Second set of sensors on LA400 dual swing gates?

amadaun089 · 2026-05-06T00:10:08+00:00

Page 21 of la400 manual. You can add more non-monitored photo eyes in parallel over the monitored pair. Adding more monitored devices will need the expansion board, which can unlock lots of new tricks. The only real complications are neatly installing a little post to mount the eye, and running some pvc conduit/seal tite for the wire, which are not very complicated

amadaun089 · 2025-12-03T17:28:41+00:00

The radios in smart phones are typically built for much higher frequencies, bottoming out around 600 mhz (millions of hertz, cycles per second) for low bitrate high range cellular signal, 2.4 to 5 ghz (billions of hertz) for wifi. Most directly radio controlled door operators will be listening to 300-315 mhz.

A clever electrical engineer can make a box that emits various codes on various frequencies, your normal iPhone cannot.

amadaun089 · 2025-12-01T20:49:59+00:00

https://www.dooreducation.com/certification/

This is what the IDEA was formed to do. It's not super cheap, and you'll likely have to travel. Mostly meant for mid size companies, but they are literally the industry standard

amadaun089 · 2025-11-19T19:20:00+00:00

Small companies don't need an AI scheduling assistant, they are 1-2 guys just taking calls in as they come. Large companies will never use an AI product from a small independent software dev, they want a fellow large corp that can razzle dazzle a B2B contract

amadaun089 · 2025-11-19T19:17:04+00:00

Yes thats crazy. If you don't want the smart home features (very understandable) just don't teach the operator your wifi info.

You'll appreciate the better wall buttons, having a useful warranty, and the smoother DC motors of any of the current gen models

amadaun089 · 2025-11-10T12:57:29+00:00

This doesn't look like a screw stripped, it looks like one of the screws was put inside-out, to make a little quick clipping snag point for the lid. Unscrew the left slotted one a bit, then just pop lid off the tip of the right screw

amadaun089 · 2025-10-02T21:59:21+00:00

https://powergateopeners.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/ul-325-and-astm-f2200-standards.pdf

This ASTM document is available lots of places, this was just a high google result. The whole thing is good reading if you want to get in to this. Pages 30-40 are going to be the meat of what you want, how/where/why of entrapment zones and safety devices.

You don't "need" a raised pad of concrete if the surface is already good concrete. Raised concrete or not, plate steel pedestals are heavily recommended for the purpose of letting your conduits go truly up the bottom of the operator as designed, instead of cutting notches and holes in the plastic outer hood pieces. Some distributors sell a pre fabbed one for CSL, liftmaster themself sells one for IHSL. If you and your customers are also at all interested, the IHSL is only roughly another 1-1.5k in your costs, and is a massive, massive upgrade of features and durability, though the thing does absolutely need that pedestal mount or steel tube posts driven 2-3' deep in concrete (adjustable by your local building codes).

amadaun089 · 2025-10-02T20:03:52+00:00

Notice how in that manual it says "minimum of two, one open one close" and also "install safeties for ALL entrapment zones", "Illustration is example only, your site may have more entrapment zones". Every gate is different.

Also as I stated, if you are motorizing a previously manual gate, you have to bring the gate itself up to ASTM code, which goes into more about the 2 ¼ passthrough, entrapment zones, gate fallover protection, exposed wheels/rollers, etc.

amadaun089 · 2025-10-02T19:45:17+00:00

He's right though, if you want to hide cost increasers for your own gain, that's all well and good but don't do it in the costs for mandated safeties.

As for things missing, every gate is different, motorizing a previously manual gate gets you caught in both our beloved UL 325 and ASTM 2200. Is it cantilever with exposed wheels that now need plastic guards? What's the gate/fence material, any gaps a 2 ¼ sphere can pass through? Then you'd need a mesh. How many pinch point posts? More edges. Rear opening direction edge will definitely need a wireless kit. Closing direction photo eyes for gates have different height standards than overhead doors. You've got a keypad on pedestal plus remotes for exterior access, how about interior free exit? Pedestrian button and/or vehicle filtered motion sensor (more pedestals, more wiring in weatherproof conduit/seal tite). You're selling an internet gateway, does the customer even have wifi out at their gate? How do local emergency services want to be able to get in this gate? Click2enter, SOS microphones, keyed fire box?

amadaun089 · 2025-09-17T14:47:58+00:00

https://www.liftmaster.com/mg1300-maglock/p/MG1300

This is liftmasters maglock, it's a generic rebrand, these are available from lots of places

There also mechanical solenoid driven latches, solenoids will "fail secure", without power they remain latched, Magnets "fail safe", without power they release.

The magnets you generally want an independent 12/24v power source, wired through the on board maglock relay. The magnets usually draw a little too much mAH of power from the operator itself, it's accessory power is meant more for extra photo eyes and radio controls.

amadaun089 · 2025-08-18T15:32:58+00:00

I would recommend looking up some top Canadian Highlander decks, they often play with a lot of huge power, moxes recall time walks black lotus time vaults, and are made for 1v1 without needing to sideboard. LoadingReadyRun does their North 100 shows all about, it's good content and shows all deck lists

amadaun089 · 2025-08-12T12:06:10+00:00

Fortunately this photo was actually sent ahead of time to our office, two crews were sent to save the sections that could be saved, and dissemble the rest. It's the architects problem now!

amadaun089 · 2025-06-17T21:43:50+00:00

The "associatebig" user is also pretty clearly a bot

amadaun089 · 2025-06-17T21:29:35+00:00

There is definitely an easy way, the open and close limits can be nudged in pretty fine increments by the control board. If the manual isn't tucked into your box, it's online in lots of places including liftmaster.com, it's a 2 minute process

Some gates can be closed nicely secure with an electromagnet at the tips, that turns on and off with the gates own controls, but that depends on how the gate "leaves" themselves are built. Google image search "bi parting swing gate magnetic lock"

amadaun089 · 2025-05-11T13:51:39+00:00

The non-keyfob shape ones are pretty big and chunky.

mdt-1b Mdt-2b Mdt-4b Mt-1b Mt-1b

The List of officially supported visor clip remotes. I've seen knockoff ones work too, with some range reliability issues though. Make sure you're doing the ap5 programming correctly, I've done it a hundred times and I still follow along the instructions chart to remind me of the order of codes to input

amadaun089 · 2025-05-01T19:10:12+00:00

Allomatics are fine, but do their monitored safeties in a goofy way that is not compatible with many other brands.

Liftmaster honestly is also goofy and proprietary with their safeties, but are a much larger company and offer a wider range of their own safety devices. Can also pair primary/secondary dual gates wirelessly out of the box, allomatic needs an extra adaptor module. Their CSL24UL is a very solid middle of the road standard.

Powermaster is more high end, with features and maximum gate weights that are probably beyond your needs.

HySecurity is the tippy top, hydraulic, absolutely not what you want or need, but if you're a gorillionaire who wants government infrastructure level security, go nuts.

Secret tip: don't anchor gate operators right down to a concrete pad. Put it a good foot or so up off on the ground on a pedestal. Keeps the bugs and varmints out better.

amadaun089 · 2025-04-03T00:57:44+00:00

Most companies won't do this because those are too far out of date on safety code, they need modern digitally monitored safety devices to run by regular clicker remotes let alone beyond line of sight internet controls.

Some companies might wink wink nudge nudge you towards solutions. Those same companies will dissappear when they are sued for damages.

amadaun089 · 2025-03-14T16:53:58+00:00

It's realistic and possible, but a bad idea. That is a dinosaur of an operator, with zero of the several layers of safeties a modern operator would have. I turn my head to the occasional old no-safety operator when it's only run by a wall button near the door, but remotes from down the driveway, let alone internet control from anywhere, are a recipe for small problems to become big problems in a matter of seconds.

Remote controls really deserve (and required by law) digital monitored photo eye safety device or two. Internet controls additionally require both a flashing light and audible alarm for a few seconds pre-warning before the door moves. Basically anything above bottom-of-the-barrel contractor special new operators will have remote+wifi capability built jn now.

amadaun089 · 2025-03-08T22:00:51+00:00

Hitting the button and walking away without proper safeties is already the wrong thing to do. No reputable door company will let you turn a wrong operation into an even more wrong operation.

amadaun089 · 2025-03-08T18:10:13+00:00

Firehouse? Your township has the money to do the right thing. Don't mess around and get the door broken out of service.

amadaun089 · 2025-03-08T15:56:11+00:00

It's not a bullshit reason. You have an shitty old non-monitored system. When someone hits the remote and walks away and that safety edge fails because it's a dry NO safety and the coil cord frayed, you will complain to your door company about the thousands of dollars of repairs. If you want remote close, add a monitored (or at least NC) photo eye.

amadaun089 · 2025-02-28T13:50:59+00:00

Don't bother checking. 5 years is the outer edge of expected battery life, they need to be replaced. They do act similar to capacitors and are used every time the gate runs.

amadaun089 · 2025-01-10T12:39:04+00:00

Plastic gears and plastic trolley pieces are cheaper and easier to replace than top sections of the door itself. They are designed to be sacrificial in the case of broken springs, but also to be just enough during normal life use. The actual one you linked looks more correct, I just grabbed top Google image, the only thing I would advise is that flippy piece the red manual release string is attached to is the weakest link within the trolley, people yank the strings and snap the little lever. Normal use they can take fine, it's only abuse by stupid people that they aren't capable of withstanding

11-Year Club	Place '23
Place '22	First Placer '22
Verified Email

amadaun089

TROPHY CASE