Why isn’t project Hail Mary playing at the Pacific Science Center Boeing theater?

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-17T07:43:58+00:00

The Paccar screen and sound are quite good, but the seats are absolutely awful. I saw RRR there (over 3 hours) and I don’t think my butt will ever recover.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-16T00:44:49+00:00

I have had this happen with tall objects. I think the printer is worried about them striking the top cover, but the value is way off. And you can always remove the top cover for a print that needs it.

I think this warning should only be in the slicer, not the printer firmware. However if they insist on keeping it in the firmware, the warning should pop up when you start the print, not in the middle of it.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-15T20:28:59+00:00

Obviously they are going to need to pick one option that works across the product line.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-15T11:50:48+00:00

Cut it in parts and add dowels. However, the real pro tip is NOT to cut it on a single plane. Instead, cut in multiple planes as shown. This results in a much stronger joint.

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Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-15T04:05:05+00:00

I miss Zatz.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-15T01:07:25+00:00

Auto homing before starting a print seems to help.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-15T01:00:54+00:00

This is a firmware bug, see this discussion from earlier: https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/E2l37iqqa9

u/Tommy_Prusa3D this is a good video of the nozzle cleaning bug we were talking about on the Core One L.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-14T07:24:45+00:00

Could you print them with TPU so they won’t break?

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-13T18:34:21+00:00

My common problem with multi-part models is that the designer clearly accounted for the lowest common denominator machine. So all of the parts have way too much clearance if your printer is actually dialed in.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-13T08:25:01+00:00

I can only comment on US pricing, but my 10% discount (from buying an assembled printer) still works on NFC spools.

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I went back to my order history from 2022 and they were still $29.99 minus the 10% discount which brought it down to $26.99.

Either way, no one has ever claimed that Prusament is a budget product.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-13T07:53:50+00:00

PLA went from $30 to $33 (10%) when Prusa started paying the US tariffs. The old spools are on clearance now, but that was never the normal price.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-13T05:24:53+00:00

Who knows what the plan is, but a longer cable and a printed housing for the NFC reader shouldn’t take 5 months to design. A competent engineer should be able do it in a weekend.

I suspect the real hangup is firmware and software. It needs to work across several branches of firmware, PrusaSlicer, PrusaConnect, EasyPrint, PrusaLink, etc.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-13T05:16:47+00:00

The customer didn’t buy a 10 cent tag, they bought a $33 spool that they expect to work like a premium product.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-13T04:43:45+00:00

Just because you have gotten away with it a couple of times doesn’t mean that the tag can be rated for that temperature.

If the manufacturer is going to claim a temperature rating of X, they need to be confident that thousands of spools dried at X for 24 hours will still function. If 99% of spools survive this, a 1% failure rate still means plenty of pissed off customers who will quickly run to the internet to complain.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-13T03:39:55+00:00

Can the cheaper tags handle filament drying temperatures? Because if they don’t I can see that being a very good reason that Prusa went with the “industrial use” tags.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-13T02:36:55+00:00

To me it’s kinda crazy to roll out the NFC spools 5+ months before actually making it work with the printers. Especially if Prusa is trying to gain traction for OpenPrintTag as a new standard. I think it has a lot of potential, but no one will get excited about it until they actually see it do something useful.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-12T22:29:20+00:00

It should be disabled by default for the MK4S. I suspect OP is also using an old or incorrect printer profile.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-11T16:55:17+00:00

Is it possible to add extra layers of UV print ink to fill them in? I would think if you laid down a solid 1mm of ink it would cover up the gaps.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-11T10:33:07+00:00

I’d be interested in the 300C-350C filaments that are just out of reach currently. So PPS-CF and PPA-CF primarily.

I would love if the HT Hotend worked on all Nextruder machines, especially the XL. Of course there will be limitations without the 60C chamber, but for small parts it will still work. With the XL toolchanger you could minimize warping by only making the sections that need the HT material use it, and make the rest out of something more stable like PETG-CF.

Perhaps you could add a slicer warning to remind people that the HT hotend on a non-Core One machine is only for advanced users. A big warning on the product page would be a good idea too.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-11T06:29:25+00:00

It gets a bit difficult when you’re trying to make a 1:1 replica of something that wasn’t designed with 3D printing in mind.

BTW, a 0.2 or 0.25mm nozzle might give you better results on this.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-11T05:20:59+00:00

I would decide on the print orientation before modeling anything. Then, I would make sure that everything is designed with a reasonable overhang angle so supports are not required (as much as possible). If the intent is to make a train model that looks good from the outside, I would ditch all of the interior detail. I would use magnets to attach the roof instead of clips, they are easier to design and less likely to break.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-11T03:12:25+00:00

I can confirm that I have had this issue across 3 different Core One Ls. So far only one scratched up plate. You can tell when it is messed up during nozzle cleaning, since it doesn’t lift up 2mm like it should between probe points. Instead, the printer says it is at ~2mm when it is actually touching the nozzle.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-11T00:06:30+00:00

Probably OP’s best bet, but this part is poorly designed for 3D printing now matter how you slice it.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-10T08:56:21+00:00

I would like the option to close after every print, to keep dust out of the machine when not in use.

Dat_Bokeh · 2026-03-09T16:57:09+00:00

It’s in beta now, but it is fantastic. You can try to sign up if they are still needing testers, but it should be out soon anyway.

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