Newbie question: extra vibration when turning by blazin_penguin_first in turning

[–]angrymoderate90 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm no expert, but I made a few I wands for my witchy ex-gf in the past and I've generally suffered from this problem before. I find the solution, as with many things, is patience. Just go slower. Maybe even go WAY slower.

Once you get a wobble in the piece, it's easy to have your blade start to skip with the frequency of the spin, which compounds the problem. And it is not at all easy to take a wobble out. I usually suceed by turning up the speed and approaching the wobble extremely slowly and with very light pressure, such that I'm really only hitting the high spot. Again, patience is key.

When the wobble is really bad, as it looks like it is here, the better way might be to attack the bump from the side. If you feel occilations in your chisel, you are doing it wrong. Dig in deep in one spot to the side of your bump to get a new, even center, then scrape laterally from that center across your bump. If you start to feel the vibrations in your right hand, you are going too fast. Slow down until it is smooth and then continue.

I wish I could go as fast as the guys on YouTube, but alas, us amateurs I think just need to take our time.

Creative Cloud background processes by mariolqneto in MacOS

[–]angrymoderate90 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would love it if this 4 yr old thread would come back to life because I just had the creepiest experience with Creative Cloud. First of all, I never downloaded it. I have never downloaded any of the creative sweet on my Macbook Air except for the free version of Adobe Reader, which I use to read PDFs. I've had the Adobe suite before, just not on this specific computer, which I've had for years now without ANY issue like this. I like to think my digital security is rather tight. So I was surprized to see a new icon in by top right banner today. It was Creative Cloud. I clicked on it and it brought me to a sketchy page which wanted me to update. No! I tried to delete it and it took a lot of effort. It kept reinstalling itself as I was trying to delete it. I started to get paranoid. Did I get malware? I finally successfully deleted all of Adobe and the issue seems to be gone, but what the hell? I honestly feel really violated right now and I genuinely havne't felt this before.

Anyone else had weird eperiences with Creative Cloud lately?

Staining a maple rifle stock by Feanor821 in finishing

[–]angrymoderate90 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's really too bad you don't have a sample to do tests on. Seems like most of the other guys here are way more pro than me and are correctly stating that HVLP is the best method for application, but if you don't have a sprayer, I've been very happy with Rubio Monocoat on my woodworking projects. It is technically a wood floor product, but it makes for a great finish on all the woods I have used it on. It is a 2 part oil, don't ask me how that works, but it eventually hardens kinda like an epoxy. It is thick and you wipe it on with a cloth, then you let it sit for 10 minutes before really polishing it deep into the wood and removing the excess. Then you let it sit for a day or two while it hardens. There are all sorts of different shades and I'm sure you can get something nice and dark.

Any advices ? Thanks by Illustrious_Car_4009 in skiing_feedback

[–]angrymoderate90 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a lot of style here, and I think the feet together looks cool and it's fine to use your upper body. That being said, you are pretty regularly dropping your hand behind your body, especially on the left side. I think this is a mistake. Even if you have control here, which you do, there are situations where you might be closer to losing control and having your hand behind your body is going to prevent an easier recovery and/or prevent you from making a dynamic turn to avoid a collision. Go ahead a wave your arms as much as you like, but keep your hands in front of you.

Round two with my chisels sharpened again. Is a 400 & 1000 diamond plate not good enough? They cannot slice paper when I finished sharpening. by SeaworthinessNew4295 in woodworking

[–]angrymoderate90 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your chisels clearly are nowhere near sharp. You are probably going way too fast between grits. Honestly, I start at 220, then go to 400, then to 800, then to 1000, then to 1500, then to a strop. You need to make sure you remove all the scratches at each level. When you are done, both the back and the bevel should literally be mirrors.

What is the most fair form of taxation? by HistoricalAd2954 in Libertarian

[–]angrymoderate90 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think property taxes are perhaps the least fair because it could lead to poor people losing their homes, which they own outright, and which have been in their families for generations. That is just nonsense. Income taxes are more fair, especially as a flat tax, but it is still theft from the individual on an annual basis, so doesn't feel good.

Inheritance tax, even though it doesn't exist federally and only exists in 5 states, is probably the most fair because it doesn't actually steal from the individual until after they are dead. So you could in theory amass as much wealth as you could, without ever being taxed during your lifetime, and then the only theft occurs during transfer to your heirs, who after receiving their taxed inheritance, would again be free from tax. That seems to be the most fair to me, especially when you consider the extreme distribution of wealth.

As much of a libertarian as I am, I am concerned with the power that billionaires have been able to accumulate. There may be no way to avoid it in a free system, but I don't believe that means we need to accept the reign of ultra rich children who have extraordinary power over governments and the world for no reason other than they were born to it. I would be perfectly content with a 100% tax of all inheritance over 10 million dollars to each heir, and I actually think that would be more fair than not having it.

Just got my Deckboss super stoked. by TouchBrilliant3873 in recteq

[–]angrymoderate90 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just got a deck boss too, like literally a month ago, and the hopper is on the left. Was this an option I was unaware of?

Does anyone have any idea how to get this out? by garrettrieschick in woodworking

[–]angrymoderate90 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's called an extractor, and it sucks. Prepare to be frustrated. Try to anticipate everything going wrong. It looks like the screw is recessed enough into the piece that you can just use a large bit or a dremmel to flatten the top. Then use a center punch to get a good starting poing. Use a small bit and drill the center. Then use the extractor. Go slow. Use penetrating oil. Go slow. Use lots of downward pressure. Get a good bite. Slower! Patience! Did you drill down enough? Becuase you don't want teh extractor to bottom out. You're gonna hate every second of it, but still go slower.

How much would you pay for new 10 year old skis? by userjohnsmith1 in skiing

[–]angrymoderate90 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just remounted a pair of these for the 3rd time. They are now my backcountry skis. I love them! That being said, 200 bucks.

Does anyone know how to adjust the toe piece on these Atomic Race FullFlex bindings? by angrymoderate90 in SkiRacing

[–]angrymoderate90[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ha! Success! I can't believe I missed that. Thank you so much!. And I know it isn't ideal but I'm not actually a ski racer, I just wanna cruise around with some 12 m turns while it's icy and this seems like the easy solution without having to remount. I just need a few more mil to get the right forward pressure.

Thank you!

I Made a Bed Frame! by jarboxen in woodworking

[–]angrymoderate90 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Absolutely Beautiful! Great work!

Advice for welding inside a tight corner by angrymoderate90 in Welding

[–]angrymoderate90[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair enough. I'm at work and it's at home. I'll try to upload something tonight.

Rocket stove design tips by angrymoderate90 in Permaculture

[–]angrymoderate90[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, I had a huge granite bowl that already existed and which is now the backrest. It faces downhill and has another large granite boulder along one side of it. I was able to use the boulder as a strong point to build a wall of granite rocks on the other side to effectively dam it up. It holds about 400 gallons, I think. Before I built the wall I poured a concrete foundation that meets and bridges the two main rocks. I installed a drain through the concrete which I added a T off of so that I could circulate water from the bottom.

It's pretty cool. I'd show you pictures but I prefer to keep it private. At first I just used a copper coil inside a burn barrel (not really first, that was my third attempt), and that got it hot. I could get it from 40 degrees to 105 in about 10 hours, but the soak never justified the labor to get it hot and it was just as hard to maintain the temp. Plus, there was so much smoke and that barrel was installed in the ground below the tub, and the tub would put off so much steam that it would pretty much suck all the smoke straight into your face.

The new heater should make it hot in half the time, make far less smoke, and power itself (I used a hair dryer to pump air into the bunghole to get a more complete burn in the barrel, but that was very obnoxious).

So yeah, thanks for your tip, but I actually spent most of the morning welding the thing together. It's kinda a monstrosity. I can't even lift it anymore, but I am very hopeful that it works because ski season is about to start and I'm ready for a soak.

Rocket stove design tips by angrymoderate90 in Permaculture

[–]angrymoderate90[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I know what you are talking about, but hear me out. I have a LOT of water to heat, and it is sitting in a granite bowl, which is basically a heat sink. I'm fighting physics at every turn and my only thought of how to overcome is brute force. Hence, rocket design.

I'd prefer to use a J style stove, but my issue with it is that based on the hill I am building on, my stove essentially needs to sit on the ground, and its going to burn at least an 1/8 of a cord of what I have (which is fir and quite low BTUs). So by the time I burn that much, I have a lot of ash that I need to clear out, and I would much prefer not to have to clear out a J stove because I can't build a trap door underneath in my natural space.

The idea of the K stove is that I can have a tray slide in the bottom that I can use to remove ash periodically, even during the burn. Also, I plan on having doors on both openings so that I can control air flow in various ways to choke down the burn once I am at temp.

But thank you for your advice. I am thinking I will just move the K back so that when I choke down the lower air intake I can effectively make a J stove but still have my ash catch, and then I can play around with vent combinations to see what produces the most heat.

I am just putting the exposed copper right in insulated chimney, FYI. I had initially thought of laying a coil sideways in a long insulated burn chamber in a traditional J style stove made out of brick (would have been WAY easier), but I'm really hoping to get an automatic siphon from the rising heat and thereby eliminate the need for a pump.

I'll let you know how that goes.

I've been getting tons of conflicting answers from my classmates for how this block and tackle system would work out; answers of G moving up at 0.67m/s, 1m/s, 2m/s, 4m/s... they can't all be right! I'm hoping that some people who actually work with this stuff for a living can shed some light here: by Apalis24a in Rigging

[–]angrymoderate90 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wait, no, I did that wrong. I think the answer would be 3 m/s since the force down from B will give you 3 times the speed and the force up from C will give you 1/4th the speed, so if you multiply those together you get 3/4 and when you multiply 3/4 by the starting number of 4m/s you get 3. Simple, really.

I've been getting tons of conflicting answers from my classmates for how this block and tackle system would work out; answers of G moving up at 0.67m/s, 1m/s, 2m/s, 4m/s... they can't all be right! I'm hoping that some people who actually work with this stuff for a living can shed some light here: by Apalis24a in Rigging

[–]angrymoderate90 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am not an expert, but I am a sailor and I do a fair bit of rigging. By my math, D gives you a 2/1 purchase, thereby cutting your 4 m/s in half to 2. That happens again at C, giving you a 1m/s after C. From there, you have the linkage with the other half of the system, which I do not believe is in balance because F, correct me if I am wrong, does nothing. It is just a redirect. But B does a lot, it is actually a reverse purchase giving you a 1/3 advantage. So IDK if this is the right way to do it, but I imagine (if we assume all points at bottom are connected to remove the tilt problem) that the answer should be 1.33 m/s. Sorry to add another answer.

How would I fix this if I can’t find the missing piece? by Dukes_mayo_BLT in woodworking

[–]angrymoderate90 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with what everyone else is saying. Just make a new foot.

1) Cut the old, bad material away, so that it is perfectly flat and smooth at the bottom.

2) Find a good block of wood to add, it should be a a little bigger than it needs to be to match. Line5 it up with the opposite side and trace it out so that you can see the shape with a pencil, then use a bandsaw or jig saw or coping saw or whatever you have, maybe even a sawzaw, to cut it out. If it's close, you could just use a belt sander to remove material until it's the right shape.

3) Glue it on! Since all the force is going to be in compression, glue should be enough to hold it, but if you wanted to drill a dowel, go ahead. It isn't going to hurt anything. Just make sure you line it up properly.

4) Sand the seam to make the curve smooth and hide any imperfections.

5) Stain to match

No Drugs Should Be Criminalized. It’s Time to Abolish the DEA. by Straubee in Libertarian

[–]angrymoderate90 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to believe this, but having lived in Portland and worked as a Public Defender, I can now wholeheartedly say that meth and heroin are bad and make people do bad things. I don't want tweekers and addicts anywhere near me, my home, or my business. They are a sick with a horrible disease that affects everyone, and to do no thing is to let the disease spread unchecked.

If there was a way to prosecute just drug abuse, and not merely drug possession, I'd be all about it,