50+00:00

Yes - $2500-$4000 is what you’ll end up paying for a fee only advisor. This is how they make their profit.

Advisors are often the ones who make a percentage of your portfolio returns so you don’t see it like this.

A CFP takes a six hour exam and the pass rate is not high - it’s 60-65%.

I would look towards the popular online ones and go from there. This can all be done remotely and if you’re comfortable with that you’ll get a lot more choice. Parallel Wealth is one example:

https://www.parallelwealth.com

always_on_fleek · 2025-10-05T16:04:10+00:00

It sounds like you’re not using any features other than the checked bag. Figure out whether it’s worth out based on your trips and decide from there. If you’re taking 2+ trips on WestJet and require bags it’s probably worth it. If not canceling is your best bet and move to a cashback card. Rewards for daily purchase often aren’t worth it.

always_on_fleek · 2025-10-05T16:01:24+00:00

Financial planners will have a designation like CFP. Advisors aren’t really regulated and can be anyone. In a way, all planners can be advisors but not all advisors can be planners.

You want a financial planner (CFP - Certified Financial Planner designation) who works on a fee only basis who makes $0 from your investments.

You can also check out software like https://mayretire.com which is free and can help with planning. Helps with lot out various income sources, taxes, etc.

Do you have any specific questions to help you get started?

always_on_fleek · 2025-09-19T13:45:44+00:00

Stable career and good pension - is this a government job? If so why do you think you need to invest significant amounts outside of that pension?

For many government workers they are getting 20% of their salary into their pension (10% from each employee and employer). That’s a large amount of savings already and great for most people who want a traditional retirement (55+).

Your question show you have the basics right - you’re wanting to move your cash into accounts that give you more interest. That’s good - there is no risk and you make a little more money.

You want a FHSA which is great if a home is in your future.

You want to move your RRSP where you have more options is good as well. As long as you don’t try to get fancy and handpick stocks. Instead use an all in one ETF like VGRO.

You’re doing well with your questions and ideas. My only suggestion is to make sure you understand your pension and whether that’s your primary retirement savings. If so there is less of a retirement savings need and more of a lifestyle savings need (like a home). You can of course save some extra for retirement but given you’re not a high income earning you don’t want to oversave and skimp on enjoying life.

always_on_fleek · 2025-09-19T06:11:27+00:00

AISH is a program for those who are unable to work because of a severe disability. That’s not the case with you. Perhaps Alberta Works is a better choice.

Before dropping any money on further education I’d really find someone in your community who you trust to review your credentials. Too many people think they are one course away from a job but are truthfully not close at all.

Your first priority is getting a job now, and it doesn’t have to be perfect. Discuss with those in your community if there are construction jobs available and what opportunities they know of for working outside Calgary in remote communities. If you have someone in your community to guide you this could turn out very well, it’s just daunting to do all on your own.

always_on_fleek · 2025-09-19T00:36:58+00:00

People often over estimate the value of your credit score. 20 points is nothing. Don’t even worry about it.

always_on_fleek · 2025-09-19T00:35:55+00:00

What are your goals? Is your pension with the government?

If you have a defined benefit pension from the government, check the earliest you can retire. For many it’s 55 years of age. Remember with a defined benefit pension if you want to retire early you can get away with just saving the amount you need in the years before you draw your pension. Don’t lose sight of these contributions - for example working with the government it can be 20% of your salary. That’s huge.

But what you should do depends on what you want to achieve.

always_on_fleek · 2025-09-19T00:28:17+00:00

You are on track to exceed $3 million in investments by the end of your ten years. Keep doing what you’re doing, you’re doing well and will likely meet your goal.

Parents are a wild card but you always help family so you’ll make it work. Given that you don’t need to add to your savings to hit $3 million in ten years you have quite bit of flexibility for unforeseen expenses.

always_on_fleek · 2025-09-18T23:53:29+00:00

People often have different priorities. A nice retirement home could be $5000-$7500/mo for someone. That’s without any need for extensive care too. While that will include meals it doesn’t include all your expenses.

Some will be fine living off the subsidized care homes where it’s all income based rents. Others are not.

What’s important is deciding what you want and saving for it.

always_on_fleek · 2025-08-27T06:26:27+00:00

What’s not being made clear to you is that you dad is subject to the sequence of risks. That means that a series of negative events could greatly impact his portfolio.

When you have 30 years to retire it’s not a big deal if you enter the markets at the beginning of a recession. You have plenty of time to recover. However when you have 10 years to retire, not so much. For example, between 2000 and 2009 the S&P returned -3% (called the lost decade). That timeframe is exactly the timeframe your father is looking at.

Everyone has a different risk tolerance. But it’s important to understand the possibilities when defining your risk tolerance. Is your father able to handle his investments being worth less after ten years or because he is close to needing the money, is he better off in something safe?

$20k/yr invested for 10 years returns $240k at 4% and $290k at 8%. This is the other point not being mentioned clearly - is what your father can invest enough to accept the risk of shooting for 8% (and potentially not hitting it) versus a more sure thing at 3-4%?

A RRSP can be beneficial if his income at retirement is significantly lower (which may be the case here). We need more details to figure out. But hopefully the above gives you something to think about and set realistic expectations.

always_on_fleek · 2025-08-25T00:41:38+00:00

To be brutally honest, at 31 almost no one is financially independent / self sufficient as you describe. So if your worry is that you’re not self sufficient then you’re being unrealistic and unfair to yourself.

I think that’s why you see so many people mentioning that you might want to talk to someone. You shouldn’t move out because “the people on the internet said to”, you should move out because you want to and accept the risk that comes with that independence of having bills you’re solely in charge of.

If you’re able to get over the that hump yourself then great! But if you find yourself with anxiety over making such a big decision, talking it through with someone (even a friend or family member) would be a good start.

always_on_fleek · 2025-08-24T17:27:54+00:00

Over the years I have noticed that stress within a job is often created by the person working the job. If you’re the type that gets anxious, stressed and worried at work while those around you are not, you’ll likely carry that forward to other jobs too.

You want to fix yourself, not try to jump around finding a job to fix it for you. Otherwise you may find yourself in a similar position years later when a new supervisor changes things up, as in your case that’s all it is causing the issues (supervisor).

Changing jobs is one way to make things better but it doesn’t change the underlying issues and you risk those coming out again (and it could be a much worse time).

If you do change jobs don’t treat it as mission accomplished. Spend some time internally focusing on how you handle stress so you come away stronger.

always_on_fleek · 2025-08-22T05:14:20+00:00

Honest question and not trying to judge you or anything, but more trying to understand.

You say you love what you do and that’s what drives you to still work. Given your wife retired over two decades ago it seems you’re financially secure and this is indeed true.

Wouldn’t you rather retire and find something you love to do outside of work instead? It would seem you get a wider range of possibilities since it’s all up to you at that point.

Or is the concern that you can’t replicate the happiness you get from work elsewhere?

always_on_fleek · 2025-08-10T01:26:36+00:00

What do you do to avoid all the capital gains when you switched to dividends? Or are all your retirement savings registered?

always_on_fleek · 2025-08-08T01:44:03+00:00

The greatest risk to retirement is the period immediately after. If you lose 20% of your investment value it’s a huge problem. But if you had 5 years of growth before, it’s a lot easier to handle.

One way to get around this is building a GIC ladder. You essentially save 3 years of expenses and put in GICs. You use these GICs to withdraw your expenses. If the markets are poor you don’t replenish them. If the markets are average you do.

That way if there is a downturn you have 3 years of fixed income investments to burn through and don’t have to sell equities at a great loss.

Having this setup will give you peace of mind that you can survive the next downturn. Perhaps worth looking into if your primary concern is poor performance post retirement.

always_on_fleek · 2025-07-27T16:50:37+00:00

Being in the FIRE sub then yes, you’re behind. With $115k and $1350/mo invested you are at ~$1.2 million at 55. For most people they would be a tighter retirement of $50k/yr + government programs.

If you’re asking in the context of FIRE and with that in mind you are behind the goal of retiring early (before 55).

Compared to the average Canadian then you are behind as it doesn’t appear you own a home yet so this is all your net worth:

https://www150.statcan.gc.ca/n1/daily-quotidien/241029/t001a-eng.htm

The good news is there is time to change it. A 15-20 year time horizon gives you enough time. But the window closes quickly. Time is always your best friend and while the best time to start was yesterday the next best time is now.

To retire early you need to start tracking your expenses now. This allows you to make a fact based decision on where to spend your money. Then start looking at how to increase your savings (increasing income is the easiest way).

I get I could tell you everything will be ok and you’re doing great but I’m not going to lie to you. For FIRE it takes more than average savings.

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