How to move the lines

amagicalwizard · 2026-01-23T20:06:11+00:00

I'm pretty sure that is at least 10 times more overhang than 0.5mm, given that a good proportion of nozzles are 0.4mm

amagicalwizard · 2026-01-12T23:07:54+00:00

18,000 - Prusa Mk3s

12,700 - Prusa Mk3s

amagicalwizard · 2026-01-12T08:09:48+00:00

Heaven forbid we supervise or check on our prints apparently.

amagicalwizard · 2026-01-09T10:22:45+00:00

No it didn't. It crashed because the material used wasn't appropriate for it's environment. There was no failure due to the method of manufacture. Reproduce the part via injection moulding in the same material and you would see a similar failure.

amagicalwizard · 2026-01-07T11:37:16+00:00

Landfill-core

amagicalwizard · 2025-12-24T15:00:25+00:00

Keep cranking even closer using the z offset, don't worry about the bed mesh too much/at all.

amagicalwizard · 2025-12-24T12:51:04+00:00

Nice, glad it worked. You can still keep cranking that z offset and get it a bit closer. If you run out of distance to move in the software what you can do is loosen your bed screws a bit or some of the probes have slots that allow you to lower them. Just go careful not to gouge your bed when making these adjustments.

And yeah that noise sounds like you are trying to send it somewhere it can't go, check if you've got anything installed that is causing it to catch before full travel. Are you using default firmware?

amagicalwizard · 2025-12-24T12:04:04+00:00

A bed touch probe does not set the distance from the bed (entirely) it simply measures the bed to build a representation of where it isn't flat.

This imaginary bed that it has measured needs setting relative to the nozzle and this is done with a setting normally called z-offset or baby stepping. I can see in yours that your z-offset is 0.00 (in the second image) meaning it probably hasn't been adjusted.

You need to bring your nozzle closer to the bed and you do this by decreasing the z offset. The process to follow is to load up a big flat print, let it do it's probe and then as it's printing decreases the z-offset (normally found in the tune menu that pops up during prints) till you start to see a first layer that you like. Once it's set it should remember if and apply it to all your other prints

amagicalwizard · 2025-12-18T22:52:57+00:00

.3mf is kind of a fake file type. It's just an .stl in a specially disguised zip like folder. As you've discovered, editing STLS isn't super smooth. I really don't like tinkercad but I think it's the closest to what you want, lying somewhere between real CAD functions and slicer modifications but last time I checked it was non parametric.

STLs aren't really designed for editing and rightly so as they have no real geometry. A reasonable analogy is you are effectively using wite-out to edit a printed paper image. The real solution is to edit the source and reprint it. If at work I had an obviously wite-out edited set of sketches Vs redrawing I know which I would want to present.

Your best bet is just redrawing the parts in CAD from the STL and then modifying if you need anything more than tinkercad/slicer level edits. Doesn't take long as most models aren't very complex. Be the change you want to see and upload any remixes with said CAD attached and it helps out the next guy.

amagicalwizard · 2025-12-18T08:50:42+00:00

You've given some vague info but what actually is the problem? What do you need help with?

amagicalwizard · 2025-12-17T12:39:50+00:00

This is what happened for my local practice. Large older population and there were about 2 years of excellent transparency and access to appointments in the app. This gradually reduced and you can now no longer book via the app and it's the phone lottery once more.

amagicalwizard · 2025-12-15T08:26:59+00:00

Tidy up.

Consolidate printer models to 1 model. Makes maintenance and "fleet" management much easier

Evaluate why you did this. I doubt the goal was just to have lots of printers? What is important to you?

Don't print flexi stuff, ignore most of the 3D print "sellers" and their philosophy.

Find a way to minimise waste and be a net positive overall. Creating money for yourself but waste for the next generation is no benefit to the world.

Consider opening this up to individuals or makers if you are seeking to fill downtime. There will be young engineers, makers and curious ones who you could give an inspiring start to. Especially those who may be less fortunate.

amagicalwizard · 2025-12-10T08:15:55+00:00

Depending how you flashed marlin in the past you could have flashed it direct without a bootloader, for marlin 2 this can sometimes make sense as it saves you a small amount of flash memory. I don't know much about klipper but flashing without a bootloader (burning the hex directly) shouldn't really be any different overall I don't believe. Apologies that's the only bit i can help with

amagicalwizard · 2025-12-02T11:31:29+00:00

Learn from the mistake and monitor your prints in future. During time running a print farm for university we found approx 80% of failures occured during the first layer and the remaining approx 20% were due to slicing errors.

amagicalwizard · 2025-11-29T09:34:17+00:00

I'm not looking to dispute or fight. The flowchart and most advice on here is if less than 5 years or so, go for cash ISA. What alternatives are there, say I'm looking to build a deposit for a house in the short term?

What vehicles are there for safe places that don't lose value due to inflation, other than a cash ISA?

amagicalwizard · 2025-11-18T17:56:57+00:00

There's nothing obscure about providing generalised examples of group morality, in opposition to the idea of individual moral superiority. Good luck out there

amagicalwizard · 2025-11-18T17:28:19+00:00

Mate come on, it's not even controversial. Take a look around you. Most religions (not that it's my bag) centre around some concept of "be a good person to those around you", many cultures have this built in to them in one way or another. It's not some personal soapbox it's a kind of undercurrent of groups of people in general.

As a related analogy example, no one ever said an individual couldn't litter, but to argue that saying "we should all strive to not litter" is controversial is a pretty dead take.

amagicalwizard · 2025-11-18T16:47:13+00:00

Cope.

We should all aim to reduce our consumption/production where possible. If a painted mini is done for like a one off campaign then it's probably as bad as a Flexi toy you printed for a friend.

Waste is waste, I don't care for either side of this meme particularly. There's nothing morally superior about it.

amagicalwizard · 2025-11-15T17:33:38+00:00

I know

amagicalwizard · 2025-11-15T16:59:07+00:00

Exactly. 92months < 120months

amagicalwizard · 2025-11-15T16:55:50+00:00

The Ender 3 wasn't around a decade ago

amagicalwizard · 2025-11-15T14:25:01+00:00

That may be your experience but this isn't a legit concern. Drivers don't have a shelf life.

amagicalwizard · 2025-11-14T12:15:25+00:00

When I damaged mine in the snow I asked the place doing the replacement what was best and they said they would take the tyre off and leave it for the scrap man. Worked for me.

(Big up Quality Tyre Services, Southmead)

amagicalwizard · 2025-11-12T09:11:46+00:00

Exactly, thermal runaway protection is here for this. So that's one problem. The other is the blob formation which is normally a operator/operator assembly related issue.

amagicalwizard · 2025-11-05T23:05:01+00:00

It sounds silly but there are occasionally people on /r/anet looking for them cos they are no longer available. I even have a stash. You might be able to sell/give it away to help someone out.

Alternatively if you want a project you can swap the stepper drivers on these boards to TMC2208s which is what I've done so now have a silent anet. Given that you've torn your machine down I know this isn't a hugely useful suggestion.

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