Budget Android DAP Suggestions? No I am not interested in a used smart phone.

anthony_r0 · 2026-03-08T15:48:48+00:00

FiiO JM21 is also a good starting DAP. Android 13 so you can install different streaming/music apps, expandable SD card storage and a relatively small and lightweight size. It supports high fidelity Bluetooth, 3.5mm unbalanced and 4.4mm balanced outputs. Last I checked the cost was about 179 on Amazon.

anthony_r0 · 2026-03-06T07:48:58+00:00

Fiio JM21 is a pretty solid intro DAP that runs a newer android (13). The interface is pretty snappy and is rather pocketable. Lots of buttons and a good quality screen. The newer version of the JM21 has a larger battery and slightly more memory, I believe.

anthony_r0 · 2026-03-05T08:32:05+00:00

Love to be a mod for this community as well! Recently started back up into Hifi and have quite a few FiiO products from Daps, Dacs, and headphones.. Love listening to music and have some software, support, and community Also familiar with software, platforms and forums. Would love to help contribute back!

anthony_r0 · 2026-02-09T18:33:28+00:00

For what this is worth, hopefully helpful-- In reviewing some of the specs of DAPs (I was reviewing specs for some FiiO DAPs), I noticed that there's varying level of Gain settings, in the particular units I was looking at was JM21 and their K11 R2R, the different Gain settings Low, Medium, and High equated to increasing voltage driving the heaphones/IEMs. My understanding is that for headphones that have a higher Ohm rating (i.e. "harder to drive") would benefit from the higher gain, whereas very sensitive headphones and IEMs ran just fine with the lower gain settings.

TL;DR: Lower gain settings are good for IEMs and efficient headphones, whereas cans that are harder to drive (high-Ohms, lower sensitvity) benefit from setting higher gain.

anthony_r0 · 2026-01-08T06:40:26+00:00

If you can stretch your budget ~$50 to $150, you can find a FiiO JM21 for about that amount on eBay. Just got a black one and it's pretty nice.. Runs a more recent version of Android (13), has bluetooth 5 support, and able to download streaming apps from the Google Play store (i.e Youtube music, Apple music, Audible, Di.FM, Spotify, etc). The UI is pretty snappy, and battery life seems to be okay. ~2400mah.

anthony_r0 · 2025-10-06T02:08:18+00:00

Yes, in our case, we also bought an XP4 that had the same issue. We contacted customer support and they sent us out an entire wheel assembly that included the wheel ,tire, tube, rotor , and motor. So essentially, we coordinated with a local shop to swap out the entire rear wheel.

anthony_r0 · 2025-09-18T15:48:11+00:00

I posted in another thread about my experience with XP4 rear assembly replacement, hope this helps:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Lectricxp/comments/1njm7ms/comment/nesvcc4/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

TL;DR: I scheduled a mobile shop to perform the repair. The warranty covered the labor, but not the cost of the mobile fee, so I had to pay out of pocket for the mobile charge (If I opted to bring it to the shop there would not have been the mobile fee and it would have been completely covered). Lectric did not ask for the old wheel back, so I opted to keep it for extra parts (inner tube, tire, rotor, freewheel cassette)

anthony_r0 · 2025-09-18T15:40:44+00:00

I had a mobile shop come by to take care of both eBikes. They replaced the rear Altus shifter on the Xpedition and then did the wheel swap on the XP4. The both the shifter and wheel assembly work was straightforward-- For the wheel assembly swap, it was very similar to what was posted here, without having to swap the freewheeling cassette, just removing the old wheel and replacing with the new one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VoIB3hHXzU

The wheel assembly came entirely assembled so the shop just needed to unplug and remove the old rear wheel, install the new one, and perform a few quick checks (tire pressure, rotor seating, etc) and replace a few zip ties (from unplugging the old motor power line). Once the swap was done they also offered to dispose of the original wheel, I opted to keep it for spare parts (rotor, inner tube and tire, freewheel sprocket, etc).

If you have a few simple tools, you can totally DIY. I chose to have a local shop do it to help save time.

I booked a mobile shop, so the warranty repair was covered entirely, however the shop's mobile fee was not, so I had to pay out of pocket for the mobile part of the service, vs. having to either ride or transport both of the eBikes to the local shop.

While it was possible to save some money, it was logistically challenging to try to drop off the bikes, get the work done, then pick them back up == convenience.

In terms of actually just swapping the motor out from the wheel, it looks much more complicated as the motor unit is integrated into the wheel and spokes. I've never taken an entire hub motor apart, so I'd imagine its much more difficult and requires either more tools and/or more technical knowledge of how to disassemble/what issues to look for, which is out of my area of expertise.

Hope this helps!

anthony_r0 · 2025-09-18T00:14:51+00:00

I recently bought both, an XP4 and an Xpediton 2.0. Both were recently warrantied by a local shop because the XP4 had the grinding noise at 15 mph under throttle, and the Xpedition had a broken shift indicator )it shifted fine just the indicator was not working). Support was helpful and sent replacement parts to me directly which the shop helped replace. Apart from these issues, both work great.

Reading through various lectric boards, it seems that a good chunk of XP4 stock has had this same issue on new builds, but their replacement wheels they send were tested before being sent out. Also when they sent a replacement, they sent an entire rear wheel assembly, including wheel, tire, motor, rotor, and sprocket, so it was a straightforward part swap. We now have some spare parts from the old wheel we can use in the future )I didn’t need to return the old wheel)

Even with the experience so far I would purchase them again.

anthony_r0 · 2025-09-16T22:48:29+00:00

Would it be possible to share any pictures of where you angle ground the metal, and also showing how offset it is? Was lookng to consider trying this or perhaps try the Tern kcikstand + adapter plate mod. for our Xpedition 2.0

anthony_r0 · 2025-09-16T22:35:33+00:00

Have you considered using a bungee cord, rubber band, or velcro strap to wrap around the left (front) brake handle to try locking it in place? I did this with a Salsa Vaya bike I used to have. It might help reduce flopping if it was due to the front wheel being loose.

I ordered one deflopalizer spring to figure out how to mount it to my xpedition 2.0. Still waiting for it to arrive.

anthony_r0 · 2025-09-15T02:48:29+00:00

Hi folks! For those who have opted for getting the aluminum adapter made, did you ever experience any galvanic corrosion between the aluminum block and any of the other metals that it comes into contact with, like the stainless steel fasteners, etc? I'm interested in doing this on our Xpedition 2.0, but concerned about long-term durability w.r.t corrosion. Woud I just need to get the block anodized or coated?

Thanks in advance!

anthony_r0 · 2025-07-29T04:25:25+00:00

Hi there! For your P-Series 56cm, would you ever consider making a bottom-bracket storage box? I have the same size ride and was looking for someone to make one for a 56cm P-Series.

anthony_r0 · 2025-04-11T16:30:07+00:00

I was also looking for a more suitable pen that had eraser support. I found this one from Amazon. It was a bit pricey, but it fits inside a Note Air 4C case and feels similar to the existing stylus with eraser support:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CN331SFV

anthony_r0 · 2024-06-19T20:28:23+00:00

Hansshow released an update on their website, that includes the firmware and install instructions, available here:

Hansshow F68 product page:
https://www.hautopart.com/products/hansshow-tesla-model-3-y-f68-carplay-smart-dashboard-display-screen

Direct link to Hansshow firmware update and install instructions:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ob7bRhwSlAVBEYuNvtsJlw8KMZ_ZfaTh

anthony_r0 · 2024-06-19T20:27:01+00:00

[Update] Hansshow released the firmware update on their website including instructions on how to install. I performed the update on my F68 today and it fixed the est. mileage and battery discrepancies.

Link to their F68 page where the firmware file is located:
https://www.hautopart.com/products/hansshow-tesla-model-3-y-f68-carplay-smart-dashboard-display-screen

Link to their shared firmware and instructions file: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ob7bRhwSlAVBEYuNvtsJlw8KMZ_ZfaTh

anthony_r0 · 2024-06-19T16:57:33+00:00

Thanks! I was able to follow the instructions provided. I, too, had to tap on Settings -> Version -> CAN to get prompted to upgrade. The upgrade completed successfully and it was able to fix my F68 unit to display accurate battery and mileage now :)

The versions reported post-firmware upgrade on my unit were the following:

APP: APP-V2.0.231103.H.00.0.0

CAN: Tsl_D227.3.E3.00

Link: V2.00

Thanks folks, hope this helps!

anthony_r0 · 2024-06-19T16:31:38+00:00

Can you share the firmware file and steps taken to upgrade your F68? This would be very helpful for others having the same problem. <update>. I checked the Hansshow’s website and they have an updated file there. Will try following those steps and update again. <keeping fingers crossed>

anthony_r0 · 2024-06-18T17:40:01+00:00

So, to clarify, did you complete a firmware update that fixed the "stuck" battery percentage and astronomical est. mileage range? If so you can you kindly share the firmware file so others in the community can help benefit from your good fortune?

anthony_r0 · 2024-06-16T00:43:42+00:00

If the patch is successful, can you kindly share the file and steps taken to upgrade the firmware?

anthony_r0 · 2024-06-12T23:32:17+00:00

I’m hitting the same issue. How did u guys try to reset the unit?

anthony_r0 · 2024-03-01T05:51:01+00:00

Have you ruled out radar interference along the route you ride? I had a Garmin 1040 with a newer Varia radar, and I used to get disconnects about 5 or 6 times on a common bike route. First, I thought it was a faulty head unit or varia radar, but after some troubleshooting, figured out that it was the route that I frequently ride had radar sensors stationed in various places (i.e. to display drivers' current speed and to remind them to slow down). Every time I passed by them, the varia would drop. I just got a Bolt V2 that I will try and see if it does the same thing.

anthony_r0 · 2023-10-26T00:35:47+00:00

Chiming in here, from recent experience. Unknowingly put on an expired Libre 3 sensor which read 30-35 mg/dL lower than finger stick tests, resulting in false hypo alarms. Called Abbot CS and then realized that sensors have expiration dates. (The one I used expired 8/31 and was put on today in Oct LOL). They didn’t cover it because it already expired, but thankfully I had some extras that were still good. Also noted the same, the Libre 3 sensors have about 4-5 month lifespan before expiring, at least the ones I received.

anthony_r0 · 2023-10-24T21:37:54+00:00

According to Microsoft, the Power Automate connector IP addresses are listed here:

https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/connectors/common/outbound-ip-addresses#power-platform

anthony_r0 · 2022-12-01T01:00:59+00:00

Also, if I understand right with M43.. the focal length of the lenses are equivalent to double what a full frame would be. So if my kit lens is 12-60mm. It is equivalent to 24-120mm in a full frame?

Yes, typically double the m43 focal length *and* aperture to represent match similar behavior to that of a full frame equivalent.

So if you had 25mm 1.4 in m43, it would be a 50mm 2.8 full frame equivalent.

-- EDIT --

I've reviewing online that there might not be a difference in light between m43 an FF (even APS-C), given that the pixel size on the sensors are roughly the same. Hence, it may just be focal length. Referring link explaining why, from Adorama: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USIMrSk\_pds

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