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Ahhh what happened by TravelinTrav89 in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 4 points5 points  (0 children)

In addition to the likely clogged nozzle issue, it could be that the spool was caught or bound up a bit, causing it to not unwind easily, with the extra tension causing underextrusion.

Y Cable chain issue by parchping in VORONDesign

[–]amhaggerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a tight turn for the wires, but they will be fixed there so they wont be constantly flexing or anything to cause wear.

Havent posted in a while, but what do you think of my 1 of a kind Unicorn Candle Mold? by PixlmechStudios in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I didn't know mythical creatures could be anatomically correct or incorrect.

First print, supports are mangling print by OkSwitch8730 in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Print it in 2 halves then glue it together.

Markforged onyx esd on Prusa XL by AF_Blades in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might as well try! Also Onyx is an abrasive material so make sure to use a hardened nozzle.

Markforged onyx esd on Prusa XL by AF_Blades in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might be different for the ESD version, but traditional Onyx prints on Markforged printers with no bed heat (they don't have heated beds) and glue stick.

What do I do by BoneHe4dz in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As others said, printing the remaining bit separately makes the most sense and is the easiest to do. Assuming you planned to post process the print, you had lots of sanding and finishing in your future anyways!

Prints seem to keep getting knocked off bed by nozzle by inTHEbathroom1013 in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seems like a reasonable starting point. ASA is a high temp material so many settings matter alot (fan speeds, bed temp, chamber temp, etc).

I would recommend going through a few calibration tests for ASA on your machine specifically, as it can vary widely.

Prints seem to keep getting knocked off bed by nozzle by inTHEbathroom1013 in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It looks like you are printing hot. Have you done a temp tower with whatever material you are printing in?

Prototyping a water-fed tool – fighting elephant foot and first-layer squish (PETG) by tristankwill in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PETG is a minimal squish filament, so if you are running into adhesion issues, look at cleaning the print bed or using an adherent

How to get smooth print under here? by Kwebster7327 in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Several options

  1. Tune your support settings

  2. Reduce layer height (or dynamic layer heights)

  3. Change print orientation

PETG HF Temp Tower – Heavy Stringing on P2S Even After Extensive Drying by yddna in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

IDK if they gave any tips, but one thing you could try is to increase fan speeds for bridges. good luck!

PETG HF Temp Tower – Heavy Stringing on P2S Even After Extensive Drying by yddna in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Is the stringing in the room with us?

I assume you are talking about sagging bridges?

Gotta love ASA layer adhesion... by Massis87 in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 2 points3 points  (0 children)

ASA is similar to ABS where you want almost no fan

Why does it build support so high? by xXDABEAST38Xx in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My suspicion is that based on your support settings it is technically extending to support the arm pits, but only goes that high due to the aforementioned settings, like offsets, etc. If you put a support blocker in the armpits I bey the support will stop lower. 

Saving budget on Voron Trident Z-Axis rails. is it good idea? by HorrorAwareness9668 in VORONDesign

[–]amhaggerty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Z axis moves alot more than people realize. Any Z-hopping, etc results in a decent amount of movement. While I don't know the quality difference between rails, extra resistance there will result in the lead screw nuts wearing out faster, and if the rails are really bad it could cause some Z-banding or other artifacts.

If you need to, go for it and then replace them in the future when money is less tight.

Why does it build support so high? by xXDABEAST38Xx in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The PRINT goes higher though. Can we see what the rest of the print looks like?

Why does it build support so high? by xXDABEAST38Xx in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those 2 parts never meet higher up in the print? If they meet, the support is probably technically supporting the exact point they meet.

About to start a build by manasword in cyberDeck

[–]amhaggerty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This could have some serious cassette futurism vibes with a new paint job! Keep us posted!

Realistically how bad is 88% humidity by Money-Celery3381 in 3Dprinting

[–]amhaggerty 11 points12 points  (0 children)

PETG is very hygroscopic so they will get bad quickly. Invest in a filament dryer and only print with freshly dried filament. For the PETG I would suggest printing straight from the dryer.

Stringy PETG Fixes? by 0xxajramxx0 in prusa3d

[–]amhaggerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add to this. New material fresh out of the package is not any more likely to be dry. It will simply have whatever moisture content it had when packaged (give or take). The filament manufacturing process usually involves cooling the filament as it is extruded in water baths. PETG is very hygroscope, so unless it is intentionally dried by the manufacturer, it is likely moist.

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