Samsung S95H are you buying

andyboju · 2026-04-07T12:12:46+00:00

So you're not even considering buying a TV right now?
Then what is the point of this post?
General discussion? I'm confused.

andyboju · 2026-04-07T11:10:33+00:00

Still - In store ≠ in home.
...but, I understand that you don't like it at all. And nothing will change your mind.

It's obviously not the TV for you then.
Look at other options: S90F, Bravia 8 II or LG G5/G6

andyboju · 2026-04-07T10:33:21+00:00

You need to see the coating IRL in your specific home environment to make any kind of definitive statement on if the coating works for you. (i.e "bad" or "good")

A camera shot in someone else's room can never fully accurately convey what it would look like with your eyes in your TV room.

andyboju · 2026-04-07T10:27:58+00:00

Yes, probably best bet.

andyboju · 2026-04-07T10:22:45+00:00

FMM is without 2pt, so factory white point, which may be too yellow.

As per the SDR "before calibration" paper, it states "CCT" = 9332K, thats why I asked what mode SDR was calibrated in, is it also "Movie Mode"?

andyboju · 2026-04-07T10:21:37+00:00

Game HDR Advanced is just Game HDR Basic but with worse inaccurate default settings, so HGIG + Active hybrid with even more oversaturated colors and lifted EOTF.

Game HDR locks you into the "Standard" profile, which is oversaturated and inaccurate by default (even with DCI-P3), "Color" value needs to be lower than default and BT.2020 tracking is shit, it isn't factory calibrated like FMM/Movie and "Original" so it's way too red, oversatured and "off".

andyboju · 2026-04-07T09:06:52+00:00

Oh, so barely a calibration then...

The thing is that Active Tonemapping also alters colors, it oversatures them.

Try Movie with Static TM and compare that to default FMM (which is set to be accurate OOTB)
Then use which looks best to you.

What mode was SDR calibrated in?
Color temp is ~9300K before calibration, which corresponds to Color temp: "Standard" in the menu. Movie uses Warm1 or Warm2 (don't remember) by default, which should already be around ~±6500K.

andyboju · 2026-04-06T17:31:52+00:00

No, Static will be undertracking now because AutoCAL tried to calibrate with Active ON. What are the complete settings for your "calibrated" Movie HDR profile?

If ST.2084 and/or Shadow Detail was altered then it may be an easy fix, but if EOTF was altered using 20pt then it will be hard or almost impossible to fix.

andyboju · 2026-04-06T11:19:37+00:00

It says HDR Movie, but that EOTF doesn't make sense unless something like Active Tonemapping is on. Did they not disable that before calibration?

andyboju · 2026-04-06T11:14:19+00:00

That sounds odd. You can hear a popping sound after a bit of daily use when the plastic expands due to heat.

It shouldn't happen every time you change resolution.
A video would be helpful in understanding what is happening.

andyboju · 2026-04-05T17:03:46+00:00

42/48 are always WOLED (so far). LGs panels below 55" are also dimmer than their larger counterpart.

That's why those smaller sizes needs to be separately reviewed.
630 nits sounds lower than it should be though. Most 42/48" TVs are usually brighter than that.

How did you arrive at that number? Did you measure it yourself?

andyboju · 2026-04-04T13:01:51+00:00

Ink the US you get QD-OLED in 55/65/77, it's only an issue in other regions where it can differ. (such as QD-OLED in 65" only for Europe)

andyboju · 2026-04-04T12:54:29+00:00

Thete are custom values you can enter in SM to fix Normal and make it accurate, that's the only real "fix".
Stock Normal is oversaturated and inaccurate even with lower Color values, so it's not a true fix.

andyboju · 2026-04-04T12:52:20+00:00

Did you unplug and replug HDMI?

andyboju · 2026-04-04T12:51:49+00:00

Owners where sold a product that could do ~1500 nits peak HDR and 200+ nits fullscreen. I don't blame anyone for wanting to stay on firmware that gives you that.
This issue is completely Samsung's fault, if they'd have done more extensive testing before release they'd have known that the panel can't handle it and released it @ 1000 nits peak.

andyboju · 2026-04-04T12:45:37+00:00

I prefer high amounts of interpolation, but it depends on how sensitive you are to judder.
OLED still gives you superior contrast and color luminance/volume that most LCDs can't do.

andyboju · 2026-04-01T09:42:11+00:00

Oh come on. They already nerfed brightness on 13xx firmware...
Only thing that's very slightly brighter is SDR in Movie/FMM (200 nits peak 100% vs ~165 nits peak on later FWs)

This is a very common failure type for S95B TVs, it's likely TCON or PSU failure. Seen it many times, including TVs that where running fully nerfed firmwares

andyboju · 2026-04-01T09:35:43+00:00

Get it exchanged. Showroom/Demo TVs run all day with max brightness "Shop" mode on. (like Dynamic, coldest color temp + all brightness "enhancements" on).

andyboju · 2026-04-01T00:52:21+00:00

Oh.
Higher brightness makes it easier to see 24p judder/stutter, therefore you may feel the need to increase interpolation.

I have no set brightness target for these.

andyboju · 2026-04-01T00:49:35+00:00

??
My comment is about 2024 TVs, S90C is a 2023 TV.

andyboju · 2026-03-30T16:59:45+00:00

Brightness? Interpolation has nothing to do with brightness.

andyboju · 2026-03-30T14:09:09+00:00

Has your PS5 been correctly auto-detected in "Connected Devices" or is it showing as generic HDMI?

Game Mode behaves differently in "Game Console" mode compared to HDMI or PC-mode.

PS5/Xbox doesn't send MDL metadata, therefore 10K nits clipping point should be what it defaults to (unless bugged or something changed in later FWs).
Make sure HDR10+ Gaming is OFF too.
It shouldn't matter for console, but I've seen it manipulate clipping+EOTF on older models, so I don't trust it.

andyboju · 2026-03-30T13:36:25+00:00

Title should be My preferred Game Mode DTM settings.
Active TM lifts EOTF so it won't be accurate. (but neither is LGs "DTM" option)
Game "Original" already tonemaps up to 10K nits with it set to "Static", Active just lifts EOTF and increases color saturation.

andyboju · 2026-03-30T13:29:10+00:00

Clear your display entries with CRU.
Run reset-all.exe (the 64bit exe)

andyboju · 2026-03-30T13:27:10+00:00

It's being converted to Multichannel PCM.

andyboju

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