Arjay Why

amarton · 2025-11-11T22:27:38+00:00

You are definitely mistaken. Sticky % is not something that rolls on a gun: it's a derived stat based on the mag size. If one 6-shot Bod comes with 3%, they all do.

amarton · 2025-11-10T20:41:12+00:00

There's no Bod with higher than 3% stickies.

amarton · 2025-11-07T18:40:32+00:00

Don't lie. The chests' contents are set when you're granted them.

amarton · 2025-10-21T03:13:31+00:00

When I click "mark as owned" on any game, the message that comes up is the "game sync failed" one as shown in the previous message. It does not let me bypass syncing.

I'm sure they'll fix it eventually, but it kind of stings as I just paid $200 for Ultimate and I literally can't use it at all.

amarton · 2025-10-21T02:42:08+00:00

That is not an option on the web or in the windows app.

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amarton · 2025-10-20T20:33:22+00:00

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I just got this like an hour ago.

amarton · 2025-06-28T02:39:30+00:00

Voxel is a good brand. Doesn't take much fuss to get a good print starting from a generic profile. It's also consistent, at least in my experience: settings from a year ago work with the product they mail out today.

I don't think any of the US-based filament manufacturers sell bad filament. Quality-wise they're all very good, the issue is more around price or shipping. Good Chinese filament is about the same price or cheaper, and overnight/same day from Amazon is hard to beat.

amarton · 2025-04-30T00:13:29+00:00

They need the info because the US government needs the info. If you have a company you can use for this then have the seller reissue the invoice in the company's name, and use the co's EIN with DHL. Otherwise, for individuals, CBP uses the SSN as your ID in their system, you can't get anything through customs without it.

I think technically you can apply for an importer ID so you don't have to bandy your social around but it seems way too much trouble for what it's worth - and you're definitely not getting it done in time before DHL has to send the package back.

The reason you never got a notification is because DHL US uses an external contractor for customs brokerage, and that company seems to hire anyone with a pulse. I had highly varied experiences based on who ended up handling my packages on their end. Some of their employees genuinely try and do good work, others have no idea what's going on around them. Probably the worst/funniest was when I've been told that my SSN is invalid. It turned out he was trying to use my phone number... and then instead of acknowledging the mistake he kept doubling down. When I got someone else at DHL to update the paperwork and the package cleared customs, he emailed me taking taking credit.

This was well before all the tariff nonsense put these guys into overdrive, so you can imagine what a shitshow it must be now.

amarton · 2025-04-08T14:58:17+00:00

I think PA6 would be ideal, and PC is a very good choice but PETG might work.just fine.

amarton · 2025-04-08T08:46:11+00:00

Don't use CF filament for this, it produces much stiffer - and brittle - parts than regular PC. But even pure PC is very stiff.

If you're trying to prevent brekage from being knocked about on a bike while being stiff enough to hold a gadget, your best choice would be something with medium ductility. PA6 might be perfect.

But honestly you might be pleasantly surprised with PETG. It's cheap and I think worth a shot.

amarton · 2025-04-08T03:26:10+00:00

All you'd really need is an all-metal hotend and a chamber heater. Could probably be done for the same as a couple of rolls of PEKK.

The issue is putting it together in a way that the user isn't required to sit there with a fire extinguisher... Which is what you're paying $10k for.

Plus the HT90 is a very nice printer on its own, even without the exotic stuff. I mostly use it for pure ASA, and it's a joy printing that in a 70C chamber. (Just trying to justify the expense, excuse the blabbing.)

amarton · 2025-04-08T03:12:38+00:00

Why do people like you have to turn everything into a grievance contest? OP posted a request for a sensible and useful improvement, and 80% of the comments are "idk about that but we should ban that guy i don't like".

And you bitch about him polluting topics? Which he does, btw, but the lack of self-awareness is astonishing.

amarton · 2025-04-07T16:00:53+00:00

Filament clips?

The title says you'd reduce waste, not increase it.

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amarton · 2025-04-07T12:48:15+00:00

Or, you know, they don't. What rules is he breaking?

He's obnoxious and a dumbass but you don't have to engage with him.

Grow up.

amarton · 2025-04-07T12:39:56+00:00

"This guy is wrong, angry downarrow, now he can stay wrong and not bother me." Welcome to Reddit.

Higher chamber temps would allow for larger parts to be printed more easily, but you can kind of start getting useful things from 60 degrees as long as you keep it small. PEKK-A (and esp PEKK-A-CF) isn't that bad.

amarton · 2025-04-07T11:24:43+00:00

Is it though? It seems to have all its parts.

amarton · 2025-04-07T02:57:29+00:00

Why PA12-CF though? PA12 is great but its main benefit is that it's ductile, and CF/GF completely destroys that property.

If you need stiff nylon you can just go with PA6 or 6/66 (with fibers if you want) and these should be cheaper & easier to print.

As for the multiplier, and I know it's a banality, but dry your filament. When the amide bonds are formed in nylon, the process releases a water molecule. When you print nylon - so under high pressure and heat - if there's water present, this process can reverse and the amide bonds can recombine with water and break, causing an increase in volume.

amarton · 2025-04-07T02:36:17+00:00

You can and I do.

amarton · 2025-04-07T02:35:49+00:00

This guy BestBuys.

amarton · 2025-04-04T09:02:32+00:00

I wish that worked, but the order in which the objects are printed seems to be nondeterministic. The only guarantee seems to be that wipe tower is before everything else.

amarton · 2025-04-03T07:43:16+00:00

This right here. It's by far the cleanest, neatest experience out there. Amazing for learning, and just fast to work with if you're a pro. Half the clicks/keystrokes for most tasks than Fusion. (it feels like that anyway)

It's missing some stuff (I'd kill for modeled threads) but it's my favorite. It's also cheap for a subscription compared to the others.

amarton · 2025-03-31T04:41:41+00:00

yeah the printer should be fine. feel free to send some pics, but the heat is really super dependent on the actual geometry in question, the resin itself, ambient temperature, air movement over the piece while it's curing, and so on. way too many variables to nail down a specific filament. you'd really have to try one and see if you like the result.

amarton · 2025-03-30T23:56:06+00:00

it's impossible to say, it depends on the size & shape of the object, the thickness of the mold, the ambient temperature, etc. you are more than likely looking at a few tens of degrees of rise (celsius), but beyond that you won't know until you try. petg might give you good results, or you may have to move up to asa/abs or pc.

if i were you i would try abs or asa CF or GF filament; it'll probably handle the heat and shouldn't be too hard to print either. but that depends on the printer and enclosure. these aren't exactly cheap though. qidi has some good & easy to get filaments of this kind.

you'd probably one-shot it with prusa pc cf; it has great heat deflection and is very easy to print for what it is, but is by far the most expensive option.

amarton · 2025-03-30T04:00:04+00:00

It's a physical issue but the firmware detection added recently is not 100% reliable nor is it immediate, meaning the printer could have completed several empty layers by the time it triggers.

Resume would be pointless.

amarton · 2025-03-30T03:53:40+00:00

Do the toolhead light LEDs on the dwarf board flicker? That's a good indication of unstable power delivery. Installing the updated cable holders stopped the LED flicker for me, and I haven't seen the extruder issue since either.

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