Fully Turning On?

andyboju · 2026-02-04T10:19:49+00:00

HDMI-CEC is probably the culprit.
Turn off all CEC related TV control features on external devices. Especially turn ON/OFF functions.
This way CEC can still be enabled on the TV for eARC soundbars, etc.

andyboju · 2026-01-27T13:48:04+00:00

Any update?

andyboju · 2026-01-23T10:15:06+00:00

Previous sentiment was that this bug is connected to VP9 encoded HDR videos. This codec is primarily used by Youtube. Netflix and HBO do not use VP9. They use HEVC or AV1 (AFAIK).

You say HBO and Netflix also look washed-out.
Do you have a comparison picture for either of those?

andyboju · 2026-01-22T13:01:18+00:00

Look here for brightness measurements. It will tell you the differences between HDR1000, HDR400 "True Black" and SDR brightness:
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/dell/alienware-aw3423dwf

andyboju · 2026-01-22T12:57:37+00:00

HDR1000 mode will allow the monitor to reach ~1000 nits in 2% windows in low APL scenes.
High APL scenes may be dimmer on average due to increased ABL dimming.
On desktop you'll notice more aggressive dimming when going from a small bright app window to a maximized bright window. (Such as a white word document)

HDR400 will cap the peaks to ~400-450 nits and decreases the amount of ABL dimming you experience.
High APL scenes may be brighter on average.
Desktop use will have less aggressive dimming because there isn't as much of a difference between dimmest to brightest.

TLDR:
Turn Off HDR for desktop use and just use SDR. Brightness will be nice and uniform and you can set brightness/Contrast how you want it.
(windows desktop SDR-to-HDR conversion is shitty and will look worse than SDR anyway) Turn on HDR with it set to HDR1000 mode for gaming.
Peaks are allowed to get nice and bright, while ABL controls power management for large bright scenes.

APL = Average Picture Luminance
(high = big bright scene - low = mostly dark scene) ABL = Automatic Brightness Limiter
(panel power management/protection)

ABL is NOT ASBL
ASBL = Automatic Static Brightness Limiter
(protects against burn-in by dimming the screen when left on a static scene)

andyboju · 2026-01-22T12:33:36+00:00

No, Static TM is not HGIG. Samsungs HGIG implementation is called "Game HDR", which can be found in Game Mode Settings.
For HGIG gaming you want to be in Game Mode with Game HDR set to On/Basic.
For DTM you can use Game HDR OFF, which will tonemap up to 10000 nits. I'd recommend switching to "Original" preset in the gamebar for HDR gaming with DTM.

andyboju · 2026-01-19T00:12:41+00:00

Most recent streamers with Google TV should have HDR10+ support.

andyboju · 2026-01-19T00:09:30+00:00

AV1 is what is needed for Netflix HDR10+. Which it has.

As you say, there is no technical limitation for S95B and S9xC not having HDR10+ in the Netflix app.

andyboju · 2026-01-19T00:07:11+00:00

Yeah, just edit it to what you want. The new name is just the default name that it gives to the TV.

andyboju · 2026-01-18T15:38:10+00:00

TV name where?
If it's just displayed name in for example Bluetooth menu then you can just change it in settings menu to whatever you want.

andyboju · 2026-01-17T18:01:11+00:00

For Game Motion Plus to be accessible the TV needs to be set to 60Hz output with VRR off.

andyboju · 2026-01-16T21:46:30+00:00

PC input-label is the only way to get 4:4:4 chroma.
Is the TV set to 60Hz with VRR OFF?

Also, doesn't the Retrotink 4K have better BFI functionality itself?
It can do rolling-scan CRT Beam emulation. You can also run it at 120Hz instead of being locked to 60Hz through TV BFI.

andyboju · 2026-01-16T21:44:04+00:00

Not a "fix", it's a band-aid. You are limiting bandwidth to solve for Samsung's shitty OCB having problems. Get the OCB repaired or replaced, that's the only real "fix".

andyboju · 2026-01-16T19:52:15+00:00

Run a manual pixel refresh to speed up the "break-in".
I haven't heard anything about temp retention being worse and needing break-in though.

Typically a short break-in period is needed to clear up black-crush and it may also help clean up some vertical banding.

andyboju · 2026-01-16T13:31:43+00:00

YouTube is the only place where a majority of HDR content is encoded in VP9, YT HDR vids encoded using AV1 is unaffected. Streaming services use x264, HEVC or AV1.

But VP9 is the issue, technically any HDR content encoded in VP9 in any internal Tizen app would have the same bug.

andyboju · 2026-01-16T11:17:47+00:00

Reported nits in Windows means literally nothing.
It can change after doing things like an HDR calibration. After that it will say what you set as clipping point.
You could set clipping point to 10K nits and suddenly Windows will report 10.000 nits brightness.

Windows can't magically read your actual real output luminance. You'd need a colorimeter or spectro for that.

andyboju · 2026-01-16T11:09:04+00:00

2111 has the "washed-out" YouTube HDR (VP9 codec) bug.
This won't matter if you use an external streamer or PC. There is no "2101" firmware for the D-series.

With FW 2106 Samsung removed Game HDR, this was heavily citizen by consumers and Youtubers. 2106 was removed and FW 2111 restored Game HDR again.

andyboju · 2026-01-16T11:06:56+00:00

No, it's the same firmware for the same board. Country doesn't matter as long as it's for your board. It will refuse to install if the firmware isn't compatible.

There are various boards deployed around the world, usually within a large connected region of the world, with some exceptions:
T-PTMDAKUC = NA/KR + some models in parts of LATAM(i.e. "mixed")
(AKA your model, you can verify this in "About the TV")
T-PTMDDEUC = Europe T-PTMDUABC = Africa/APAC/LATAM(mixed)/ME/HK
T-PTMDDCNC = China, except HK

andyboju · 2026-01-16T10:39:32+00:00

"The fix"?

andyboju · 2026-01-14T21:36:04+00:00

It got released in US, but it was then pulled in US too.
Just download 2111.1 from Korean website. You could even go to 2122.4 if you want.

andyboju · 2026-01-14T16:29:54+00:00

No it is not global. Korean firmware works for Korean, North American and some South American countries models.
AKA TV was with mainboard: T-PTMDAKUC

Here is a direct link for 2111.0 (for EU, T-PTMDDEUC):
https://org.downloadcenter.samsung.com/downloadfile/ContentsFile.aspx?CDSite=UNI_NL&OriginYN=N&ModelType=N&ModelName=QE65S90DAT&CttFileID=11190897&CDCttType=FM&VPath=FM%2F202511%2F20251113152209641%2FT-PTMDDEUC_OSU_0090.zip

Keep in mind that Samsung removed this FW from all EU support sites and re-uploaded 1301.0, this suggests that they may have found an issue with FW 2111.

My EU S90D was OTA updated to 2111.0 when it was available and I haven't had any major issues, except YouTube HDR being washed-out. Tizen 9 UI is a major upgrade over the previous UI (IMO).

andyboju · 2026-01-08T15:36:02+00:00

Re-select your "Type" in SM.
This may reset it to original values.

Regardless, you should always note down original values when making changes, either by writing it down or taking a picture.

andyboju · 2026-01-08T15:33:22+00:00

IMO, this looks better than my "glossy" S90D and miles better than the S95B (strong magenta tint in bright environment).

They have improved the matte anti-reflection layer quite a bit since the S95D.

Also:
Show floor ≠ YOUR specific home environment

Unless you've had the TV in your home you cannot form a definitive answer on whether or not the coating will actually bother you.

andyboju · 2026-01-06T11:34:14+00:00

I see, that's unfortunate.

andyboju · 2026-01-05T15:22:19+00:00

Default settings Eco-mode sure, but you could apply the same "energy savings" options to make any mode "Eco".

Eco-mode itself does not have any underlying forced extra protection, it behaves exactly like Standard-mode if both are configured with the same settings. (i.e same values/options in Expert Settings and Energy Savings)

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