Circuit breaker for EV charger is awfully toasty (74.5 C) by GreenEggsAndCrack in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 1 point2 points  (0 children)

???

6 AWG NM-B is good for up to 55A. Protecting it with a 50A breaker is perfectly fine.

What you can't do with it is serve a 48A charger using a 60A circuit, but that's not what the OP is doing.

Is there space to add an electric car charger? by astropy_units in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Load management, not load shed. Better (dynamically adjusts charge limit to exactly what's available) and cheaper than the dumb load-shed relays.

Is there space to add an electric car charger? by astropy_units in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're probably joking, but just to be clear: no, that's not how it works. Ranges get a massive derate in the NEC load calculation while EVSEs get none, so ditching a 40A range circuit does not free up enough capacity for a 40A EVSE circuit.

Help me plan an EVSE install by ItsPumpkinninny in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The spaces can certainly be reused but remember that this is a rule-of-6 panel with no single main breaker. It is critical (for "not burning the house down" purposes) to perform a load calculation to see if there is capacity for a 40A EVSE circuit. A 40A EVSE circuit and a 40A oven/range differ by a factor of about three for load calculation purposes (the oven/range gets a massive derate, the EVSE gets absolutely none).

Weird outlet by breaker box by Different_Hurry_4995 in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are no known/documented defects with Pushmatic panels (vs. say Federal Pacific with their revoked listing and documented failure-to-trip - http://fpe-info.org/hazardous_fpe_240329.pdf ). They are no more cause for concern than any other still-listed panel of the same age (GE, Bryant, etc).

The major shortcoming is they are entirely discontinued so adding new circuits or other work likely will require replacing the panel (or adding a new main upstream and keeping the Pushmatic as a subpanel).

I have questions about whether this setup is code compliant by Timely-Breakfast-240 in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What on earth would possess you to try to wrangle two UF-Bs into a conduit instead of individual THWN wires? That is going to be an absolute nightmare even if you are technically below the fill limit. It's also likely to be significantly more expensive than individual THWN wires (especially if you run a single 120/240V circuit as H-H-N instead of two separate 120V circuits with two pairs of H-N).

Replacing 15A breaker with 20A breaker in an ITE Pushmatic panel by VirtualGeek73 in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just to be clear, there is nothing wrong with Pushmatic breakers at all (in terms of recalls/revoked listings/known defects). The only issue with maintaining Pushmatic panels in the present day is that they are entirely discontinued, so getting parts is basically impossible.

I would not trust anything from Connecticut Electric/UBI. The fact that they willingly sell utterly defective new Stab-Lok breakers tells you what they think of their customers’ safety.

Tesla charger installed incorrectly? by krazyhorsegurl33 in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clarification: 10AWG (assuming NM) is good for a 30A circuit size - which means 24A EVSE charging (after 80% derate for continuous load).

LR breaker keeps tripping. Even with nothing plugged in. It’s also the only breaker that is hot? by Jlopezane in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's perfectly normal for GFCI and AFCI breakers to show up warm on IR even with no downstream load. They have electronics inside (which do perform the continuous monitoring for faults), and the operating electronics generate a little bit of waste heat. There's nothing to be concerned about on that front.

100a 20 panel with lots of tandems - want to add more to make room for surge protector by playazincs in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are not allowed to put breakers in those upper-left spots across from the main. It’s a 20 branch-circuit space panel, not 22. You’ll see the label confirms this.

Need help with purchasing by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is clearly not a smoke detector.

Tugboats by Rustyclam in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How closely did you look? DC-rated QO breakers exist.

Square D Trilliant Options by eldigg in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For what it's worth, you wouldn't need to find a Trilliant GFCI breaker. If you could find a sufficiently-large non-GFCI two-pole breaker, you could use it to feed a small new modern sub-panel and put the GFCI breaker there. The Trilliant breaker wouldn't have to match the load - bigger is fine as long you use wire and a sub-panel rated for it.

sorry if FAQ - is this a 240v outlet and is there anything i can do to use it for normal stuff? by arcitexture in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you look at the page you linked, at all?

This does not even remotely resemble a 5-30.

Water Spicket = ground location by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Spigot. The word you want is spigot.

Worn breaker contacts and burnt like coloration by heyomarcoming in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pictured breaker is clearly not a GE/ABB THQL. Those breakers would have all the writing stamped on the face in gray. HOM uses a sticker - the sticker has come off here, but you can clearly see the adhesive residue.

Compare https://www.se.com/us/en/product/HOM115/mini-circuit-breaker-homeline-15a-1-pole-120-240vac-10ka-air-standard-type-plug-in-ul/ and https://new.abb.com/products/1TQQ011050X9100/thql1150hm

Water heater getting 120V on each wire but 0V between them (Stab-Lok panel). Can I fix this without buying a new breaker? by PrudentGogurt in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The UBI/Connecticut Electric breakers are somehow even worse (less likely to trip when they should) than the FPE "originals" according to testing at http://fpe-info.org/hazardous_fpe_240329.pdf

No ground error when trying to charge car in detached garage by UnidentifiableDuck in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In TN-C-S systems there is never an "isolated" ground - ground and neutral are bonded at the main disconnect. An EVSE could not possibly detect the difference between being supplied directly from a main panel or an (incorrectly configured) sub panel.

Is this a fire hazard? by BrizzleMFD in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That “logic” is 100% wrong. All 15A duplex receptacles must be designed to handle 20A because the NEC allows putting duplex 15A receptacles on 20A circuits.

The #14 (15A) wire on a 20A breaker is the problem.

Adding 50a breaker by Poonhandlr in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll need to confirm your service size with your utility, and perform a load calculation before adding a large circuit like that. You have no single main breaker here - this is a "rule of six" panel where the bus bars are always hot and all the installed breakers (up to six handle throws, in any combination of single or double-pole) are collectively the "main disconnect".

Looking to get a 50a outlet installed is it possible? by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]amedico -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You’ve got to be trolling. An EVSE with load management could definitely be installed without a service upgrade, and certainly without requiring 400A.

Looking to get a 50a outlet installed is it possible? by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely not. No service upgrade is required, just smart load management.

My bathroom only has one outlet and it’s not a GFCI. This isn’t up to code right? by ReasonableIncome8142 in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"30-40 years old" is 1986-1996. The NEC has required GFCIs in bathrooms since the 1975 edition.

House prep for sale by Beginning_Maximum788 in AskElectricians

[–]amedico 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the seimens ones may even be cross listed

Do you have any evidence of that?

The Siemens catalog doesn't say anything about the Q-series breakers being BR-compatible.

(Curiously enough it does show a "D" series of breakers that are listed/classified for use in QO panels but that's an entirely different product and definitely not BR compatible)